Sea Foam hasnt worked yet

[black beauty]

my festy has an awful ticking goin no. I was told to try using some sea foam in the engine oil. It still ticks. how long am I suppose to run it in there? are their any other solutions? Thanks!

[FestYboy]

it takes time and a few oil changes to work, especially if the lifters are gunked. if it persists past a couple more changes, buy yourself a new set of HLAs off the Bay ($39)

[spiko]

Have you adjusted the lifters? Over time they can get out of place and tick.

[ericsmith32]

Instead of seafoam try a half a quart of Mystery Marvel Oil. Never had any luck with seafoam. I'm running it both of mine right now.. in the Escape we're at 5k and it's quite a bit darker than the last run that was stretched out to 10k. Auto-RX is also a option but I'd try the way cheaper MMO first.

[Pu241]

my festy has an awful ticking goin no. I was told to try using some sea foam in the engine oil. It still ticks. how long am I suppose to run it in there? are their any other solutions? Thanks!

What do the directions on the Seafoam say?

Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) might not be a bad idea, but I wouldn't drive it with it in the crank case.
The small percentage of chlorinated hydrocarbons(1% or less) are very powerful solvents and should clean things out, but they are chemically active and at elevated temps are likely to produce acids, hydrochloric acid, which can further react with other materials in a less than optimum way.

http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/index.php/site/faq/

I have used a half of quart of ATX fluid just before an oil change with 5-10 minutes of engine idling and that seemed to help.

[ericsmith32]

What do the directions on the Seafoam say?

Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) might not be a bad idea, but I wouldn't drive it with it in the crank case.
The small percentage of chlorinated hydrocarbons(1% or less) are very powerful solvents and should clean things out, but they are chemically active and at elevated temps are likely to produce acids, hydrochloric acid, which can further react with other materials in a less than optimum way.

http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/index.php/site/faq/

I have used a half of quart of ATX fluid just before an oil change with 5-10 minutes of engine idling and that seemed to help.

So you recommend against MMO but would use ATF instead hmmm.

[bhazard]

I was a quart low on oil in my gf's shadow when I autocrossed it. Didn't have any oil so I poured in a quart of atf. Ran that for quite awhile. I think its about equivalent to 10 weight. Motor still runs strong to this day despite my cheap riggings.

[Pu241]

So you recommend against MMO but would use ATF instead hmmm.

Not exactly what I said now was it!

I said "MMO might not be a bad idea, but I wouldn't drive it with it in the crank case."
Same as I said for ATX fluid.
I used ATX fluid because of it's high detergent/suspension agent content.

Neither of these fluids are designed for the high temps and shear lube oil sees when an engine is driven.
Again, that is why I use it before an oil change with engine only at idle.

Just a side note, I also included a link to the MMO Q/A page.
So you still think I'm dissing MMO?

[black beauty]

ok let me get this straight. Right before I get ready to change my oil, add either MMO or atz fluid and let it idle for about 10 min. then drain it and add 4 quarts of engine oil and that should do the trick?

[bhazard]

I would go more than 10 minutes. Drive it for a few days.

[Pu241]

I would go more than 10 minutes. Drive it for a few days.

Agreed, due to the lifters being clogged I'd go more than 10 minutes too!
Nice thing is, he should be able to tell if the lifters are getting oil just by the sound.
Maybe drive it around the block a few times to make sure oil is at temp.
Maybe longer if he isn't running at high speed over long distances.
Want to give it time to solvate the crud clogging the lifters, higher temps helps that as well.
Again nice guide is how are they sounding.
And most definitely change the filter after this.
I know most people do, but just in case!

[JPT]

All of the above advice sounds good. I'd try it. One thing I wouldn't do is use some of that "Motor Flush" stuff. Not because it doesn't work, it's because if you have any old seals or gaskets, and the only reason they don't leak is because of sludge build up, this stuff will work wonders in helping you find which ones need to be replaced first.

I tried some. My valve cover gasket looked fine, but after using some motor flush, it leaks like crazy. I think I need a new crank seal too.

[ericsmith32]

Not exactly what I said now was it!

I said "MMO might not be a bad idea, but I wouldn't drive it with it in the crank case."
Same as I said for ATX fluid.
I used ATX fluid because of it's high detergent/suspension agent content.

Neither of these fluids are designed for the high temps and shear lube oil sees when an engine is driven.
Again, that is why I use it before an oil change with engine only at idle.

Just a side note, I also included a link to the MMO Q/A page.
So you still think I'm dissing MMO?

Yes and no but I wouldn't claim the latter unless you have hard proof.

"The small percentage of chlorinated hydrocarbons(1% or less) are very powerful solvents and should clean things out, but they are chemically active and at elevated temps are likely to produce acids, hydrochloric acid, which can further react with other materials in a less than optimum way."

What it does say in non-technical terms:
"Yes! Marvel Mystery Oil is completely safe in today’s high-tech cars and provide the same benefits as it has since 1923-cleaner engines, upper cylinder lubrication, reduced acid and sludge build up, improved fuel economy, clean and lubricated fuel systems and many more!"

I don't think they'd claim that if they had alot of lawsuits from engine damage... and if one wanted proof could do so quite extensively. The difference between ATF and MMO is that MMO can be long-term without damage. In a Festiva I'd put 1/2 quart of MMO run it 1k.. change it out with fresh oil and put another 4-8 oz. Around 2.5k remove the oil filter and reinstall and add enough MMO to bring it to the full line. Change again at 3k.. if you continue to have any issues after that no cleaner in the world would help.