DLC location; ignition failure

[gustoresto]

Off and on for the last 8 mos my 90 Fes will start and then die immediately repeatedly up to ~6 times, but may not do this for days. I put in a used MAF and the external power module and it didn't do it for days then it started again. I've just found out about the self diag mode using the data link conn(DLC) but it isn't in the center of the firewall where they say. There is one loose connector with maybe 8 pin slots(but only wired for 4) and 2 other single wire connectors loose in the area outboard of the brake booster. Is that the DLC and if so how do you connect/jump it to get the codes from the check eng lamp. If anyone has seen this intermittent start/cut out failure let me know. When it catches and stays lit after 2-6 times it runs perfect but will then cut out on the road rarely] Is the relay by the washer jug in front of the battery the starter relay? It clicks when the failure is occuring and maybe that's all it is??? Fuel pres is good.

[skinnypin]

you check your fusible links? my car would die on me and start and keep on dying to. turned out to be a corroded fusible link. there are 3 of them near the batter. check the MAIN. check the others while your at it.

[brickdog2000]

On my 88 model I just hook in a wire into the dlc (located by my brake booster) and ground it out to the battery. Then I turn the key into the on postion and watch the check engine light blink the code. The dlc on my car is a single wire. I hope this helps, however I think a 90 festy might be a little different. I am not sure though, I am sure someone will correct me if i am wrong.

[gustoresto]

Thx guys for the quick response; I cleaned the connectors behind the battery as an obvious suspect (no result), but missed the fusible links. I'll recheck. As for the DLC, as stated there are 2 single wires as well as the multipin. What is the color code on your DLC wire and what[color code] do you jump it to,Skinnypin?? I don't want to hook up willynilly and smoke the ECU. Thx Gus

[gustoresto]

OK It's Gus again. I went out this morning and confirmed something I suspected before. Prob is the ignition switch and I finally caught it in the act. If I wiggle the key a certain way the dash warning lamps(ign in On position) will go out. I even could make the car stay lit by moving it when it tried to cut out so I have a 1 to 1 relation there. I'll see when I get the good used switch in. Thx for trying to help. This car has 195K on it and has been serving me incredibly well for 5 yrs. Still passes PA state inspection and runs A-1. Was beginning to wonder if I'd retire it. Thx Gus

[Pu241]

Great that you've found the issue, that's usually 90-95% of the problem.
Swapping the switch isn't too difficult once you break loose the "bolts" on the top of the steering column.
You can use a small set of vise grips or cut slots in them with a dremel and use a screw driver to back them out.
Everything else is pretty easy.

[Mike McKown]

OK It's Gus again. I went out this morning and confirmed something I suspected before. Prob is the ignition switch and I finally caught it in the act. If I wiggle the key a certain way the dash warning lamps(ign in On position) will go out. I even could make the car stay lit by moving it when it tried to cut out so I have a 1 to 1 relation there. I'll see when I get the good used switch in. Thx for trying to help. This car has 195K on it and has been serving me incredibly well for 5 yrs. Still passes PA state inspection and runs A-1. Was beginning to wonder if I'd retire it. Thx Gus

I started to suggest this to you the other day. I have one like that. You turn the key to start. When it starts, you have to turn the key back toward "off" just a little to keep it running but it runs fine that way and doesn't miss a beat.

[WmWatt]

I had a problem with the ignition switch. Had to wiggle the key to get the headlights and wipers to come on. Sprayed WD-40 into the keyhole and the problem went away.