ECU durability

[nxp]

It's been standing three months, and I added a gallon of new gas last tuesday.

Tonight I made an attempt to remove the downpipe, everything was siezed so I applied penetrating oil and will atack tomorrow with a longer spanner. If that fails I'll try separting everything at the cat.

I also tried checking diagnostic codes and there I got stumped. How do I recognize between OBD1 and OBD2 cars? Which connector should I short to ground to flash the CEL? Somebody here mentioned that the later (OBD2) cars have an MAF rather than a VAF, so can I be sure this is an OBD1 car since I have a VAF?

I found three connectors, a 6-pin, (unknown function), a 2-pin (when I shorted them together the fuel pump ran) and a 1-pin all close together. Shorting the 1-pin connector didn't flash any lights. There is no "engine symbol" light on the dash, just a "(!)" light so I am assuming this is the CEL. This light stayed on all the time, even with the engine started.

Any hints here?

[sedat]

Ground the single pin. Turn key on. slow flashes are first number, Fast flashes are second number. Not sure what you have for a CEL, but that might be your (!) indicator.

Codes are stated here.

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/showpost.php?p=280398&postcount=4

also. If your CEL is working, Your ECU is fine. If it is not, well
In my experience it is pretty hard to kill an ecu, but it IS possible.

[nxp]

With the key on and the single pin grounded I got no flashes on (!)... I forgot to check brake fluid level - on some cars that is linked with (!) being on.

I'll give it another shot tomorrow, if I have no success I'll tow the car to someone a bit more experienced.

[nxp]

Problem solved!

The problems with the engine running badly were stuck hydraulic tappets and the timing belt had skipped by one tooth. With those corrected it works beautifully!

Thanks for all the suggestions.