Oil change- filter type, oil type, and interval

[funky technician]

just curious as to what oil eveyone uses and how often do you change
I use penzoil platnium (synthetic), mazda brand filter, and change evey 10 thousand kelometers

[eurotiva]

20w-50 full synthetic, any filter, every 3000 miles

[Maxtiva]

Mobil1 10W30 full synthetic, Fram filter, every 8000 KM

[m715]

5,000 miles between changes Shell Rotella 5W40 synthetic in the crate engines, and Ford Super Duty 15W40 in the others with high mileage every 3,000 miles. Motorcraft oil filters. I am running Diesel oils due to the solid tappet camshafts in mine, and lack of ZDDP in all the oils now.

[lessersivad]

Mobil delvac 15w40 and Wix filter.

[skeeters_keeper]

penz plat 5w30, oil filter from work ("service champ", I think its a re-badged something or nother.. but idn, don't care much, free is for me ) and change it every 3k, sometimes sooner. Of course having it be free makes it a plus...

The bike gets mobile 1 5w40 in the winter and 15w50 in the summer with a kawi filter... I have to pay for that stuff but it still gets changed every 3k. You can hear a change in engine note after about 3k, I think the wet clutch and revving to 14k all the time are hard on the oil, synthetic or otherwise.

[funky technician]

penz plat 5w30, oil filter from work ("service champ", I think its a re-badged something or nother.. but idn, don't care much, free is for me ) and change it every 3k, sometimes sooner.

wow! how come you change it so soon if your running synthetic, I'm running 10w 30 penzoil platmium and running it until 10 000KM, and its still goldish when i drain it, and form what i can remember, were running the same motor because we built them at the same time,...........hows that working for ya by the way, mine still goes like snot and doesn't burn a drop of oil between changes

[skeeters_keeper]

because like I said, its free

Its running pretty good... i have somewhat low comp on #3. either the rough cyl walls have worn out the rings already or I have a valve leak... i don't have a leakdown tester yet so I'm not sure. Its got around 40k on it since the install and I just honed the cylinders when they prolly should have been bored (they were rusting inside). Still, for a budget rebuild I've been super happy with it!

[funky technician]

because like I said, its free

Its running pretty good... i have somewhat low comp on #3. either the rough cyl walls have worn out the rings already or I have a valve leak... i don't have a leakdown tester yet so I'm not sure. Its got around 40k on it since the install and I just honed the cylinders when they prolly should have been bored (they were rusting inside). Still, for a budget rebuild I've been super happy with it!

does it use any oil between changes? mines got 60 000 KM on it now too, i have a weak hydrolic lifter that ticks a bit at idle, but its had that since i rebuilt it, maybe someday i'll change it.....probibly not....lol... but other then that it works great, i also use iridium plugs that have been in since the rebuild, and i read on hear you shouldn't use them , but like i said mine now has 60K on them and my rotor button, and cap, including the plugs, all show no wear, so i'm not too sure how much truth is behind the iridium plugs theorys

[sasquatch]

the b3 i didnt give a hoot about so i just bought what ever was cheapst lol... but the b6t is getting royal purple 5w30 for the winter and 10w30 for the summer along with a k&n oil filter with each change

[bhazard]

Rotella synthetic, 5w40. If they would have it in 5w30 I woulda ran that.

NOT a fram filter. God no. I used the supertech filters for 2.5 v6's. Though from what I gather wix makes about the best filters around.

[Justin]

10W-30 Quaker State or Valvoline Conventional w/cheap filter every 3K I Run 10w-30 valvaline synthetic in my eldorado but 32 valves adds friction/heat & seams to burn lots of oil. Most Oil Last past 3000 K but then you'll want to get an extended drain oil filter to accomodate. I ALWAYS Check my oil level every 1000 miles & "top off" as necessary since most cars burn a little oil between changes.

[skeeters_keeper]

does it use any oil between changes? mines got 60 000 KM on it now too, i have a weak hydrolic lifter that ticks a bit at idle, but its had that since i rebuilt it, maybe someday i'll change it.....probibly not....lol... but other then that it works great, i also use iridium plugs that have been in since the rebuild, and i read on hear you shouldn't use them , but like i said mine now has 60K on them and my rotor button, and cap, including the plugs, all show no wear, so i'm not too sure how much truth is behind the iridium plugs theorys

It doesn't burn any oil as far as I can tell, but It does have a leak from the oil pan gasket... I used a real cheap ($30?) gasket kit from e-bay and the gaskets etc aren't holding up real well. I had to replace the VC gasket with a felpro to get it to stop leaking... next time I re-build an engine I guess I'll spend a little more $ for a better gasket kit, but over all I'm pretty happy with how its worked out!
I'm looking to either freshen up the B6 and boost it or just find a BP for a real re-build... and boost. I have a brand new T3 looking me in the face on my desk, it was supposed to go on the B6t car but I don't think the owner is going to be able to afford it at this point. I do have another B6t engine in the garage... and a G25mr... and a phantom grip for it. One of these days I'll decide what I'm doing and either build the B6t or a BP-t... it doesn't really seem worth while to spend the time/money on a B6t when I could for about the same price do a BPt, but then again I have a spare B6t... ah decisions

[eurotiva]

Go BPT !!!! I am hahaha. Torque something a b6 doesn't have as much of.

[skeeters_keeper]

But then I have to find a cheap BP... lol. We'll see. I need to turn it into a pretty reliable car though because I may be moving out and prolly won't have as nice a place to work on it any more :/ I prolly should just stick with it NA buuut... I want it boosted :p