Need advice about engine

[Adam0419]

My 2000y aspire's exhaust is blue. And I went to the machenic, his advicE is to re-condition the engine or get another used engine to install. Either choice will cost me 3k Au$ which is too much for me. Is there any solution which is more economical?

[bhazard]

Yea, do it yourself. $3000 is insane for anything on these cars, can get a built up Turbo car in perfect shape for that. Aud or usd.

[Adam0419]

Yea, do it yourself. $3000 is insane for anything on these cars, can get a built up Turbo car in perfect shape for that. Aud or usd.

Thank you.
But I am a virgin about cars.
Could you teach me where should I begin with?

[perucho]

Sell it and get another one.

[Zanzer]

Thank you.
But I am a virgin about cars.
Could you teach me where should I begin with?

First off, I always tell people to buy a manual for every car they own, even if they don't need it at the moment, at some point it will become very valuable. In your case it will be a good reference for tolerances and service limits of engine internals.

Next, CarTech prints tons of DIY books on just about every car related topic out there. I have quite a few of them and they are great resources.

Here's a couple that may be of interest to you given your current situation:

http://www.cartechbooks.com/vstore/s...=3792&CATID=30

Companion video for the above book
http://www.cartechbooks.com/vstore/s...=3840&CATID=30

Work-A-Long sheet
http://www.cartechbooks.com/vstore/s...=3795&CATID=30

[Adam0419]

First off, I always tell people to buy a manual for every car they own, even if they don't need it at the moment, at some point it will become very valuable. In your case it will be a good reference for tolerances and service limits of engine internals.

Next, CarTech prints tons of DIY books on just about every car related topic out there. I have quite a few of them and they are great resources.

Here's a couple that may be of interest to you given your current situation:

http://www.cartechbooks.com/vstore/s...=3792&CATID=30

Companion video for the above book
http://www.cartechbooks.com/vstore/s...=3840&CATID=30

Work-A-Long sheet
http://www.cartechbooks.com/vstore/s...=3795&CATID=30

Thanks. These books are very helpful for me.

[JohnGunn]

My assumption is that the blue smoke is coming from burned oil. Or might it be coolant? What did your mechanic say exactly? Oil can enter the combustion chamber through worn valve guides or across worn piston rings. It would help to know the compression reading for all cylinders. And if any are low it would be good to know if the low values are due to badly seating valves or to worn rings. If adding oil through the spark plug hole causes the value to rise, then the rings are responsible for the loss of that difference. This is important because there is a big difference in expense between overhauling an engine and doing a valve job. An overhaul is beyond you at this point, but you might be able to remove the head and take it to a machine shop for repair.

Also, since you are concerned about expense you might look into using a higher viscosity oil. Heavier oil will have more difficulty getting past the rings and guides and, thereby, burn less oil.

How much oil are you currently burning, i.e. how many miles can you travel before the level gets to the "add" mark on the dip stick? Many oil companies are selling specially blended oils designed for use in high mileage engines. One of those at a higher viscosity is certainly worth a try.

Good Luck. You could be about to begin a fascinating journey.

John Gunn
Coronado, CA

[Adam0419]

My assumption is that the blue smoke is coming from burned oil. Or might it be coolant? What did your mechanic say exactly? Oil can enter the combustion chamber through worn valve guides or across worn piston rings. It would help to know the compression reading for all cylinders. And if any are low it would be good to know if the low values are due to badly seating valves or to worn rings. If adding oil through the spark plug hole causes the value to rise, then the rings are responsible for the loss of that difference. This is important because there is a big difference in expense between overhauling an engine and doing a valve job. An overhaul is beyond you at this point, but you might be able to remove the head and take it to a machine shop for repair.

Also, since you are concerned about expense you might look into using a higher viscosity oil. Heavier oil will have more difficulty getting past the rings and guides and, thereby, burn less oil.

How much oil are you currently burning, i.e. how many miles can you travel before the level gets to the "add" mark on the dip stick? Many oil companies are selling specially blended oils designed for use in high mileage engines. One of those at a higher viscosity is certainly worth a try.

Good Luck. You could be about to begin a fascinating journey.

John Gunn
Coronado, CA

Thanks for your so detailed advice. I'll check step by step. And I'm really appreciated.