smell of fuel in oil

[eurotiva]

If your timing belt is stretched/worn enough, you will have to advance the cam one notch from those timing marks.

If your timing belt is strectched this much..REPLACE IT.

[Zanzer]

^^ X2

It's cheap and easy to do.

[Mike McKown]

If your timing belt is strectched this much..REPLACE IT.

It'd be hard to confirm how much it's stretched unless you could get a look at the tensioner position, wouldn't it?

If you have no history on the engine, I don't know how else you could tell for sure.

[murrillcg]

I think you had the timing belt off? Has is run right since?

Mike you are correct. I had the belt off to reset the drift key for the crank pulley. I may not of gotten it back in timing correctly. I do know the belt is not stretched, I replaced it back in September, and like I stated, it hasn't been driven much. I do go out and start it at least once a week to keep the battery charged.

[Zanzer]

It's pretty easy to pull the top cover and check the deflection of the belt. If you're gonna tear it down far enough to advance the cam one tooth then may as well go the distance and install a new belt. A new belt is only $22 and it's good insurance. Plus if the car has alot of miles and he doesn't know when/if it's been changed it's a good reason to do it anyway. For another $27 and 6 bolts may as well go ahead and replace the water pump too. Those are two items that are cheap, easy, and will help you sleep better at night knowing they are in good condition


Since you replaced it within the last 6 months you may want to go back and double check your installation. It's easy to get them off one tooth.

[murrillcg]

It's pretty easy to pull the top cover and check the deflection of the belt. If you're gonna tear it down far enough to advance the cam one tooth then may as well go the distance and install a new belt. A new belt is only $22 and it's good insurance. Plus if the car has alot of miles and he doesn't know when/if it's been changed it's a good reason to do it anyway. For another $27 and 6 bolts may as well go ahead and replace the water pump too. Those are two items that are cheap, easy, and will help you sleep better at night knowing they are in good condition


Since you replaced it within the last 6 months you may want to go back and double check your installation. It's easy to get them off one tooth.

Adjusting the timing would get it to idle right, but would that fix the smell of fuel in the valve?

[festivaWES]

An unburnt fuel mixture seeping past the compression and oil rings into the crankcase can result in smelling gas in the oil.....usually a result of running bad gas that has been sitting in the tank.

[88FestivaLX]

I have the same problem on my car. It's an 88 carbed. I had the head gasket replaced less than a year ago. I have milky crap in the valve cover and oil cap and the hose that runs from the valve cover to the breather for the carb. I drive about 10 miles round trip to work. I'm hoping its just condensation or something. The dipstick and drained oil look fine on mine. I've also noticed I have a small coolant leak coming from the hard pipe going to the block (water pump inlet?). It drips down to the top of the oil pan. I was wondering if maybe some was seeping into the oil. Haven't checked it all yet b/c I'm tired of working on everything, ha

[murrillcg]

So I had my festiva towed to the shop yesterday to have them try and figure out why I was having the problems I am. The out come was I paid $100.00 to be told what I already knew and that they didn't know why it was running rich, and that thier computer wouldn't connect to the Festiva. So they proceded to tell me that I needed to either rebuild the engine or put a new engine in. They then proceded to tell me that they could get me a used engine with less miles for $998.00, plus another $1000 to pull mine and put that one in. Oh and they would give me a thirty day warrenty also.

So, I proceeded to tell the dealership, that I would have to be crazy to pay that much for a used engine, and to pay that much for them to install it. I also told them that I could get another Festiva for that much and have other parts that I need. So here's my delima, do I get a complete rebuild kit and re build it with the help of a friend, or do I go on the look out for used or new engine?

If anyone knows where I can get a complete rebuild kit, good used or new engine, please let me know.

[GenevaDirt]

why do you need an engine? did you check the timing to make sure that you are not a tooth off on the belt?
Not sure why you would take it to a dealership instead of a mechanic that does it all and does not have a dealership to support.
Really think that if you are not comfortable rechecking the belt that you get someone to help you make sure it is right before you just decide to throw out an engine.

[JPT]

Sounds like swap time. Check http://www.car-part.com for engines.

I looked in your area for B8MEs (easy swap). There are a number of them for sale.

This place...

http://www.foreignautosalvage.com/

has 6 of them for $125.00 each.

[murrillcg]

why do you need an engine? did you check the timing to make sure that you are not a tooth off on the belt?
Not sure why you would take it to a dealership instead of a mechanic that does it all and does not have a dealership to support.
Really think that if you are not comfortable rechecking the belt that you get someone to help you make sure it is right before you just decide to throw out an engine.

I sent it the dealership for them to check and set the timing and also to find out why there was the smell of fuel in the oil, and they told me the best thing to do was to replace the engine. I am not sold on replacing the engine quite yet, but don't want to put to much into this one to find out that I need to rebuild it anyways. I have a friend that will help to check the timing and rebuild if needed, but he is in a class for the next two weeks.

[wybnrml]

I have a friend that will help to check the timing and rebuild if needed, but he is in a class for the next two weeks.

Heres the link for timing if you need it. http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?t=210

[Zanzer]

Sounds like the shop is taking the easy way out and giving you the blanket statement of "just rebuild it and all of your problems will be solved". I don't buy it.

I would suggest:

- Recheck the timing and belt
- Ensure that the PVC system isn't clogged
- Test the O2 sensor
- Do a compression check and or leak down test on the cylinders - this will give you a good indication of cylinder wear and the condition of various valve train components and help you rule out the head gasket.
- Notice if the car is using or losing any water
- Drive the car and put some miles on it. Get it up to normal operating temperature for longer periods of time. Short trips exacerbate the condensation problem, especially in colder climates and damp weather conditions.

[Mike McKown]

Sounds like the shop is taking the easy way out and giving you the blanket statement of "just rebuild it and all of your problems will be solved". I don't buy it.

I would suggest:

- Recheck the timing and belt
- Ensure that the PVC system isn't clogged
- Test the O2 sensor
- Do a compression check and or leak down test on the cylinders - this will give you a good indication of cylinder wear and the condition of various valve train components and help you rule out the head gasket.
- Notice if the car is using or losing any water
- Drive the car and put some miles on it. Get it up to normal operating temperature for longer periods of time. Short trips exacerbate the condensation problem, especially in colder climates and damp weather conditions.

I agree with every bit of this.

You might also check fuel pressure too.

Just wonder if an injector(s) sticking to contribute to this problem?

Charles, the weather is going to be better this week end. Want me to swing by and have a look?