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Another "rough running" thread -- please help!

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  • Another "rough running" thread -- please help!

    So I've been bending over backwards trying to figure out exactly is going on with my beloved Festiva. I've searched through the forums and have read similar posts and tried their fixes with no luck. Here's a summary of the symptoms I'm experiencing, and some of the preventive measures I've tried inducing to help:

    On all cold starts, while in park, car idles rough and struggles to stay running without foot applied to gas. If it dies, it immediately starts back up with no problems. If I give it enough gas, and then let it idle again, sometimes the idle speed goes up and down (like a roller coaster) momentarily. When gearshift switches to drive, engine begins to run worse and usually stumbles and dies. When in reverse, symptoms are even WORSE. The car sounds like it is barely able to run at all. While in first gear still, upon taking off, it usually hesitates for a few seconds before moving like it should. It should also be noted that once the car is driven for a while and is warmed up, the problems never cause the car to die. It may run a little rough, but never shuts off. CEL not coming on, no codes flashing. It's a '91 automatic with 105k on the meter. Once the car gets up to 20mph or highway speeds (65+), it runs perfect and smooth (which doesn't make me assume it's a timing issue, correct me if I'm wrong).

    It has a new PCV valve, new plugs (Bosch +4's), new wires (Bosch), new O2 sensor (Bosch) new distributor cap and rotor and air filter. Old plugs were Champion copper's, the ends were white (but not ashy). The battery was checked and determined to be going out, it's having problems keeping proper voltage and one of the terminals is starting to get corroded. All fluids are clean, gas tank is nearly empty, so I will be running Seafoam through it tomorrow and filling up with Shell gasoline.

    I checked voltage at all the sensors, checked for vacuum leaks, sprayed the throttle body and air intake with cleaner, cleaned out all the crankcase hoses and can NOT figure out what else it could be. Maybe it's so obvious I'm completely missing it! (Unless it's the battery).

    Coolant temperature sensor perhaps? Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated.
    http://www.slashnerd.com

  • #2
    If its EFI maybe one of the injectors is faulty? I have that problem with one of my 95 festys right now. I'm not to concerned yet but yeah if its efi I would put my money on that
    Fun and Festy!
    www.zappascomputers.com.au
    My Festy, My Girls Festy and My Hillman Minx

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    • #3
      I would check the plugs. Even though I've had good luck in my 90 with Bosch plats, The folks at AutoZone said they had more issues with the +4's than any of their plugs.
      I"m currently running +2's in mine but a lot of people on here recommend NGK. After re-reading your post, Have you checked the cold idle speed? Also, I would check the coil, both hot and cold try to ohm it out with a volt/ohm meter.
      Jerry
      Team Lightning



      Owner of Team Lightning
      90 L "Peewee" B6D. Bought new May 16,1990
      92 L Thunder BP G5M-R Turbo B6T electronics. Jan 2016 FOTM winner SOLD
      93 L Lightning. BP



      Not a user of drugs or alcohol, Just addicted to Festiva's

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      • #4
        Did you gap the new plugs? How do they look now after being in there for a while? I like to use a cheap vaccum guage for diagnosis. It helps distinguish between fuel and spark problems, also points to problems with engine condition and exhaust blockage. See the "sticky" at the top of the forum.
        Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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        • #5
          Try using non-ethanol fuel, mid grade if you can. My 88 HATES ethanol-laced fuel. It sputters and putts around until I give it a lot of gas and then it runs alright, but I can immediately tell when I use non-ethanol. It cranks right up, and drives fine.
          In love with a MadScientist!:thumbright:
          There's a fine line between breathtaking ingenuity and "That's the stupidest thing I've ever seen!"

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          • #6
            I use non-ethanol fuel, and the Bosch +4's were pregapped at .40. I think the 1.3L gap range is .38 to .44? I bought NGK V-Power's (will replace tomorrow), put some Seafoam into the crankcase and fuel tank and will see what happens from there.
            http://www.slashnerd.com

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            • #7
              Put the NGK's in, gapped to 45, replaced the spark plug wires...still no change. As said in my other post, it appears as though I have a dead cylinder now. The #4 cylinder shows 20-30 pounds dry and 0 pounds wet...any ideas? I have yet to do a leak-down test, will probably do that next if no one has any suggestions. I can let the car idle, unhook the wire for that cylinder, and the engine performance does not change at all.

              I really don't look forward to taking the head off...I've never done it, and I don't like the idea of a $900 bill for it.
              http://www.slashnerd.com

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              • #8
                Replacing a bad valve would not require removing the head, just the valve cover. I'd start there. When I removed the valve cover on my Festiva there was a lot of black soot on the underside over the #3 valve indicating the exhaust valve was leaking. I was able to clean it with by adding chemical cleaner to the oil and raise the compression back to normal. I don't know if the leaking you have could be due to valves as it looks like a pretty big leak. I think if it were a cracked block you might see low compression in two adjacent cylinders. If it were worn rings you would likely see smoke coming out the exaust. I would re-do the compression to doube check before taking anything apart. If you did the compression from left to right #4 was done last and might have had a problem with the test.
                Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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