First Time Head Gasket Replacement 1988 1.3l

[1988redfordfestiva]

Here a great idea get a temp read out gun and point it to the things that might be the issue hey for $25 at harbor freight you can't go wrong ..
Anyways i have one and just remembered that's what i used when i was having my fan issue..
also if u get a great deal of time what kind of water pump did u put in ?

[Ohh!]

I think Mike McKown has a good point, but you said you removed the thermostat and it made it worse. You should drop the radiator hoses and flush the radiator. Probably good idea to flush the block too. The thermostat will hinder the flow but crap should still come out if you flush from the bottom. Check all your pipes for corrosion (bulging at hose clamp). Maybe your core/freeze plugs have built up corrosion limiting coolant flow through the block? I just pulled some steel ones from an old datsun, had like 5mm build up. water pump given up? but you saw coolant flowing. ... definitely flush it man

[Mike McKown]

I don't believe it would be a fan problem either. The engine shouldn't get hot enough to turn the fan on, not that the fan could do any good at highway speeds.

I read the OP put in a new thermostat, but I believe the thermostat may be his problem.

There's two places in the cooling system for the engine to discharge heat. One is the radiator, the other is the heater. Engine coolant won't flow through the radiator is the thermostat is stuck but it will flow just fine through the heater. Not enough flow though to keep the engine cool.

[kartracer46]

One day you can run down the interstate at 75 mph and the engine stays cool, the next day, it overheats. Doesn't sound like a clogged radiator to me.

I agree, the cooling fan and switch need to be diagnosed first before looking for a clogged radiator.

[Mike McKown]

One day you can run down the interstate at 75 mph and the engine stays cool, the next day, it overheats. Doesn't sound like a clogged radiator to me.

[kartracer46]

well if the radiator is clogged, It is better to replace it. Ebay has some generic versions for like $80 shipped or McParts stores have them for $120 or so. A shop will charge more to take it apart and rod it out than it's worth.

CLR is good for rust and iron deposits from running with lack of good antifreeze, but it will not sufficiently remove lime, calcium and flouride deposits. It's a good temporary fix, but it will not solve the long term effects. Once you get the system corrected then be sure to run good antifreeze and add some MACS13 from NAPA to get the inside of the block reconditioned.

[1988redfordfestiva]

Well if your fan isn't turning on the sensor on the intake is no good usually happens on the stock festy motor and if its over heating take the radiator out run it out with a hose and cold water next your gonna want to go to home cheapo or lowes and get some C_L_R cap both ends of radiator and fill with C_L_R then put the radiator cap on it lay it down for about 10 to 15 mins then shake the radiator the CLR will break up any corrosion from any passages that the coolant has clogged up anyways after you drain the CLR into a clean pale if you have some nasty stuff you'll see it.
Hey its the best thing i ever used and my radiator is nice and clean give it a try...

[kartracer46]

If you have a local radiator shop handy you can take it out and they can flow test it, not certain what they will charge for the service? Or you can take the radiator out, place the cap on it, use an old rag or sock place the end of a garden hose in the top inlet, wrap the rag around the hose so it makes a bit of a seal, then turn the hose on and see how the water comes out of the bottom or outlet of the radiator. If it looks consistant to the flow of the hose and it's not trying to push the rag seal off of the hose then the flow is pretty good and should be OK. If you get very little water and the pressure is bleeding by the rag and trying to push the hose back out the radiator is plugged and will need replaced. This is just a quick test that I use. It's not perfect but it will check flow and flush some debris from the cores while testing.

[worfdog]

Sounds like it may be plugged to me. Take it out and have it flow tested.

[yogaslackers]

It heats up so the coolant is boiling in the overflow then it is like 2 liters low.

As long as I run the heater it stays below Half on the gage.

Is this the sign of a plugged radiator?

[Mike McKown]

You need to find out if it's really overheating or just moving the gauge over to the hot mark.

See if you can run it with the radiator cap off when it indicates hot and see what happens. If it doesn't boil over, it's NOT TOO hot.

If it really is hot, does the coolant look dirty or muddy? Have bubbles in it? Is it losing coolant?

You shouldn't even need a fan as long as you're on the interstate.

[yogaslackers]

thx for quick post.

runs at 1/3 over c on gage with heat on full blast. if i turn the heat off it over heats... in seconds turn the heat back on and it is super hot almost burns me.

rad plugged on the inside then?

[kartracer46]

Yeas advanced the cam sprocket one notch.
head tested no cracks new head gasket

IT IS STILL OVERHEATING wtf,

It was fine for a day ran great 75mph just past the c on the temp gage.

Day 2 running middle of gage
day 3 overheating in 25 miles of interstate driving.

I dont know what to do...

shop of maybe a cliff idk.

thoughts greatly appreciated.

With the car running, if you pull the plug off the fan switch on the thermostat housing will the fan run? If it does the fan is operating fine. Then check the fan switch by operating the car with the engine running, when the temp guage is about or just over a 1/3 of the way the fan should come on on its own. If not the fan switch will need replaced. If that all works out then the next step will be a radiator because I am afraid it is plugged with deposits. Or if it's an a/c car you may need to just remove the radiator and inspect the fins to see if they are full of oil and debris, hope fully it is that. I would check that first, to fix that issue you can soak it with purple power or another degreaser and flush the fins out till you see daylight through them. They may just be plugged off and not allowing air to pass over the core of the radiator. Let me know how that works, I don't think you'll need the cliff.LOL

[yogaslackers]

Yeas advanced the cam sprocket one notch.
head tested no cracks new head gasket

IT IS STILL OVERHEATING wtf,

It was fine for a day ran great 75mph just past the c on the temp gage.

Day 2 running middle of gage
day 3 overheating in 25 miles of interstate driving.

I dont know what to do...

shop of maybe a cliff idk.

thoughts greatly appreciated.

[Mike McKown]

Ok best I can tell there was some air in the system seems to be working now.

Thanks for all the advice. When I get some extra cash I will be sure to donate

I was going to tell you, the fan doesn't come on until the engine is actually just at operating temperature and/or a little above. The fan switch that you unplugged is grounded and when you pull the wire off, you break the ground and close the fan relay circuit.

If the car will sit and idle with the radiator cap off and it doesn't puke coolant/steam out the radiator neck, the engine is not overheating regardless of what the gauge says.

You can get the timing pretty close to right if you leave about a 1/4" of slot in the distributor adjustment showing on the top side. If you get some spark knock, back it off a little.

Are you saying you advanced the cam one tooth on the cam gear? Wordn timing belt?