92 auto help

[Moldboy01]

So I did a b3 to b3 swap on my 92 auto and it started right up, ever thing was going great new water pump, timing belt, plugs, wires, cap, and all the good stuff. Down the road I went 6 or 7 miles and the motor cut off, like there was no gas? Got it home and started checking things out, I got fire to all the plugs, gas to the rail but it won’t fire up. Is there a fuse or something for the fuel injection?

[TominMO]

The basics: air, fuel, spark, timing.
Air: it's never air, so forget that.
Fuel: you say gas to the rail, so fuel pump is good; and sudden cutoff means it's not fuel filter. Moving on....
Spark: fire to the plugs is good; but if the ignition module inside the disty is going out, it might overheat and stop working. It would begin working again when it cooled off. This is my first suspect.
Timing (cam and ignition): (1) did cam belt break, or slip a tooth or two? You did the timing belt, but is the tensioner adjusted correctly? (2) is distributor adjustment snugged down tight, or did it slip? Both are unlikely but need checking.

[David88]

^ Good Things to check. Check the three main fubeible links on the left strut tower above the battery. Also check The ground on the right strut tower to the engine, plus all electrical connections, Starter, dist, ect,. Something may be loose and lost contact from vibration. Check the connector to the air box.

[Moldboy01]

I pulled cover back from timing belt and had my kid try to start, i could see the belt spin.The belt tensioner was spring loaded and the belt feels ok. I checked the distributor and it never moved. The car has sat all night so i will call my son and have him see if to will start today.

[TominMO]

^ Good Things to check. Check the three main fubeible links on the left strut tower above the battery. Also check The ground on the right strut tower to the engine, plus all electrical connections, Starter, dist, ect,. Something may be loose and lost contact from vibration. Check the connector to the air box.

Good calls too! Likely it's something simple like you are pointing out.

[Moldboy01]

If the ignition module was going bad would I still get fire to the plugs? I also need to check to see if im getting power to the fuel injection.

[TominMO]

If the ignition module was going bad would I still get fire to the plugs? I also need to check to see if im getting power to the fuel injection.

Yes, until it warmed up (overheated). Had this happen on a CRX; it was recalled and replaced under warranty.

[Moldboy01]

I checked the spark on all the plugs,nice blue spark.I dont think the fuel injection is putting gas in the motor. But its getting gas to the rail. What and how is the best way to check it?

[eurotiva]

Noid light. It's for checking injectors. Did you tighten your tensioner bolt?

[Moldboy01]

Ok got power to the fuel injection .I did a compression check and nothing on all cylinders. Could it have jump time so bad that it has no compression?

[eurotiva]

Yup. I think you might have forgotten to lock the tensioner in place. It has a bolt that has to be tightened. Check and double check the timing.

[Moldboy01]

I did remove the bolt that hold the adjuster and the spring come out with it can someone tell me how to put it back.

[eurotiva]

If you have the plastic timing cover off it should be easy. If not it'll be tricky. There is a channel that it rides on. The tensioner has a square notch in the back that has to be on the channel. I don't think you'll be able to put the spring back on without taking that cover off. So if you haven't already, put a jack under the motor. Take the front engine mount out. Take the belts off. Take the water pump pulley off. Then take the timing cover off. You'll be able to put it back how it should be then. Make sure it is in time (which it isn't right now.), before tightening the belt. Reassemble.

[Moldboy01]

Ok thanks a lot. I will post and let you know how it turns out.

[TominMO]

Yup. I think you might have forgotten to lock the tensioner in place. It has a bolt that has to be tightened. Check and double check the timing.

And luckily, these are non-interference motors so no valve damage resulted.