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yet another question for you guys

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  • yet another question for you guys

    ok so the people at advance dont seem to know anything about anything and it has cost me two tstat gaskets already so i need to know if you guys can help; do i put rtv on the gasket or not, the manual says to, but my dad and others said not to because its a rubber gasket, but someone else said I have to and I have tried both but i think i need to put a little on just not too much, cus I am having leakage on it, also does the orange circle printed on the gasket go towards the head or toward the housing unit?? sorry to bother but please help if you know., thnks
    91 red l-



  • #2
    yea only put what you need on i did it with one of my neons and it worked just fine just as long as you take your time an dont over do it an LET IT SET that was my first mistake....lol

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    • #3
      let it set? what you mean dont tighten it or dont drive it or tighten it and dont drive it for how long?
      91 red l-


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      • #4
        I have done several and have done it both ways. If you pull your Disty it is much easier to work on. Just have to make sure that both mating surfaces are clean. If you use any rtv...just use enough to hold the gasket in place while putting it back together. Tighten up a little at a time and do not over tighten.
        "FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
        89L Silver EFI auto
        91GL Green Auto DD
        There ain't no rest for the wicked
        until we close our eyes for good.
        I will sleep when I die!
        I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!

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        • #5
          I think the thought of not putting on a gasket goop (that's what rtv is, correct?) comes from the day of harsh solvents and cork gaskets way back in the day. Solvents would break down the cork, making them leak. These days, gaskets usually aren't as thick, and also not usually made of cork. I'd add it personally.

          Thickness-wise, I'd only use a bead about as wide as the shoelace in a pair of dress shoes (or that thin shoestring type licorice). Run it around the entire area of the gasket where it's going to be against metal, I'll also put it around the bolt holes. Might be overkill, but I usually don't get leaks then. Letting your goop set for as long as possible is best.. most of this stuff sets in an hour, but takes twenty-four to cure. If I need the car the next day, then the work needs to get done asap once I get home, then the car can sit overnight once its all together again to maximize the curing time I have before I have to use it again. If it's not a full twenty four hours since the goop went in, I baby the car as much as possible that day.

          Finally, depending on who makes the gasket says whether or not you get markings on the gasket.. I usually dry fit with the part and see which way the gasket fits the best with the part in place. Ultimately, the gaskets job is to fill a bit of the space and cushion things a little bit between two parts with some material to prevent leaks.
          Last edited by darrenryall; 02-28-2010, 11:26 AM.
          Carz:
          '09 Ford F-150
          '80 Chrysler LeBaron Town and Country
          '80 Volvo 240 2dr coupe

          '93 Festiva GL
          225996.9 kilometers = 140428.0 miles on the odometer
          ...and definitely more soon..

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          • #6
            After doing several, I've concluded the best way for me is to:

            a) remove the distributor

            b) remove the thermostat housing and clean the housing and head mating surface along with the groove the thermostat sets in

            c) stick three dabs of gasket sealer in the thermostat groove to hold the thermostat in place

            d) put the top bolt through the thermostat housing and slide the gasket over the bolt, then start the bolt

            e) assemble and snug the bottom bolt

            f) snug the top bolt

            g) snug both bolts again

            h) install distributor

            Before you remove the distributor, find the appropriate size drill bit that will fit between the distributor holdown bolt washer and the end of the distributor adjustment slot. Use this same "gauge" when you re-install the distributor.

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            • #7
              jus tighten it down but DO NOT overtighten it an let it set before you drive it

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              • #8
                Originally posted by 92festie View Post
                jus tighten it down but DO NOT overtighten it an let it set before you drive it
                Yup, you've got it.
                Carz:
                '09 Ford F-150
                '80 Chrysler LeBaron Town and Country
                '80 Volvo 240 2dr coupe

                '93 Festiva GL
                225996.9 kilometers = 140428.0 miles on the odometer
                ...and definitely more soon..

                Comment


                • #9
                  alright thanks i guess the fact that my thermo house is craked and is sealed with kb dosnt help..-
                  91 red l-


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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Mike McKown View Post
                    Before you remove the distributor, find the appropriate size drill bit that will fit between the distributor holdown bolt washer and the end of the distributor adjustment slot. Use this same "gauge" when you re-install the distributor.
                    Mike nice write-up!
                    But the above is just priceless!
                    Especially, after finally getting the timing just where you wanted it.
                    '93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
                    '93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
                    '92 Aqua parts Car
                    '93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
                    '90 White LX Thanks to FB71

                    "Your God of repentance will not save you.
                    Your holy ghost will not save you.
                    Your God plutonium will not save you.
                    In fact...
                    ...You will not be saved!"

                    Prince of Darkness -1987

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Pu241 View Post
                      Mike nice write-up!
                      But the above is just priceless!
                      Especially, after finally getting the timing just where you wanted it.
                      Thanks. I forgot to mention the "gauge" was to maintain your timing setting. Some here may not know that.

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                      • #12
                        my trick will help u out take the hose off the housing clean both surface motor and housing then apply some gasket sealer to seal and housing let it with screws in opposite end dry then after put thermostat in engine block then grab housing and bolt and use your first index finger in center when housing and block are straight boom screw bolt in thermostat is done remember there's a grove where the thermostat sits in thats my conclusion and mine does not leak just redid when i put the engine in..
                        FORD BUILT TOUGH SINCE 1987-1993 FORD FESTIVA LX

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