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  • dome light problem

    I have a 93 Festiva. I have only had it few weeks and when I got it the dome light didn't work,so I replaced the bulb and checked the fuse and it was good.Is there a common problem that I need to look for, or is it just trial and error?
    Justin Craig Paola Kansas my 4 passions, demolition derby,Ford 2.3s, my festiva and my kids

  • #2
    check the door switches in the B pillar( the pillar which your latch striker plate is on)

    the switches ground to the body when door is opened thus turning on dome light



    I am the original

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    • #3
      I have the same issue.
      Why wouldn't the switch on the dome light work when the doors are shut then.

      1993 Festiva L, aspire swapped, selling parts for a BP+T build.

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      • #4
        yes my switch doesn't work in either position
        Justin Craig Paola Kansas my 4 passions, demolition derby,Ford 2.3s, my festiva and my kids

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        • #5
          I had this problem... The contacts in there are loose. If you can solder good, make sure they are all on solid. Also, dirt gets between the ball and contact point on the switch itself. You can use some sand paper on these areas, and it helps sometimes. I ended up replacing it with a dome light from a Mercury tracer, but that would be up to you.
          The normal is not always normal... MOST is not ALL... And any job can be hard if you don't have the right tools!!!

          My Fleet:
          89 L 4spd (Daily Driver(if it isn't broke down)) "Spanky"

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          • #6
            mine is a different dome light, so it must be something in the car

            1993 Festiva L, aspire swapped, selling parts for a BP+T build.

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            • #7
              the domelights are POS, even when the door jam switches work, sometimes the damn light still buggers out, fix the door jams and go do the escort dome light swap as explained at http://65.110.247.249/wiki/index.php...ome_Light_Swap
              1997 Ford Aspire, MTX, Teal, B3E - "Trusty"
              1997 Ford Aspire, MTX, Red, B3E - "Eggy" (RIP)
              1989 Ford Festiva LX, ATX, Maroon, B3E - "TBK" (RIP)
              1991 Ford Festiva GL, ATX, Red, B3E - "Festiva GT" (RIP)

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              • #8
                O.K. been there already. What was wrong with mine were the little rivets that hold the conductors. Where I work they have conductive epoxy and I coated the joints with the conductive epoxy and it now works great. I actually think the plastic base shrinks after a while allowing the once intimate contact of the conductors to loosen up. I guess the epoxy they use to fix rear window defroster grids would work also. If you are careful you might be able to compress the rivets with some small sokets and a C-clamp or vise to tighten them up again. Of course to do any of this you will need to remove the unit from the car. Which might make the aforementioned replacement an easier option. Good Luck!

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                • #9
                  ok thanks I know that the door switches are good because I used a test light and had power when doors are open also when I accidentally pushed the bulb up too far the light came on and the buzzer came on but wouldn't go off until I removed the bulb
                  Justin Craig Paola Kansas my 4 passions, demolition derby,Ford 2.3s, my festiva and my kids

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                  • #10
                    Yeah easier to just do the dome light swap. Youll have maplights then as well.
                    Search Master - Honorary Member of Midwest Festiva Inc., Gulf Coast Chapter

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                    • #11
                      ok thanks that seems like a better option thanks for the help
                      Justin Craig Paola Kansas my 4 passions, demolition derby,Ford 2.3s, my festiva and my kids

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