Rear wheel bearings..

[ericsmith32]

What did I do wrong? Couple years ago I replaced the rear wheel bearings including the races on my dad's 91. I'd say only 30k if that (don't know). When I packed them I didn't use a excessive amount and made sure I pushed grease into the bearing just not on the outside. I tightened the nut completely while turning the wheel and backed it off till it rolled freely.. just a little bit 1/4 turn I think . Replaced the seals also and used moly grease. Perhaps just cheap china junk? I didn't keep the others I repacked long enough to see how they turned out. Need to replace the ones on mine also.. granted only 5-6 bucks for each bearing but don't want to buy new every couple years.

[GenevaDirt]

well...you need to buy some quality ones and really make sure that you pack them well.....then grease the outside too before installing. There is a thread on here for the tightening sequence some use. I just tighten mine...roll the wheel....tighten some more....roll the wheel....then back off just enough to let them roll freely for the most part. Then you can recheck them after driving a little bit. But make sure you get GOOD QUALITY bearings...like Timken. Then pack them right.

[perucho]

I just replaced mine with Timken bearings and they were $56 for all four at Autozone.

[perucho]

And get a bearing packer. Harbor Freight has them for $3.99.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=97489

[Pu241]

Yeah, think you did the job fine.
Just think the bearings might not have been the best quality.
You might be surprised at what little difference in cost that a good bearing vs a crappy one is.
That said Festiva rear bearings do have a bad habit of failing, especially if you shock the rear spindel by say hitting a pothole with the rear wheel(s) at speed.
The other thing is, if you have crush nuts, make sure they haven't backed off on you.
You will still need new bearings but at least you wont loose the wheel while your driving down the road.

[blkfordsedan]

Sounds like you did everything right. The cause of failure can be determined from looking at the bearings & races. Stick with high quality like Timken, Koyo, NTN, SKF/Tyson. Avoid Chinese, Taiwanese, Korean and Eastern European made stuff.

When you install the outer races, which have a press fit, try to use an actual press to install them or use a socket large enough that you are contacting the entire race 360 degrees around it. (not a hammer and a punch) The key is to not get them cocked in the bore and avoid any nicks. In the case of all bearings, the race that turns gets the press fit. NEVER try to install a bearing by applying force to the non-press fit race!

* Keep the grease as absolutely clean as possible. Dirt (even that you can't see) is certain death to a bearing. The common "coffee can" of grease that you dip into over and over again is an open invitation for contaminates. And, use the right grease for the application.

* Never over-pack or completely pack a bearing full with grease

* If you scratch or nick the bearing race surface, rollers or cage, you have just ruined the bearing and it will eventually experience fatigue failure.

* If you drop a bearing, you have just ruined the bearing (for the same reason)

I know of an entire warehouse of new bearings ruined because the bearings were stored on edge rather than flat and there were train tracks that ran beside the warehouse. The vibrations caused the balls (or rollers) to vibrate on the same spot on the races day after day. The result was microscopic "dents" in the races which will lead to failure. You can see how cheap imported bearings (which are shipped in bulk packs and thrown around before you ever buy them) are bound to fail. Not to mention the quality of the steel and machined finish.

[batstiva]

Yeah, think you did the job fine.
You will still need new bearings but at least you wont loose the wheel while your driving down the road.

Yep, I've said it before and I'll say it again. It is no fun being passed by your rear wheel. :banghead: I won't go back into why I know this.:cyclops:

[eurotiva]

I replace mine 2 times a year, but i run 15 inch wheels also.

[WmWatt]

When you gease use one hand to scoop it out of the pot, then transfer it to the other hand to apply it. That way you don't put a dirty hand into the grease pot and get grit in it. After I put in new rear bearings and drove for a while I felt the hubs for heat a couple times, and later jacked up the car and checked the wheels for play.

[ericsmith32]

Thanks guys sure didn't think I did anything wrong. To put in the new races I used the old races.. I think that's been a while. Two mention Timken.. I'll go with those on mine. May go with the cheapies on dad's. May not repack them for at least 50k though.. or longer.

[jonny138]

Yep, I've said it before and I'll say it again. It is no fun being passed by your rear wheel. :banghead: I won't go back into why I know this.:cyclops:

I've been passed by my tire too!:laughing6: After a day of being on the highway for hours I was glad it happened later in the night on a back road somewhere... oh well, at least it didn't hit anybody.

[syfir]

While we're on the subjet...
I was just checking mine today(rear wheel bearings, because it seems like the only part I haven't replaced yet), and the right one seems ok, the shoes may be rubbing a little bit, but there's no play at all. the left one has play. If I grasp the tire at the top and bottom and push and pull, there is movement. When I spin the tire, I hear a click-click-click, like a bad shopping cart wheel. I take it this bearing is toast? I didn't take it off today, because I'm going to run out of daylight soon. Any chance this bearing just needs to be repacked? About 150k on it.

[Pu241]

the left one has play. If I grasp the tire at the top and bottom and push and pull, there is movement. When I spin the tire, I hear a click-click-click, like a bad shopping cart wheel. I take it this bearing is toast? I didn't take it off today, because I'm going to run out of daylight soon. Any chance this bearing just needs to be repacked? About 150k on it.

You did the right thing!
I'll bet it is in pieces.
If you pulled it apart your not going anywhere.
Get a full axle set(left and right sides) plus new crush nuts, if you have them.
And don't go cheap, go with a quality bearing.
It really is money well spent.
Do the one side, and you'll have the other side when they go.
Others will say do both, it's your choice.

[syfir]

Got the drums off and the bearings out. They weren't too bad. The driver side was definitely dying though. The race was brown along the inside and there was some dirt in the grease. Anyway, when I was punching out the races I got a couple of knicks in the drum. Is this still usable or do I need a new drum now? It's not destroyed, just 4 or 5 small knicks.

[GenevaDirt]

I would use it....don't see what it would hurt unless you nicked the races. But I may still use those too if they were not bad....lol. I am cheap.