Break in questions

[fastivaca]

I figure this might stir up some different opinions....

I'm currently installing a rebuilt head with new cam, putting in new rod bearings and piston rings.

What is the recommended break in procedure? This is a B6 engine with close to 2000,000 miles on it.

[Zanzer]

From the Chilton manual:

Make the first miles on the new engine, easy ones. Vary the speed but do not accelerate hard. Most importantly, do not lug the engine, and avoid sustained high speeds until at least 100 miles. Check the engine oil and coolant levels frequently. Expect the engine to use a little oil until the rings seat. Change the oil and filter at 500 miles, 1500 miles, then every 3000 miles past that.


I have heard some crazy break in procedures over the years though

[FestYboy]

^heard of that, and also heard of getting it up to temp, then whiping the crap out of it for a few miles... not sure which i'd go with.

[perucho]

Did you hone the cylinders? If not, do. Otherwise the rings won't sit/wear right. I would use 30w oil to break in.

[fastivaca]

I'll be honing the cylinders in the morning. Another question... I have the head off but there's quite a bit of "stuff" stuck to the block. Is there something I can do to make the scraping/cleaning job a little easier? The engine is still in the car.

[Zanzer]

Oh ya...2 of the craziest I've seen: I know a guy who takes the car out and guns the engine and then immediately lets off for like 20 times in a row. I know another who's method it to get the engine up to temp, drain the water, and then let it briefly run hot :tard:

Per the second method - I told him the goal was to seat the rings....not collapse them.



The weirdest method I use is to find a long downhill straightaway, get the car up to 65mph at the top of the hill, kill the engine, and then let the car coast down to around 20mph. I'll do this about 5 times. It was explained to me that this procedure exerts a pull on the pistons (back drag) instead of a push from normal combustion and helps seat rings. I'm not sure if there's any truth to it but I've done it to many engines I've rebuild and never had any issues with seating rings. I feel more comfortable with this since it's more of a non-destructive procedure than some of the others I've seen

Also, I only run the break in oil for less than 1k and then change it.

[Zanzer]

I'll be honing the cylinders in the morning. Another question... I have the head off but there's quite a bit of "stuff" stuck to the block. Is there something I can do to make the scraping/cleaning job a little easier? The engine is still in the car.

If the stuff you're talking about is the old head gasket you can get a liquid gasket remover to soak the crud with that helps loosen it up a bit.

Also, is there a ridge in the top of the cylinder walls? If there is I would recommend knocking it down with a ridge reamer before honing.

[blkfordsedan]

Make sure you use a healthy amount of cam assembly/break in lube on all the camshaft lobes. Typical break-in procedure for a new cam in an OHV motor would be an immediate sustained rpm of 2000 to 2500 for about 15 minutes. Not sure about OHC with followers, or if it even matters. I suppose that technically you should run brand new rockers on a brand new cam, but that's probably a bit anal.

[Zanzer]

X2 on the 2k for 20 minutes. Forgot about that one.

I've been building alot of roller motors lately and it's kinda made me lazy LOL

[blkfordsedan]

This thread got me thinking about it as well. Except for the Festiva, every other car I have (that I currently drive) has a roller cam. That reminded me of the issues of reduced levels of Zinc/Phosphorus levels in motor oils (beginning in Jan 2007) and issues with flat tappet engines. I think I'll start a separate thread in the General Discussion forum...................

[perucho]

^ That's why I only use 15w-40

[bhazard]

Diesel oil FTW. I think Rotella T Synthetic still has ZDDP and its 5w-40.

[1988redfordfestiva]

hey your best guess if u wana know ask the powerblock tv show they will tell you watching it right now since i'm off from work today

[NovaSS]

high idle and get it up to temp quick ( no garden hose in radiator ) run for a few minutes, shut it down check for leaks and damage. Let cool and fire it up and drive under very slight load for 1/2 hour, let it cool, recheck everything and drive. after 200 miles beat on it.

or just do what these guys do....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eo-9Io41bt8

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r3m8mN-ZYa0

[blkfordsedan]

Diesel oil FTW. I think Rotella T Synthetic still has ZDDP and its 5w-40.

From what I have read, Rotella T also had to reduce the ZDDP. Chevron Delo is supposed to be the new stuff to use. There may be issues with ash deposits when using high levels of ZDDP (like in diesel oil) in modern cars with O2 sensors & cat converters. I started a thread in General Discussion forum where I posted a link to some info.