Smog Test Fail: Air Injection, Ignition Timing, Fuel Cap

[SleightOHand]

Hey all, got my 88 carb'd Mighty Festiva smog tested yesterday and failed on the Air Injection, Ignition Timing, and Fuel Cap Functional tests.

HC: 341/301 (153/128 max allowable) --> GROSS POLLUTER category
CO: .97/.79 (.91/.81 max allowable)
NO: 1284/1363 (906/845 max allowable)

I'm assuming the ignition timing is because I left the timing cover off after I replaced the water pump a couple months ago. It was rubbing the WP pulley so I tried cutting away plastic but I couldn't get it to stop rubbing, so I just left it off.

When I popped the air control valve off the aluminum box next to the air cleaner, I couldn't get the plunger to go down when I sucked on the nipple and I could feel a vacuum leak as I sucked. (Haynes manual says it should close with 5.5 in-Hg. Mouth-suction-able right?)

I guess my question is that if I am able to replace the air control valve and get a new gas cap would I pass emissions? And can I ask the smog tech to check the timing with a timing light? I know timing covers are difficult to come by.

Thanks for any help or suggestions!

[TominMO]

Hey all, got my 88 carb'd Mighty Festiva smog tested yesterday and failed on the Air Injection, Ignition Timing, and Fuel Cap Functional tests.

HC: 341/301 (153/128 max allowable) --> GROSS POLLUTER category
CO: .97/.79 (.91/.81 max allowable)
NO: 1284/1363 (906/845 max allowable)

I'm assuming the ignition timing is because I left the timing cover off after I replaced the water pump a couple months ago. It was rubbing the WP pulley so I tried cutting away plastic but I couldn't get it to stop rubbing, so I just left it off.

When I popped the air control valve off the aluminum box next to the air cleaner, I couldn't get the plunger to go down when I sucked on the nipple and I could feel a vacuum leak as I sucked. (Haynes manual says it should close with 5.5 in-Hg. Mouth-suction-able right?)

I guess my question is that if I am able to replace the air control valve and get a new gas cap would I pass emissions? And can I ask the smog tech to check the timing with a timing light? I know timing covers are difficult to come by.

Thanks for any help or suggestions!

Some things that should help:
1. Retard the timing.
2. Replace the air filter.
3. Full tuneup: plugs, disty cap and rotor, plug wires if needed. Use NGK plugs.
4. Stick a can of "Guaranteed to Pass" in the gas tank and drive it for at least half a tank.
5. New fuel cap.

Ignition timing has nothing to do with the timing belt cover.

[SleightOHand]

I know the cover has nothing to do with the actual timing, but from what I understand, the techs check the markings on the cover and the timing can only be +/- 2 degrees from spec, I believe.

Air filter only has ~2300 miles.
Plugs/wires/cap/rotor were actually next on my maintenance list, but I didn't want to spend the money if I wasn't going to be able to pass smog. I will if that stuff will help, though. I meant to ask that in the OP.

[wybnrml]

I know the cover has nothing to do with the actual timing, but the techs check the markings on the cover and the timing can only be +/- 2 degrees from spec, I believe.

If I remember correctly, the plastic cover dosn't have the marks on it, there is a metal tab with a T on it with degreemarks, so you shouldn't need the cover.

[SleightOHand]

If I remember correctly, the plastic cover dosn't have the marks on it, there is a metal tab with a T on it with degreemarks, so you shouldn't need the cover.

Yeah, I found that once I got home and could double check that it wasn't part of the plastic I cut off, but the tech wrote "timing belt cover" on the result sheet. It is hard to see the tab because of the a/c compressor belt so maybe that's it.

I wanted to ask the guy some questions but there was something up with his throat and he could barely speak above a whisper, so it was hard to have a conversation with 2 cars on the rollers behind me.

[perucho]

Hey all, got my 88 carb'd Mighty Festiva smog tested yesterday and failed on the Air Injection, Ignition Timing, and Fuel Cap Functional tests.

HC: 341/301 (153/128 max allowable) --> GROSS POLLUTER category
CO: .97/.79 (.91/.81 max allowable)
NO: 1284/1363 (906/845 max allowable)

I'm assuming the ignition timing is because I left the timing cover off after I replaced the water pump a couple months ago. It was rubbing the WP pulley so I tried cutting away plastic but I couldn't get it to stop rubbing, so I just left it off.

When I popped the air control valve off the aluminum box next to the air cleaner, I couldn't get the plunger to go down when I sucked on the nipple and I could feel a vacuum leak as I sucked. (Haynes manual says it should close with 5.5 in-Hg. Mouth-suction-able right?)

I guess my question is that if I am able to replace the air control valve and get a new gas cap would I pass emissions? And can I ask the smog tech to check the timing with a timing light? I know timing covers are difficult to come by.

Thanks for any help or suggestions!

They just took your money. They shouldn't have smogged it if they couldn't adjust (or verify) the timing. That's one of the first things they do, so knowing that it was going to fail, they still did the test. And now that's categorized as a gross polluter, you can only have it smogged at a test-only place.
How long have you owned it? If you've had it for more than 2 years, i.e. this is not the first time you have smogged the car with the title on your name, you can sell it to the state for $1,000 and get yourself another Festiva.

