need help (cranks but wil not start)

[murrillcg]

Ok, heres my dilemma. I rerouted my throttle cable yesterday due to the bolt hole in the valve cover being stripped. I started the car and it ran for about 15-20 minutes, then suddenly died and will not start. I replaced the fuel filter, which the old one was full of crap and installed upside down somehow, but still will not start. I am gett in fuel threw the new filter. I havent checked to see if the pulgs are fouled due to a sudden rain shower, but does anyone have any ideals what i could try?

[eurotiva]

Check spark. If there is no spark then you need an ignition control module, located in the dizzy.

[murrillcg]

thanks, i will try that when the weather lets up. i have one more question. I believe the old fuel filter was installed upside down. The old filter had the flanged end up,, which is labeled (IN). According to the Haynes manual the flanged end is installed facing down which is also labeled (IN), so that is the way that I installed the new filter. Am I the idiot or is the person that installed the old filter the idiot?

[NovaSS]

Dont know about the filter but I agree on first testing for a spark, start at a plug , if you have a spark good, if not work you way back to the coil and check the fuse box
, I think there is a fuse for the igntion system.


If you are getting fuel and spark the timing belt may have jumped.
You have to start pulling covers to check this part of the timing.

anytime I buy a new car I go on ebay and find a factory service manual for it, saves a bunch of time and you can get them cheaper then an oil change.

[eurotiva]

The "IN" side should be hooked to the line that runs to the tank. "out" should hook to the line that runs up to the fuel rail.

[murrillcg]

when i took the old filter off and blew threw it, the fuel that came out was almost black. The car ran with the filter installed backwards. it took a while to pick up speed, but it ran.

[eurotiva]

They are made to work in one direction, and it's a good thing to replace it. My motto is don't overlook the obvious. So good catch there and keep looking around. You may find something else wrong.

[murrillcg]

ok, the rain let up for a while so i got out to see if there was spark, and no spark. So instead of paying close attention to what was said, i pulled the ignition coil instead of the modular. Went to a couple parts store to buy one and found out that they were quite expensive ($175.00 at one and $119.00 at the other). Well they were able to test that and it was good. So i got back home and pulled the distributor cap and the looks like I need to replace the cap and rotor. How do I check the ignition modular to make sure its good. Also, one of the stores I stopped at cannot order just the modular, i have to get the whole distributor which is $152.00.

[batstiva]

^^ Just checked Advance Auto's website, with a 1988 Festiva LX as my car. There are a bunch of coils on there for 30 - 40 bucks. And they list the ignition control module as a separate part, and it is pricey. 144.00!! At which point, if you can get the new disty with the module for 150.00, you might as well do that.

Anybody near him with a known good FI disty he could swap in as a test?

D'oh, should have read your post more carefully. So your coil is good, have you had a chance to see if you've got spark to the disty cap? You mentioning the rain makes me think you might have had a cracked cap.

[murrillcg]

I got spark from the coil, but no spark to the plugs. I pulled the cap and the rotor had quite a bit of cardon build up. I scrapped most of it clean, and it acted like it wanted to start, but then nothing. I am going to go get a new cap and rotor and try again tomorrow due to the rain. If thats not it, i am assuming it will be the ignition modular like stated by eurostiva.

^^ Just checked Advance Auto's website, with a 1988 Festiva LX as my car. There are a bunch of coils on there for 30 - 40 bucks. And they list the ignition control module as a separate part, and it is pricey. 144.00!! At which point, if you can get the new disty with the module for 150.00, you might as well do that.

Anybody near him with a known good FI disty he could swap in as a test?

D'oh, should have read your post more carefully. So your coil is good, have you had a chance to see if you've got spark to the disty cap? You mentioning the rain makes me think you might have had a cracked cap.

[Pu241]

Before you pay money for a new igniter or distributor try this:

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22235&highlight=Tester

If you have bad wires or a cracked cap.
Have someone else crank over the the engine (you may well have to charge the battery if you've been cranking it very much) and look for arcing.
If that doesn't produce results.
Grab the wires and cap one at a time while someone cranks the engine.
You'll be the first to know when you find high voltage leaking off.
My bet is on bad wires or a cap.
Bad wires absorb moisture and fail to carry the spark to the plug.

[m715]

is your LX a Automatic or 5 Speed? Yes, the modules are a common problem. I keep a spare with me at all times (no kidding). The filter should sit with the connections up in the wire cage that holds it in place if you have the MTX with the raised semi circlular side toward the fender ( inlet side from tank) outlet pointed toward passenger side ( to fuel pump).
If you do have the Fuel Injected 89 ATX car, as I remember mine, it only hooks up one way on that can filter. Also, if you do decide that it is a disributor/module, and you have the Automatic car, you MUST make sure to keep your distributor, and install a new module in it. The 89 only ATX distributor's advance system provides 2 degrees more spark advance using different weights inside the dist body. You will really miss that if you get a replacement, because the parts houses don't distiguish between the MTX & ATX distributors, and you would likely get the common MTX type, your core with the correct weight set gone forever. I use that ATX dist as a hop up part on my MTX cars, and it makes a difference!

Michael

[sanjeet]

I'm from New Zealand and have a carby version, my call would be to get a guaranteed second hand dizzy from an auto wrecker, replacing the module from my memory is very fiddly and remember having to remove the magnet rotor from the dizzy to get the module out, the modules are a real pain and can do some strange things but a jumped timing belt is also a possibility but do the basics first and check you have a spark at the coil, check all the connections are good look at the terminal posts on the coil and make sure all the spade connectors are connected (I got caught once with a loose spade connector).

If you are giving the ignition system an overhaul best to replace the leads as well, the carbon leads can cause problems and that is mostly due to removing them by pulling on the lead on not on the rubber boots, check the vacuum lines to the distributor for cracks and also you can check if the vacuum advance unit is working by sucking on the top connection port.

some times it is a very simple problem but get the ignition system sorted before looking for something else, check you have no white powdery stuff in the wiring terminals and that includes the spark plug leads and dizzy cap

[murrillcg]

got spark

I want to start off by saying thanks to Mike McKown for coming over and giving me hand with my festiva. I have only been active on here for a few days and for someone to come out of thier way to help a complete stranger says alot for the guys on here. THANKS MIKE!!!!

Anyways, we found out that I was getting spark from the dissy, but due to Mikes keen eye, he saw that the none of my belts were truning, but this was only sometimes. So tomorrow I will need to check if the wooddriff key on the crankshaft is broke or sheared. Does anyone have any other sujestions, and know what if any kind of internal damage might I be looking at?

[NovaSS]

the 1.3L is a non-interference motor , that means even if the timing belt breaks you will not damage the engine.