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  • Rebuilding manual steering racks?

    I'm probably going to find that I have at least two bad or questionable steering racks. Lux's boots have been ripped for awhile (before I knew to check) and AquaMutt's were long gone when I bought her.

    Turning them in for rebuilds at almost $300 a pop is not my idea of cheap!

    Has anyone rebuilt these things and if so, where did you get your kit or parts you needed?

    I know where to get the boots and inner tie rods, etc., but not any interior parts. Rockauto did not seem to have much and I asked at AZ today (the answer was no).

    My next step is to call Roger at FMS, but is there anywhere else to check?

    Also, how hard are our racks to rebuild? (I think the shop manual has the instructions but I want to hear from someone who has done it.)

    Thanks,

    Karl
    '93GL "Prettystiva" ticking B3 and 5 speed, backup DD; full swaps in spring!
    '91L "AquaMutt" my '91L; B6 swap/5 speed & Aspire brakes, DD/work car
    '92L "Twinstiva" 5sp, salvage titled, waiting for repairs...
    '93GL "Luxstiva," '94 B6 engine & ATX; needs overhauled
    '89L "Muttstiva," now a storage bin, future trailer project

  • #2
    Mine is a manual rack and I have read through the manual. I have not done mine yet though I will soon due to no preload.

    The procedure is straight forward. Because it is a manual gear, when I do pull it and rebuild I plan on only replacing the tie rods and boots. Carefully removing the seals, with the proper tool, I plan on reusing them. The manual gear does not have high pressure and the seals do more to keep stuff out than keeping grease in.

    Be careful to center the rack before sliding the pinion in with the spacers etc. I've rebuilt steering racks in the past and plan on doing mine in my garage without any special tools other than what I have acquired over the years as a Ford and Heavy truck mechanic.

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    • #3
      Thanks Jm!

      What do you mean by "preload?"

      Also, I have no "special tools" since I've never been a "real" mechanic of any kind. Do you think I might have problems if I remove the seals and get into the innards?

      Karl
      '93GL "Prettystiva" ticking B3 and 5 speed, backup DD; full swaps in spring!
      '91L "AquaMutt" my '91L; B6 swap/5 speed & Aspire brakes, DD/work car
      '92L "Twinstiva" 5sp, salvage titled, waiting for repairs...
      '93GL "Luxstiva," '94 B6 engine & ATX; needs overhauled
      '89L "Muttstiva," now a storage bin, future trailer project

      Comment


      • #4
        im curious as well, what is preload, and what are the symtons of a (going) bad R&P?

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        • #5
          Every car I have seems to have good steering, but I'm wanting to replace/rebuild racks while engines are out in order to cut down on any later work (taking an engine out simply to replace a rack). I know that some of my cars had/have ripped or missing boots and I figure there has been too much crap gotten into them. On the other hand, Twinstiva had ripped boots, but she sat in a drive for many years and I put on new boots soon after I had her running, so I think she'll be fine.

          Lux has had hers ripped for some time and she has over 215K miles, so I'm wanting to replace hers.

          The new car, Aqua, has ripped ones. The old Mutt's rack may be just fine for all I know.

          Karl
          '93GL "Prettystiva" ticking B3 and 5 speed, backup DD; full swaps in spring!
          '91L "AquaMutt" my '91L; B6 swap/5 speed & Aspire brakes, DD/work car
          '92L "Twinstiva" 5sp, salvage titled, waiting for repairs...
          '93GL "Luxstiva," '94 B6 engine & ATX; needs overhauled
          '89L "Muttstiva," now a storage bin, future trailer project

          Comment


          • #6
            Safety Guy, don't have to remove the engine to remove the rack.
            '93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
            '93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
            '92 Aqua parts Car
            '93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
            '90 White LX Thanks to FB71

            "Your God of repentance will not save you.
            Your holy ghost will not save you.
            Your God plutonium will not save you.
            In fact...
            ...You will not be saved!"

            Prince of Darkness -1987

            Comment


            • #7
              Yeah, but I'm removing engine for total brake and fuel line replacement, etc.

              Rehabbing as much as possible at once!

              Karl
              '93GL "Prettystiva" ticking B3 and 5 speed, backup DD; full swaps in spring!
              '91L "AquaMutt" my '91L; B6 swap/5 speed & Aspire brakes, DD/work car
              '92L "Twinstiva" 5sp, salvage titled, waiting for repairs...
              '93GL "Luxstiva," '94 B6 engine & ATX; needs overhauled
              '89L "Muttstiva," now a storage bin, future trailer project

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Pu241 View Post
                Safety Guy, don't have to remove the engine to remove the rack.
                John,
                You are absolutely correct. You do NOT have to remove the motor to swap a rack. Definately would understand rebuilding the rack while a motor was out, but no need to remove the motor for that particular job.
                ENFORCER - Midwest Festiva Inc., Iowa

                #1 '90 Sport to modified Lx - RollazX
                #2 .....Cheesehead
                #3 '91 White - Donor Car
                #4 .....Montana Project
                SOLD----Levistiva for $1500
                Bought her back for $450
                Now that's darn near priceless!!

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                • #9
                  Just found this rack and pinion seal kit from AZ:



                  Looks like replacing seals won't be a problem!

                  Oops! That's for an Aspire. I wonder if any seals would interchange? Time to compare Aspire and Festiva racks I guess. They shouldn't be too different.

                  Karl
                  Last edited by Safety Guy; 05-09-2010, 10:57 AM.
                  '93GL "Prettystiva" ticking B3 and 5 speed, backup DD; full swaps in spring!
                  '91L "AquaMutt" my '91L; B6 swap/5 speed & Aspire brakes, DD/work car
                  '92L "Twinstiva" 5sp, salvage titled, waiting for repairs...
                  '93GL "Luxstiva," '94 B6 engine & ATX; needs overhauled
                  '89L "Muttstiva," now a storage bin, future trailer project

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I have an Aspire manual rack here, there appears to be no difference other than the outer tie rods look a bit different. But I would replace inner and outers anyhow if I was going through one. To answer the other question, I believe there is little to no preload on a manual rack. The adjustment is found under a removable nut looking cap, you will see a set screw and locking nut just below it. It is similar to setting the preload on the regular steering boxes found on a rear wheel drive. You just need the specs for the proper lbs. to set it at.
                    91 Festiva GL "Scrat"
                    82 Honda Goldwing GL1100i
                    85 BMW 535is "Brunhild"

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by jm75lah View Post
                      I've rebuilt steering racks in the past and plan on doing mine in my garage without any special tools other than what I have acquired over the years as a Ford and Heavy truck mechanic.
                      What proceedure/tools are you using to replace the bushings the actual rack (the shaft the inner t-rods are attached to) rides on?
                      Hotrod Forums Directory * D&D Discbrakes 61-67 Econoline Conversions
                      1988 Festy - white 5spd 1.3 * 1992 Festy - red 5spd 1.3 * 1963 Econoline 5 window pu * 1993 Dodge W250 5.9 Cummings * 94 Mustang

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                      • #12
                        Hey you guys, the seals on my tie rod ends are cracked wide open and dry, yet I detect no wear. Anybody know how to get new seals without new joints, or is that big taboo? Same story with my ball joints. Maybe the car's so light, it can't wear out joints like most?? I figure, if I keep these old ones on and still can't detect free play next year, it must a been the right decision - especially in these times when $50 means a lot to me. Conversely, if I am wearing out tires and can't tell why, that's another story. Mainly just want to know if you are aware of seals sold separately.
                        Little Red Car

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