ECU durability

[nxp]

Hi guys,

Tonight a KIA pride was added to the family! Its the 4-door model and seems to be in decent condition apart from a front-end crash (fenders and bumper need replacement, driveshaft popped out of tripod joint and chassis realignment is needed - yes, all our cars are bent!).

I went to pick it up and had difficulty starting it (the car has been stopped outside for a few months). On starting the engine worked quite badly and it actually idled better with the air flow meter off. Stupidly enough I tried opening the meter (on the connection side) without knowing how it was constructed and ended up tearing the connections off the internal thick-film circuit and didn't realize. Two of these connections shorted out together and from then onwards the meter prevented the car from even trying to start (no spark). With the meter off there is spark and the car sputters and dies.

I opened up the meter from the glued-panel side and found the damaged connections - I'll solder them again and try reinstalling it.

Now here's the big question - how tough is the ECU? Should I be prepared to buy one from a junkyard or will this probably work ?

[Damkid]

I think if your refering to the air meter under the hood its actually a VAF (vain air flow) instead of the ECU, but by the sounds of it a replacement one is your best bet

[25Horseplay]

The ECU the engines computer is normally prtty good, I haven't heard of very many that ave gone bad. I would fix the VAF first then possibly a tune up.

[bhazard]

I think he was wondering if the shorting of the vaf pins hurt the ecu.

[ejp2fast]

where you located nxp?

[nxp]

bhazard is right, I was wondering if the VAF being shorted could damage the ECU. Most ECUs have protected inputs that can survive contact with practically any circuit in a car other than the HT leads, but I was wondering if our cars were an exception. 25horseplay put my mind at ease.

I'm in Malta, approximately 36deg 02min 35sec North by 14deg 17min 21sec East - not exactly close to Tulsa.

Here the 121/Pride and the Avella are quite common, so even if the ECU is fried (hopefully not), I can source one locally.

[ejp2fast]

approximately 36deg 02min 35sec North by 14deg 17min 21sec East - .

is that for us with GPS??

isn't that an island in the mediterranean?

[nxp]

Right on both counts ejp2fast.
(you could use the coordinates on google earth too)

[nxp]

Today I tried starting the Kia again - plugged the VAF sensor and started her up. Check engine light was still on but I tried keeping the engine alive by playing with the throttle. When the engine warmed up full throtle wouldn't give more than 1800rpm - very very bad!

I started smelling smoke and looked under the hood. The exhaust (just below the lambda sensor because everwhere else is shrouded) was glowing red hot! Turned the engine off, checked the water temp and the gauge had just reached half-way. I had to leave for an appointment (after the engine cooled down a bit) so I didn't look into it any more.

I'm going to search for the trouble codes here and do some troubleshooting tomorrow. My first guess is a misfiring cylinder (or two), but I'm welcome to suggestions.

[grey]

plugged exhaust or cat

you have a vacuum gauge?

[nxp]

Aye... unfortunately at my dad's place, won't be there till the weekend.

Does anyone have info on the diagnostics connector on late models (post 1996)? All stuff I can find here seems to be for 1990-1995 cars with EFI or the older cars with feedback carb.

[grey]

If you mean the underhood connector, then it takes an expensive scan tool that few people have. Leave the cap on that one and forget it is even there.

The diagnostic connector will be near the driver seat somewhere. probably under the dash there. As far as I know code readers for that are needed. They are 40- 200 bcks. You might be able to pull codes with flashin lights, but I dont think so. OBD2 vehicles usually need a code reader tool (but not always).

[nxp]

Doesn't sound like good news...!

I don't know if this is relevant, but the engine ran fine up to last October and was never started until we tried starting it this week.

[grey]

unbolt the tailpipe after the manifold is inexpensve way to see if cat is clogged....but it might be hard work and broken bolts.

[grey]

Doesn't sound like good news...!

I don't know if this is relevant, but the engine ran fine up to last October and was never started until we tried starting it this week.

oh you might drain the tank/checking flow through the filter and refill with fresh gas.... if you mean a year from october