'89 carbed won't start

[doylerl]

It does turn over, just won't start. I am going to go back tomorrow morning and check for spark (it was getting dark by the time I got a chance to look at it). Any other ideas on what else to check? The way she described it, she thought the clutch was giving out because it lost speed, so she downshifted, and shortly after it just died.
It is an 89 carbed L model 4spd.
New(in the last 6 months): plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, fuel pump, air filter, and the fusible link cartridges
Unsure(not sure how old): MSD coil
Original: disty, carb
I think I have the general idea that if I don't have spark, it's either the coil or the disty module. If I have spark, obviously its a fuel problem. I did notice that the rubber hose going into the fuel filter was bent pretty bad, and almost kinked. It has been like this since I have had it though, and I have never had this problem before. The fusible links appear to be good, but I am not sure exactly what a bad one looks like. No dark spots or visibly broken contacts. Any help you guys can give me is appreciated. Thanks

[drddan]

doylerl, Your post is almost Dejavu. Mine did this last sat!
Here is a link with answers to your q's. May help
http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...=Festiva+Death
The fusable links will not look bad to look at them. Will need pulled out to see. Its in thread link

[Pu241]

Replace the center fusible link, with a 35 or 40 amp cartridge fuse.
Its cheap and quick and you can tell when they burn!
I had same problem, replaced the fuel pump and found out afterward that just need to change the fusible link.
Just a thought!

[doylerl]

doylerl, Your post is almost Dejavu. Mine did this last sat!
Here is a link with answers to your q's. May help
http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...=Festiva+Death
The fusable links will not look bad to look at them. Will need pulled out to see. Its in thread link

I read that last week, and completely forgot that post. I did remember however that the module was mentioned in other posts. That is kinda what I am leaning toward, but for $152, I think it may be sitting for now.

Replace the center fusible link, with a 35 or 40 amp cartridge fuse.
Its cheap and quick and you can tell when they burn!
I had same problem, replaced the fuel pump and found out afterward that just need to change the fusible link.
Just a thought!

I have the cartridge type fuses, but I do have a little confusion about them. One person will say it will not turn over if it is bad, and other says it will but just not start. Not to argue or anything, I am just wondering which is correct. Thanks guys for the help.

[worfdog]

I bought a module off e bay last year for $ 49.95 . Same place still has them on e bay now, but they are $69.95 now. Took 3 days to be delivered. Was worth the wait to save the money.

[Pu241]

I have the cartridge type fuses, but I do have a little confusion about them. One person will say it will not turn over if it is bad, and other says it will but just not start. Not to argue or anything, I am just wondering which is correct. Thanks guys for the help.

I know for a fact, if the center link/cartridge is bad, it will crank but not fire.
I don't know about the other two links/cartridges, just need to look at a wiring diagram.
The starter is not fused, as far as I know, so even if all fuses were pulled or bad it would still crank.
If it isn't cranking, I'd check battery connections, grounds, solenoid, starter motor, or ignition switch.
If you have the link concerning no crank with fuses bad please PM as it needs to be corrected so others are not misled.

Good Luck and hope your back on the road soon!

[doylerl]

I know for a fact, if the center link/cartridge is bad, it will crank but not fire.
I don't know about the other two links/cartridges, just need to look at a wiring diagram.
The starter is not fused, as far as I know, so even if all fuses were pulled or bad it would still crank.
If it isn't cranking, I'd check battery connections, grounds, solenoid, starter motor, or ignition switch.
If you have the link concerning no crank with fuses bad please PM as it needs to be corrected so others are not misled.

Good Luck and hope your back on the road soon!

No, it cranks just fine. I just remember reading on one post that it wouldn't even crank with the fuse blown. Also, she said she could smell something burning. Would a module smell like that, or could it be a timing belt that burned up? Thanks

[eurotiva]

It's easy enough to take the timing cover off to check. Just a couple 10mm bolts. But check for spark FIRST. A broken timing belt will also have a no spark symptom. Because it drives the cam/dizzy.

[Pu241]

Couldn't he just check to see if the rotor is turning in the distributor for a broken timing belt?

[doylerl]

Couldn't he just check to see if the rotor is turning in the distributor for a broken timing belt?

Update: Timing belt is still on, and seems fine. There is NO spark, so the only other thing that I could think of and that was mentioned in the replys is the ign. module. I have a [WTB] post up, we will see if I can get one... Thanks again everyone.

[Festy46]

One more thing you can try is locate the + side of your coil. There should be a small raised "+" sign beside the one post on the coil. It should have 2 wires under the nut - one going to the distributor and one going into a wiring harness. Remove the wire that goes into the wiring harness. Leave the wire going to the distributor on the coil and connect a jumper wire from the + post of your coil to the + post on your battery. Make sure everything is connected securely and try to start the car again. Doing this will eliminate the possibility of any bad fusible links or other ignition wiring problems. Another spot to check is the point where the wires from the coil go into the distributor. They are bent at a very sharp angle where they enter the distributor and sometimes the insulation on the wires crack in this location. They could possibly cause a short here under the right circumstances.

[CABGx3]

Update: Timing belt is still on, and seems fine. There is NO spark, so the only other thing that I could think of and that was mentioned in the replys is the ign. module. I have a [WTB] post up, we will see if I can get one... Thanks again everyone.

How did you determine that there is NO spark? If by checking one or more plug wires then a broken distributor shaft or rotor cap or bad coil wire would give that same indication.

CABGx3

[doylerl]

Update. I had a buddy come over with his festy, and we swapped out the ignition module. Same problem. I have read that it may be a pick-up coil. How do you go about replacing these? On the end of my disty. shaft, there is a "nut" type deal on it. How do you take this off, or is it not possible. I am running out of ideas and I am low on funds, so I want to try the free stuff first. I have read somewhere also that it may have something to do with the ignition switch. Is there a way to bypass this or diagnose this? Thanks for the help everyone.

[Festy46]

I have read somewhere also that it may have something to do with the ignition switch. Is there a way to bypass this or diagnose this? Thanks for the help everyone.

Read my post above. I already told you how to bypass the fusible link, ignition wires and ignition switch.

[WmWatt]

Take your ignition control module out and have it tested for free at an auto parts store. Call some parts stores to find one which does it for free. There is some info on the modules
at www.ag384bn.bravehost.com/Cars.htm