Engine won't start

[Mike McKown]

Not only that, it won't even try to act like it will start.

I bought a non-running car. It had a cracked head. I replaced the head, did a valve job on it and re-installed.

Looking at the cam gear, the timing marks are at 12 and 3 o'clock per the manual. This was set with the #1 piston at TDC verified by a dial indicator. Distributor rotor points to #1 plug at TDC. Coil, ignition module and condenser came off a running car. There is spark at all four plugs with them laying on the valve cover. New plugs. Primed cylinders with gas several times. The engine just turns over without any sign of firing.

A couple of side thoughts. If I advance the timing all the way in the slot, the engine will try to kick back on the starter which is an indication the cylinders must be firing. The other thing is compression is 120, 90, 90, 90. That's with dry cylinders. I don't think that is the problem as many V-8's will run with that low compression.

What am I missing?

[TominMO]

Not only that, it won't even try to act like it will start.

I bought a non-running car. It had a cracked head. I replaced the head, did a valve job on it and re-installed.

Looking at the cam gear, the timing marks are at 12 and 3 o'clock per the manual. This was set with the #1 piston at TDC verified by a dial indicator. Distributor rotor points to #1 plug at TDC. Coil, ignition module and condenser came off a running car. There is spark at all four plugs with them laying on the valve cover. New plugs. Primed cylinders with gas several times. The engine just turns over without any sign of firing.

A couple of side thoughts. If I advance the timing all the way in the slot, the engine will try to kick back on the starter which is an indication the cylinders must be firing. The other thing is compression is 120, 90, 90, 90. That's with dry cylinders. I don't think that is the problem as many V-8's will run with that low compression.

What am I missing?

You have spark, fuel and air; all that's left is ignition timing and valve timing.

If the timing belt was off a tooth or two, it would probably still start but run poorly. So that's probably not it.

Ignition timing. Two immediate things to check:
1. the plug wires are in their proper places on the disty, and go to the proper cylinders.
2. apparently the disty rotor can be put on several different ways. Try them all.

[Mike McKown]

Wires are 1, 3, 4, 2 on the cap going CCW. When the timing marks are up, the rotor is pointing at #1 cap terminal.

[GenevaDirt]

way to low of compression

[FestYboy]

should see at least 130psi cold and 180+ at op temp.

[mechanicaldj]

i suggest a few squirts of ATF in each cylinder and re-doing the compression check