Carb'd Festiva no start/run

[Mike McKown]

I copied this post from a few months ago concerning "no start/run" problem on a carbed Festiva.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

ok, go to a McParts (Advance, Checkers, Pep Boys, etc) or SprawlMarx (WalMart) and buy yourself a cheapo test light (under $5).

Connect the alligator clip of the test light to a good ground (battery neg is best). Turn the key on, and touch the probe to the positive terminal of the coil. The positive terminal has three wires; black (electrical noise filter/capacitor), black/white (power to the ignition module in the dizzy) and black/yellow (power from the key switch). The test light should light when touching that post. If not, then you have a power issue from the ignition switch. Assuming the positive post lit the test light, touch the other post with the probe (should have white, yellow/green and blue wires). Test light will most likely lite up. Have a helper crank the engine, and watch the test light, it should flash rapidly. If the test light does not light at all, you have a bad coil or (bad) ignition module shorted to ground. To determine if its the coil or module, unplug the blue wire from the negative terminal. Touch the neg post of the coil with the probe again. If it lites now, you have a shorted module. If it still does not lite, you have a bad (open) coil. If it lites but does not flash, you have a bad ignition module. The ignition module is inside the distributor, and can be difficult to replace. But, it is still available.

.................................................. .................................................. ...............

I followed the directions, determined I had a bad ignition module because I couldn't get the test light to flash on the minus (-) side of the coil while cranking the engine, either with or without the blue wire connected to the coil. The test light stayed on without flashing.

So, I bought another distributor off a forum member here that was represented as good. Installed it. Same thing. Won't start. No flashing light on the test light at the minus side of the coil. It acts just like the original distributor.

I take my old ignition module to O'Reilly Auto and have it tested. It tests good on all tests. Twice.

That only leaves the pickup coil. Or does it? How do I test it?

Any ideas?

[Sparky]

There is a procedure in the Haynes manual to test them using resistance...it gives the values you should get testing from the three contacts...I'll see if I can dig that up.

[Sparky]

Straight from Haynes:

Primary (the two contacts on the outside) should read .8 to 1.6 ohms

Secondary (the center contact and either of the other two) should read 6 to 30 k-ohms

If the figures are incorrect, replace the coil.

[Mike McKown]

Thanks, but I think you're referring to the ignition coil. Checking the magnetic pickup coil that wraps around the distributor shaft and plugs into the ignition module is the one I was referring to.

The distributor for some reason is not breaking the primary circuit.

[Sparky]

Sorry....going back and re-reading your post, I am smacking my forehead and saying "DOH!"

[Mike McKown]

Sorry....going back and re-reading your post, I am smacking my forehead and saying "DOH!"

No need to apolgize. I'm going "duh" 'cause I'm apparently not smart enough to fix it on my own.

[hofficergrover]

that distributor is good it came off my runing carbed motor i pulled out a month ago so it is good so some thing isnt because it ran good on my motor im not sure of your problem so i aint any help but that distributor is good.

[Mike McKown]

that distributor is good it came off my runing carbed motor i pulled out a month ago so it is good so some thing isnt because it ran good on my motor im not sure of your problem so i aint any help but that distributor is good.

You said it came off a running engine. That's why I bought it. I'm not complaining about your distributor, I'd just like to find the problem and fix it.

However, when the distributor arrived, it did have the wire that goes to the computer ripped off, not in the can, and one terminal and the vent were broken off the cap.

[Mike McKown]

I copied this post from a few months ago concerning "no start/run" problem on a carbed Festiva.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

ok, go to a McParts (Advance, Checkers, Pep Boys, etc) or SprawlMarx (WalMart) and buy yourself a cheapo test light (under $5).

