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Alright, I've been searching around this thread and I still have some questions about my problem. The car will turn over, but the spark plugs wouldn't fire when I pulled them out (even when I touched them to a ground). So, I researched on here and found that the ignition module is the most common failed part. Changed it this morning, still doesn't work. I have a circuit tester from Sears that lights up when it comes in contact with 12V, so I tested the connection to the ignition module. The yellow/green wire has voltage whenever the key is "on". The black wire doesn't getting anything (probably because it's a ground?). The blue wire never gets anything either, even when I crank it. The wiring diagram says this wire goes back to the ECU. Is there a way to check and make sure there isn't anything else wrong with it?
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check the distributor before your ECU.
-"Hairlipstiva" 1991 GL 5spd (swapped from an auto), rolling on Enkei 14x6 +38 with 195/45/14 Toyo's, Jensen MP5720 CD deck, tach install, LED strip in cluster, down position rear wiper, FMS springs, Gabriel shocks on 4 corners, Acura Integra short shifter
-Escort GT 91 donor car with BP, G5M-R tranny to be dropped in the little guy...
-Aspire brake swap COMPLETE!
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Sounds like a good idea...how would I do that? I put the circuit tester into the outlet from the coil and got no voltage, even when cranking...would this be the best way to tell?Comment
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Maybe this thread will help you.
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Yep, I read that one, but I was sort of confused. First, my coil only has two wires (black and black/yellow), and second...how did you disconnect only the blue wire? Electrical stuff is sort of my weakspot so I don't really know for sure how to tackle a lot of this stuff.Comment
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I unhooked the blue wire because I have a different coil than you.
O'Reilly can check your ignition module. You can resistance check the pickup coil as described.Comment
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I got a new ignition module from Advance (we don't have an O'Reilly here, and they don't have a tester for Festiva modules), so hopefully that rules it out. Just to make sure everything is clear...I need to check the pickup coil for ohm's, right? If it's 0 ohms, or barely any, the pickup coil is bad, correct? What would be a good way to test the ignition coil and the distributor?
Sorry for all the questions, as I said electrical stuff is sort of my weakspot.Comment
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Originally posted by Illogical View Post
The poster in the other thread said 900-1200 ohms resistance. I have no idea how much you can vary from that but as I said in that thread, my pickup had no resistance. Any coil ought to have some amount of resistance unless it has an open circuit which makes it defective.
I'd check that pickup coil before I committed to the module. $$$$$$$$$$Comment
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alright, I bought a cheap multimeter and hooked it to the plugs on the distributor...the 2nd closest pin only had 6 ohms, but the rest were only about 600-650, so I guess all the pins were bad, but especially that one. So, I ordered a new one, should be here on Thursday...I'll keep you guys updated.Comment
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I believe you have to remove the pickup coil/module from the distributor, separate the two and then probe the two pickup coil connectors.
It might be better if somebody that knew more than I to guide you through this.Last edited by Mike McKown; 06-02-2009, 06:07 PM.Comment
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Update: Despite finding only 6 Ohms in one of the pins for the pickup coil, leading to a new distributor, that still hasn't fixed the problem. Only ignition parts left are the coil, ignition switch, and the ECU. Any suggestions on how to check them? Also, according to the factory manual, there's a "power relay" that looks like it's between the battery and the driver's headlight...would that have anything to do with it?Comment
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Alright, I checked the resistance on the ignition coil and got 0 ohms from one to the other. That means no continuity...right? So a bad coil...right?Comment
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The coil consists of a primary wiring from + to -terminal, it is a small gauge and has lots of turns, if the needle on your meter points to 0 that means continuity, however that does not mean the coil is OK, what it can mean is the coil winding is intact but may or may not have shorted turns, someone in here will know the specified resistance for the HT leads, they can be faulty because when people replace the spark plugs they pull the HT leads off by pulling on the leads themselves and it can break the carbon fibre inside the insulation."all I ask is the chance to prove that money won't make me happy":simon:Comment
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UPDATE finally! Took the car into a local shop and they scratched their heads and replaced the same parts that I'd already changed, so I got it towed back today. So, my friend disconnects the MAF sensor (ontop of the airbox) and it now starts. It even idles sometimes, until I reconnect the plug. Does this automatically mean bad MAF sensor?Comment
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