Rear Wheel Bearing Help.

[ShagFestiva]

Yesterday, my rear wheel locked up completely while I was driving. I thought at first it was the e-brake locking up but, its the bearing. I took the dust cap off and it was completely full of metal shavings. The outer bearing welded itself to the spindle, and the outer bearing race is scratched and very un-smooth. Can the outer race be punched out of the brake drum and replaced? Or do I need to get a new break drum. Im also going to need a new spindle, since the I cant get the bearing off of it. Thanks in advance.

[batstiva]

Can't really say on the drum until you get the bearings/races out and survey the damage. If you're already going to have to get a spindle, might just see if you can get the whole spindle/brake assembly. Don't know if you're planning on buying one, or pulling one at a yard. If you do go the drum and brake assembly in one route, I'd still suggest doing the bearings before you swap it onto the car, just cause who knows when the bearings were changed last.

Gonna have this pleasure myself soon, one of my rears started humming on the way home today. Not bad, but bad enough it'll be changed soon.

[wrongfulleaf]

Hmmm, I was thinking my e-brake was messing up too. This might be something to look into and probably alot more likely. Thanks for the thought!

[ShagFestiva]

it was strange.....wasnt making any noise at all and then I left my house in the morning, drove 100 feet and it went.

[Pu241]

....... I took the dust cap off and it was completely full of metal shavings. The outer bearing welded itself to the spindle, and the outer bearing race is scratched and very un-smooth. Can the outer race be punched out of the brake drum and replaced? Or do I need to get a new break drum. Im also going to need a new spindle, since the I cant get the bearing off of it. Thanks in advance.

I've never seen a bearing failure so bad that the drum was damaged.
Just carefully punch-out the race and you should be good to go.
Also remember, if you have to move the spindle (nuts are on the back of the backing plate) you will first have to remove the lower strut bolt to get to the last spindle nut.
So start using the PB-Blaster now!
That strut bolt has caused much pain and suffering.

Also while your in there, you need to break loose the pivot point used by the emergency/parking brake then lube it well.

One more thought, might want to do the same work, minus spindle replacement, on the other-side so you don't have to worry about when it might decide to let loose.

[ShagFestiva]

well...i would prefer not to do the spindle but I have no choice now...my dad busted one of the bolt heads off...so now i gotta replace the spindle or run around with 3 1/2 bolts holding it on.

[Pu241]

Stop

Again, the spindel is held on by 4 nuts located on the backside of the backing plate.
The bolts you mentioned are not removable from the front side, they are serated.

[25Horseplay]

I've never seen a bearing failure so bad that the drum was damaged.

I have, my LX the bearings were bad and oversized where the races went and new races wouldn't fit tight.

[Mike McKown]

Over the years, I have had/repaired bearings that spun bad enough to grind out the hub/drum.

I've punched them up with the center punch, made a shim out of a beer can and even mig welded in the inside of a drum so it would hold a bearing race.

Temporary fix only of course.

[ShagFestiva]

Stop

The bolts you mentioned are not removable from the front side, they are serated.

Once I drill out the bolt that got snapped, is there a specific bolt that I need to aquire? I know it needs to be grade 8, and I spoke with Arty earlier...he said it needs to be an M-10 1 1/2 or something like that...

[Pu241]

Once I drill out the bolt that got snapped, is there a specific bolt that I need to aquire? I know it needs to be grade 8, and I spoke with Arty earlier...he said it needs to be an M-10 1 1/2 or something like that...

Drilling out the snapped bolt is not an option.

Once again, the spindle is removed by removing the nuts on the back side of the backing plate (the side next to the strut).
The bolts are serrated into the backing plate, so snapping the head-off means you can probably drive the remainder of the stud out with a punch, after hitting it with some heat(carefully with a torch) and maybe BP Blaster.

Arty, is likely correct, but if you can get the remainder of the bolt out you can match it up.
Of course, a new to you spindle will have the studs/bolts already attached to it.
ready to secure to the backing plate.

[ShagFestiva]

Ahhhhhhh ok now I understand thanks for being patient and explaining haha...sorry for being so dense.

[batstiva]

Interesting. I posted here on Friday that my bearings were humming and needed changing. Drove the car to work on Mon. and to pick up the bearings/races/seals I ordered, and there was dead silence from my rear wheels. Cold? Temps were only slightly warmer on Mon. than they were on Fri. I don't get it. :dontknow:

Either way, I'll torture a confession out of the old bearings today when I swap for the new ones.
Ve have vays of making you talk.

[ShagFestiva]

sign ze papuh old man...joo can still save herrr. Make ze bearingz sign ze papuh

[sam.1956]

I cannot sign ze papuh!
VY NOT, OLT MAHN?
Because you have broken neetuhl beahrinks!