Mounting 1.3 Festiva on engine stand

[RitzyFestiva]

Ok new here so here goes, I recently purchased a used engine stand to mount up my 1.3 ltr to overhaul it. the stand did not come with any mounting bolts. I understand I will need to mount the 4 points onto the bellhousing/engine. I removed the flywheel, used 19mm bolts and I needed to use an air impact to remove them. Seems they were attached using some sort of thread locker. Got it off and then started looking for 4 mounting locations for bolts. Only thing I could find were two threaded holes near the top of the housing on the engineat 11 and 1 o'clock Are these 12 x 1.5mm threaded holes? Any idea on how deep these holes are? As for the lower two holes found what appear to be two more holes/flanges on the bellhousing but they seem to have a sleeve that sticks out about 1/2". the holes both seem to be smooth bore. These are located at would be 8 and 4 o'clock on the housing. Would/should I use the same type bolts through these two hole and just attach nuts to hold the lower attachment points to the stand? Is this where I want to mount the lower two bolts for the engine stand? Any help/suggestions here would be huge. thanks

[eurotiva]

I would go to the hardware store and get bolts long enough to go thru the engine stand and motor. I use 4.5 inch long bolts. 5/16th in diameter and put a nut on it. Hope this helps. If you try to find bolts of the proper thread and length You'll pay $5-6 each for them.

[Festy46]

You've found the 4 mounting points. If the rotating head on your engine stand is easily removable, I've found it is easier to remove the rotating head and attach it to the engine block while the block is sitting on the floor or a bench. That way you can tighten all the bolts evenly without worrying about putting unnecessary stress on either the engine stand head or the block. I also put enough large flat washers over the "sleeves" to cover their length and then I put one smaller washer over the stack of big ones to protect the sleeve completely. You can also use some washers as shims on the top bolts if necessary so that the engine stand attaching points all touch the block at the same time. You don't want to put an uneven stress on the block and engine stand when you tighten the bolts.

When you removed the flywheel you noticed thread locker. This is necessary to avoid having oil leak out around the threads from the oil pan. When you re-install the flywheel, make sure you clean the bolt threads and bolt holes and apply a fresh coat of thread locker.

[perucho]

^ Are you sure? To mount my BP on a stand I needed four M12 bolts but the pitch was 1.5mm (which is also not common, M12 usually has a 1.75mm pitch). The B3 may have a different pitch though. I got them at a local Fastenal store after someone here recommended the place. They were $1.70 each I think.

[CharlieZ]

<snip> I've found it is easier to remove the rotating head and attach it to the engine block while the block is sitting on the floor or a bench. <snip>

This is some of the best engine stand advice ever.

[RitzyFestiva]

Well I did just what you said it seems that three of the 4 mount locations have threads while one is smooth bore. The bolts ineeded I got at a NAPA parts store as all the local Lowe's Home Depot or other hardware stores did not have the correct bolts. I ended up with 3 M12 x 1.5 Two were 70mm and the third was 90mm. Screwed right in and I then adjusted the stand head to be centered around the crankshaft center and tightened up the bolts and stand head. Used my hoist to lift it up and then slipped it into the the head of the engine stand, pinned it in position, rolled it into the garage and now my son and I can work on it in getting it ready for the swap into his Festiva. Props to everyone for their inputs and help!

[perucho]

Ok, now I'm confused. So are they 12Mx1.5 or 12Mx1.0? LOL. I also used 3 70mm bolts and one 90mm bolt (all 12Mx1.5mm pitch) but that was for a BP.

[RitzyFestiva]

OK so now I AM confused, what is a BP? (British Petroleum?) All I know is I tried everything that was recommended to me metric size including what ever they had at the store 1.0, 1.25, 1.5, 1.75. The only ones that fit the FESTIVA 1.3 engine mounting points were the M12 x 1.5.

[Festy46]

OK so now I AM confused, what is a BP? (British Petroleum?)

"BP" is the term used to refer to the 1.8L Mazda motor that can be swapped into the Festiva with a limited amount of modifications. It's not quite a direct "bolt in", but almost.

[RitzyFestiva]

Awwwwww, I see said the blind man. I have heard some of the chatter about engine swaps so knowing some of the slang terms is a help. thanks for the tips on mounting the engine to the stand. Once I got the right bolts it was pretty easy to mount the stand head to the block. Will have to put the engine up on my work bench and block it in position when I do the rear main seal on the '88 block. Having an engine at waist height to pull the manifolds is a huge help and being able to walk around it will make it easier. thanks for the insight

[Festy46]

And when you put it back together, don't forget to put that stupid tin shroud on before you attach the flywheel or you'll be taking the flywheel back off. (Been there, done that) Also, don't forget your sealer on the flywheel to crankshaft bolts.

[Zanzer]

Correction:

I broke out the thread pitch gauge today (like I should have done in the first place) and the bolts are in fact M12 x 1.50mm.

I guess when I thought I was screwing a 1.00mm nut onto the bolt it was prolly because the nuts in the bin were mixed up..as they often are.

Sorry if I caused any confusion. I'll have a Mod delete my threads that contain the incorrect information.