Well, the weekend has come to replace the clutch in my festy. Not looking forward to it since its my first time taking out a trans, but im confident it wont be as bad as i think. Any hidden tricks or things to watch out for that i should know about?
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Not really it's pretty straight forward.-Greg
Euro-bprt...WORLDS FASTEST FESTIVA !!! 11.78@115.9
BP, G trans, Megasquirt/ 550cc inj. t3/t3 (tbird) Garrett, REAR TURBO!!!! AND AC!!!!
Redneck Engineer
FOTY - '09
5x Festiva Madness Attendee...FM 3,4,5,6,8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LpCZ7...9Pwqw-oe8s2OYQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vU_eX...9Pwqw-oe8s2OYQ
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There is a ten millimeter bolt hiding for the flywheel cover near the radiator, use something to hold the spider gears in place with something, anything, even a wooden dowel will do, when you remove the LCA's, if you remove them from the body first, the ball joint slides out of the steering knuckle easier, To remove the CV joint bolt, at the wheel, have a buddy step on the brakes while you break it loose, the weight of the car is not enough to keep the wheel from turning, remove the entire speedo assembly, not just the cable, if you lose the plastic ring inside, you will be posting a {WTB} post, and prolly will do it wrong, and get yelled at , don't use a "pickle fork" to remove the tie rod end, it will bust the boot, and I personally use 80w-90 to fill it, not the (now) recommended atf.
The last is a personal preference
Did I miss anything?Contact me for information about Festiva Madness!
Remember, FestYboy is inflatable , and Scitzz means crazy, YO!
"Like I'm going to suggest we do the job right." ~Fecomatter May 28 2016.
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Originally posted by scitzz View Post
Did I miss anything?
Just the other 10mm bolt hiding on the aluminum plate on the back of the motor.....these will keep the tranny from coming out, they will hold the plate between the motor and flywheel. I think it is alot easier to remove the engine cooling fan before starting this, It gives you alot more room to work.....my .02$-Greg
Euro-bprt...WORLDS FASTEST FESTIVA !!! 11.78@115.9
BP, G trans, Megasquirt/ 550cc inj. t3/t3 (tbird) Garrett, REAR TURBO!!!! AND AC!!!!
Redneck Engineer
FOTY - '09
5x Festiva Madness Attendee...FM 3,4,5,6,8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LpCZ7...9Pwqw-oe8s2OYQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vU_eX...9Pwqw-oe8s2OYQ
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They are pretty easy. One of the beauties of Festivas, easy to work on.
When I did the clutch on my MG Midget a few years back, I looked in the shop manual and step one is "Remove engine and transmission from vehicle." I'm like "what?! That can't be right". Yep, that's right. There's no other way.
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I think it is easier to pull the engine to change the clutch. You don't have to pull the axles or remove any of the front end parts. I didn't even remove the radiator when I pulled it. Then while it is out you can degrease if needed and replace anything (timing belt,water pump, seals....ect) that you want. Clean the engine bay easily. A few hours work and you can get a lot more accomplished."FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
89L Silver EFI auto
91GL Green Auto DD
There ain't no rest for the wicked
until we close our eyes for good.
I will sleep when I die!
I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!
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Yes fill it with ATF this is what is recomended
BPT, G5M-R, BP26 Exintake swap + Fidanza cam gear, NSRT4 FMIC + 2.5" piping, HKS SSQV BOV, Exedy clutch, 3" downpipe + 2" all the way back, Aspire brake swap, KYB GR-2 & FMS coil spring , FMS EURO body kit + Carbon fiber hood, Falcon RTX 15X6½ + Toyo proxes T1R 195/45R15
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Originally posted by Maxtiva View PostYes fill it with ATF this is what is recomendedThe normal is not always normal... MOST is not ALL... And any job can be hard if you don't have the right tools!!!
My Fleet:
89 L 4spd (Daily Driver(if it isn't broke down)) "Spanky"
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Would recommend this How-to
The Festiva Store
Specializing in restoration, tuning and custom parts.
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