Connect the alligator clip of the test light to a good ground (battery neg is best). Turn the key on, and touch the probe to the positive terminal of the coil. The positive terminal has three wires; black (electrical noise filter/capacitor), black/white (power to the ignition module in the dizzy) and black/yellow (power from the key switch). The test light should light when touching that post. If not, then you have a power issue from the ignition switch. Assuming the positive post lit the test light, touch the other post with the probe (should have white, yellow/green and blue wires). Test light will most likely lite up. Have a helper crank the engine, and watch the test light, it should flash rapidly. If the test light does not light at all, you have a bad coil or (bad) ignition module shorted to ground. To determine if its the coil or module, unplug the blue wire from the negative terminal. Touch the neg post of the coil with the probe again. If it lites now, you have a shorted module. If it still does not lite, you have a bad (open) coil. If it lites but does not flash, you have a bad ignition module. The ignition module is inside the distributor, and can be difficult to replace. But, it is still available.

.................................................. .................................................. ...............

I followed the directions, determined I had a bad ignition module because I couldn't get the test light to flash on the minus (-) side of the coil while cranking the engine, either with or without the blue wire connected to the coil. The test light stayed on without flashing.

So, I bought another distributor off a forum member here that was represented as good. Installed it. Same thing. Won't start. No flashing light on the test light at the minus side of the coil. It acts just like the original distributor.

I take my old ignition module to O'Reilly Auto and have it tested. It tests good on all tests. Twice.

That only leaves the pickup coil. Or does it? How do I test it?

Any ideas?

Anybody?????????????????????

[Ogrekhan]

Hey,

Had same problem as this on an escort awhile ago and it was the pick up coil. I used this info to test and it failed , also failed test at oreillys. New replacement and zoom zoom. Not a very spendy part either round 25$ if i remember correctly. info below.

The pick up coil is quite possibly the whole problem. Here's how you test it. Measure the resistance across the pick-up coil terminals. It should read between 900 to 1,200 ohms. If it's not within specification, replace the pick-up coil and igniter assembly.

Oh and also you can test for a pulse output from the pickup coil. Use a volt meter on low setting like 2 volts should pulse over 1 volt . 12 volt test light wont work due to the low volt output.
Hope this helps.

[Mike McKown]

Hey,

Here's how you test it. Measure the resistance across the pick-up coil terminals. It should read between 900 to 1,200 ohms. If it's not within specification, replace the pick-up coil and igniter assembly.

Oh and also you can test for a pulse output from the pickup coil. Use a volt meter on low setting like 2 volts should pulse over 1 volt . 12 volt test light wont work due to the low volt output.
Hope this helps.

Since I'm a points/condenser type of guy, I'm somewhat electrically challenged with procedures and terminology of this newer stuff. I have a few questions.


First, when you say pickup coil, are you referring to the gadget the ignition module plugs into that wraps around the distributor shaft? How is that removed?

Second, when you do this "pulse test", how is it performed? Where do you hook the leads? I have a digital voltmeter.

What is an "igniter" assembly and where is it located?

Thanks for the help.

[Ogrekhan]

The pick up coil is quite possibly the whole problem. Here's how you test it. Measure the resistance across the pick-up coil terminals. It should read between 900 to 1,200 ohms. If it's not within specification, replace the pick-up coil and igniter assembly.

^^ The above portion of my post was a copy past from info I looked up from when I fixed the escort. Ignore the igniter assy bit.

First answer yes thats what I'm referring to and if its like the escort a few screws will remove it.

Second answer pulse test performed with someone turning over the engine for you with probes contacting the terminals of the pickup coil.

Actually I haven't had this prob with a festy yet , however I have an 89 carbed parked outside so I'll hustle out while I still have a little light and see what that looks like.

[Mike McKown]

[QUOTE=Ogrekhan;233675
Second answer pulse test performed with someone turning over the engine for you with probes contacting the terminals of the pickup coil.

[/QUOTE]

You can't really do this with a festiva as the pickup coil plugs into the module with no access to the contacts.

[Ogrekhan]

Hey ,

Yeah I just got a brief look at mine and your right. Did you perform the resistance test on it? Sorry I'm not more help man. Your process of elimination seems sound though my moneys on the pickup coil.

[Mike McKown]

Hey ,

Yeah I just got a brief look at mine and your right. Did you perform the resistance test on it? Sorry I'm not more help man. Your process of elimination seems sound though my moneys on the pickup coil.

I'm out of town. Be back home tommorrow. I'll do the resistance check then on the pickup coil.

Thanks for the help.