Ignition/Sparkplugs

[clintorino]

I have an 1989 Festiva L, Well, after putting a lot of time and effort into diagnosing hesitations with my car, I finally took it to a shop and they said that it was running back and fourth between 4 to 3 cylinders because of problems the ignition system was causing. They said that it was making the plugs and the wires bad... and it would eventually get down to working only 2 cylinders = will not run. They wanted to charge me $450 to fix... Is it worth it? Also if I just changed the plugs and wires would this work as a temporary solution or wouldn't it have any effect on the situation. Please let me know what you think or what options I have.

[batstiva]

What precisely did they say was going wrong in the ignition system? Switch? Disty? Coil? Anything? Yes, in the short term, new plug wires might help. Curious if the shop even knows what they're going to replace/repair, or if they're just guessing.

[Mike McKown]

What were they planning to do for you for your $450?

[clintorino]

I did not get the full description from them yet. I just dropped off the car this morning and its still there. It seems like they wanted to replace the ignition and everything that connected the ignition to the engine all the way up to the spark plugs and wires. I have to admit i am not looking to spend much money, just enough to get the car by for 3 more months. Should i just scrap this project and sell as is, or do you think if i got them to replace my plugs and plugwires, this would help the performance a little? Let me know what you think.

They also told me my engine fan was dead. Is replacing a radiator fan for an 89 festiva costly and is it a difficult job to do yourself? Let me know what you think on this also.

[batstiva]

So, they really have no idea what's causing the problem. They just threw out a total, and now they'll change parts until they hit the magic number??
No offense, I think I'd be taking the car somewhere else. As far as the fan goes, not that big a deal to change out. No idea what a j/y fan would go for.

Was reading through your other thread about this car and I have a stupid question. Before they change out everything under the sun, have you actually changed the plugs, wires, cap, and button yet? The hesitation you're talking about sounds like what Batstiva had for a while. Gave her a tune up, changing all of the above, and she ran like a scalded dog afterwards. If you've already done this, then feel free to ignore this advice. Unclear in previous posts. Also, if you do pull the cap, pay attention for oil in the cap. This would indicate a bad disty gasket/seal and would cause the same hesitation/studdering that you seem to be having.

Let us know what happens. And if the shop won't give you any indication of what they're going to change, then take the care to someone who will. They sound a little too much like parts changers, and not mechanics to me.

[clintorino]

I m considering just changing my plugs and wires myself and see what happens. Obviously it sounds like it isn't a vacuum problem and the issue between the ignition and everything connecting up to the spark plug (fouling). Also, can you please clarifiy what you mean by "Button?"

[batstiva]

Rotor button inside the disty cap. It's what rotates when the car is running, and fires the plugs in their proper order.

[JPT]

$450?!? Does that come with gold plated spark plugs? Take it somewhere else.

[TominMO]

I m considering just changing my plugs and wires myself and see what happens. Obviously it sounds like it isn't a vacuum problem and the issue between the ignition and everything connecting up to the spark plug (fouling). Also, can you please clarifiy what you mean by "Button?"

Do one thing at a time to try to isolate the issue. If you can't, then at least you will know what it isn't. Come back here for advice before shelling out bux to these crooks.

By all means change the wires first; then go to the plugs if that didn't cure it (you should pull the plugs anyway to check 'em out). Then disty cap and rotor. If none of that cures it, come back here for further advice.

[clintorino]

They said i needed a major tune up. They said that there were no vacuum leaks. What i need to do is after having the Diagnostics done, i needed to replace Plugs, wires, Dist Cap, Rotor and fuel filter. They said that after i had that fixed, it should not hesitate anymore. Does this sound about right in order to fix the hesititation issue?? So before agreeing, I changed the plugs and wires myself, however it is still hesitating (sort of feels like its hesitating a little more than before) . Anyways, So should i have the dist cap and rotor replaced? How would this change its performance in regards to severe hesitation when i am not hammering on the gas every time i shift the car?

[TominMO]

They said i needed a major tune up. They said that there were no vacuum leaks. What i need to do is after having the Diagnostics done, i needed to replace Plugs, wires, Dist Cap, Rotor and fuel filter. They said that after i had that fixed, it should not hesitate anymore. Does this sound about right in order to fix the hesititation issue?? So before agreeing, I changed the plugs and wires myself, however it is still hesitating (sort of feels like its hesitating a little more than before) . Anyways, So should i have the dist cap and rotor replaced? How would this change its performance in regards to severe hesitation when i am not hammering on the gas every time i shift the car?

No way a major tuneup costs $450.

Make sure your plug gaps are good, and that the wires are all the way on. I know it's possible to shrink the plug gap if it is bumped into the block during installation.

Cap and/or rotor might just be worn, and therefore need replacing. Never hurts and it's cheap to do, and this way you know what's been done when. That just leaves the fuel filter, which you can also do yourself. So it sounds like you don't really need them for anything.

Total cost, about $50. Satisfaction at doing it yourself and saving $400, priceless.

If you also have a coil issue, you can get one from a JY (maybe Aspire ones work too? IDK), another member, or buy the one from Jeg's that I use (see my post, "MPG Run the Fourth").

[batstiva]

^^ What he said. Fuel filter, literally, should take 5 minutes to change. Having read other posts in here, tho, might take a minute to look at the fuel line between the filter and the tank, just to make sure it's not breaking down inside. Cap and button, and make sure the timing is correct.

So, what are we looking at here, $100, maybe, in parts, $350 in labor??
I'm in the wrong line of work. :shock:

[clintorino]

I have to admit, i do not know anything in regards to the distributer cap, rotor and button and how they work, what is why i am hesitating to replace it myself. In addition, do you believe this would be the cause of my hesitations? I am still hell bent on it being a vacuum issue.

[Mike McKown]

I thought I posted here that your accelerator pump might be weak in the carb. Guess not as I don't see it. That's a possibility as is slow timing.

Go to Auto Zone web site and read the menu. You punch in the part and they'll show you an exploded view of the part you selected plus other related parts. It's easy to understand if you see an exploded view.

[batstiva]

I thought I posted here that your accelerator pump might be weak in the carb. Guess not as I don't see it. That's a possibility as is slow timing.

Go to Auto Zone web site and read the menu. You punch in the part and they'll show you an exploded view of the part you selected plus other related parts. It's easy to understand if you see an exploded view.

You did. Here it is. http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...t=22722&page=3

Good advice on the exploded view thing. Really helps to see how everything goes together.