[SleightOHand]

They just took your money. They shouldn't have smogged it if they couldn't adjust (or verify) the timing. That's one of the first things they do, so knowing that it was going to fail, they still did the test. And now that's categorized as a gross polluter, you can only have it smogged at a test-only place.
How long have you owned it? If you've had it for more than 2 years, i.e. this is not the first time you have smogged the car with the title on your name, you can sell it to the state for $1,000 and get yourself another Festiva.

That's what I was afraid of. It'll be 2 years in May and it was already required to go to a test only/gold shield place when I got the notice for this year's registration renewal. It does qualify for the state's $500 emissions repair program, but I'd rather just do the work myself than risk dealing with a shady mechanic.

[Tim]

I haven't personally verified this, but a friend of mine who builds Mustangs claims he passes emissions (with a hollowed out cat, no less) by letting letting it almost run out of gas, then putting in a gallon of alcohol into it and driving it to the testing station. Something to do with alcohol burning clean and reducing emissions.

-Tim

[Oren09]

So glad Montana doesn't have auto inspections, emissions testing, or CARB (ugh).
My festy would fail so hardcore back in Texas. Just having a cracked light lense will fail. Not to mention my exhaust leak and probable smog fail.

[perucho]

That's what I was afraid of. It'll be 2 years in May and it was already required to go to a test only/gold shield place when I got the notice for this year's registration renewal. It does qualify for the state's $500 emissions repair program, but I'd rather just do the work myself than risk dealing with a shady mechanic.

If it qualifies for the $500 repair program it may also qualify for the $1,000 vehicle retirement program. There were talks that it was going to go up to $1,500 but that has not happened yet.

Check this out: http://www.smogtips.com/cap_app.pdf

[Fordverde]

The timing may be the vaccum advance at the distributor. Have you clean the jets? main and secundary? if they havent been changed since 1988 that could be a reason why are you failing the test.

[WmWatt]

The nitrogen is mostly likely the EGR valve, a simple thing to remove, clean and reinstall. It made a big difference on mine. I wrote something about it and put it at

http://www.ag384bn.bravehost.com/Cars.htm

Hydrocarbon is likely the catalytic converter or O2 sensor, or both in that order. (I still have the originals after 20 years and 115k km and the car just texted 'way below the limits.)

[SleightOHand]

The timing may be the vaccum advance at the distributor. Have you clean the jets? main and secundary? if they havent been changed since 1988 that could be a reason why are you failing the test.

Would that be the carb jets? How would I go about that? I've got a bottle of seafoam that I forgot I had so I was planning on running that through the engine today.

The nitrogen is mostly likely the EGR valve, a simple thing to remove, clean and reinstall. It made a big difference on mine. I wrote something about it and put it at

http://www.ag384bn.bravehost.com/Cars.htm

Hydrocarbon is likely the catalytic converter or O2 sensor, or both in that order. (I still have the originals after 20 years and 115k km and the car just texted 'way below the limits.)

Thanks for the write-up. I saw links to it in other threads but the link was dead. I popped it off, held the diaphragm open with a wooden clothespin and it's soaking in mineral spirits now. Looking at where it was mounted, the left passage has carbon buildup all the way around maybe 30-40% into the diameter like a constricted artery. Is there any way to get rid of that?

Is there anywhere that does like a pre-test so I can see if any of this is helping at all before I use up my free re-test?

[Fordverde]

Yeap, it's the carb jets, also Wmwatt is right, the EGR sometimes get stuck.

[JohnGunn]

My car is a fuel injected. So, my experience may or may not apply to your situation.

I try to go to a place that is Test Only. It costs more but at least you are sure that the person doing the test is not subject to an obvious conflict of interest.

I also go to a small Mom and Pop test station where I can stand just outside the work area and watch what is going on.

I think you might get better results by going to another shop. Seems like the technician may have been new or at least inexperienced. I know that they check the timing, I have watched them do it. But I also know that the marks are covered with grease and very difficult to see. I don't believe he could have actually read the timing correctly. My guess is that is something they will just let slide, thinking that the emissions tail pipe test will catch any timing problem.

The last time I was tested, the machine showed that my tank was not sealing properly. He just took it off and wiped the gasket and resealed it and it passed.

The only time mine failed, I was extremely disappointed and wanted to know what I should do. Now the test only places are not allowed to give any recommendations, but because I was a long-time customer and had always tried to show him how much I cared for my car, he took me out into the alley behind the shop and told me that my car was so simple that the catalytic converter was most likely the source of the problem.

I replaced that and passed.

You should also make sure that when the test is done that they warm the car up completely. I usually ask them when is the best time to bring it in to get it quickly done and then ride around a while before I show up. Then I'm standing there watching so I'm sure that makes him do a better job than otherwise.

I agree with you that it would be better in the long term to get a direct fit cat at AutoZone with a life time warranty. Then for as long as you own the car you can just go back for another one should you ever fail.

Of course, always before I take it in I make sure it is running well and am getting my usual 42 MPG.

John Gunn
Coronado, CA