CV Joint Replacement

[jokoza57]

I have a 88 festy and I get the clicking as I make turns and I know it is the CV Joints......So what procedure does one use to remove both sides and replace them?

Thanks for the Help Guys.....

jokoza57

[1988redfordfestiva]

replace the whole axle new is like $55 and the core is like $45 so it worth replacing the whole thing but when u turn which side is it if both then they are both due for a change if they are the originals

[1988redfordfestiva]

i have 2 that are bran new i need to get rid of plus a lot of goodies for an 88 festiva motor trans u name it i got it

[doylerl]

Carefully and ONE AT A TIME! If you take out both at the same time, one of the gears falls down inside the transmission and you have to take it apart to fix it.

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

If the car has high mileage and/or you've seen evidence of leakage, you might consider a precautionary replacement of the seals on the gearbox while you're in there. Much easier if it's on a lift!

[WmWatt]

Basically you have to remove the axle nut and tap on the end of the axle to loosen it from the hub, then loosen the stabilizer bar and remove the pinch bolt on the control arm and drop the arm so you can turn the wheel and pull the axle out of the hub, tying it up with wire or string so it doesn't hang. Then gently pry the other end out of the transmission. Installation is reverse of removal. The axle nut can be difficult to remove and may take a pipe extension on the ratchet for leverage.

[Pu241]

i have 2 that are bran new i need to get rid of plus a lot of goodies for an 88 festiva motor trans u name it i got it

How do you know they will fit as Jokoza57 didn't tell us if he had an ATX or manual?

Carefully and ONE AT A TIME! If you take out both at the same time, one of the gears falls down inside the transmission and you have to take it apart to fix it.

True for the manual, but doesn't matter for the ATX.

If the car has high mileage and/or you've seen evidence of leakage, you might consider a precautionary replacement of the seals on the gearbox while you're in there. Much easier if it's on a lift!

2x's that, even without high mileage, seals degrade over time. and these seals are 22+ yrs old.
Note left and right seals are different!

[wybnrml]

How do you know they will fit as Jokoza57 didn't tell us if he had an ATX or manual?

1988's were only manuals.

[Pu241]

^^^
You may well be correct on that!

But, with the swaps going back and forth between manual and ATX, it would have been go info to have!

[wybnrml]

But, with the swaps going back and forth between manual and ATX, it would have been go info to have!

True, assuming it's original.

[wildfan17]

so i am pulling the engine and trany out of my 91, we pulled both axels out of the tranny, so did one of my gears fall down now and i will have to tear into the tranny also?

[Pu241]

No, doesn't always happen, unless the tranny is jarred, dropped, generally mishandled.
Just slip one of the axles back in and doesn't even have to lock in.
Just hope its not too late.

[wildfan17]

i will slip one back in after we get the engine pulled out. they didnt come out too easily, but there wasnt any sounds like a gear dropping or anything. we have to try rebuilding the engine anyway so if the tranny is messed up too i can just use that car for a bigger engine swap. I figure the engine is already broke us trying to fix it cant do any more damage to it, and it will be good experience

[Pu241]

Not to make too fine a point of it, but before you start to pull the engine/tranny is the best time pop in the short axle, doesn't matter if it was the side it came out of or not.
Then just tie it in place.
As I said doesn't even need to be "locked" in place, just needs to keep the side gears in place.
Just hate for you to loose a usable tranny from something that is preventable.
Good luck with your rebuild.
Might want to consider adding your location to your profile you might find one or members close by willing to help out!

Go to User CP (top of the Page in the blue bar)
Control Panel(left side of screen)
Edit Profile-scroll to bottom of page to location.

[GenevaDirt]

Basically you have to remove the axle nut and tap on the end of the axle to loosen it from the hub, then loosen the stabilizer bar and remove the pinch bolt on the control arm and drop the arm so you can turn the wheel and pull the axle out of the hub, tying it up with wire or string so it doesn't hang. Then gently pry the other end out of the transmission. Installation is reverse of removal. The axle nut can be difficult to remove and may take a pipe extension on the ratchet for leverage.

Never had to tap the end of the axle myself....only once so far I have had to pry one out...but have seen numerous postings that others have always done it. The only bolt I undo is the pinch bolt....and of course the axle nut. I pry the stabilizer bar down by putting a pry bar up under the frame where the LCA is bolted in. Sometimes I have to persuade the stabilizer a little bit with a hammer and then pry down. Has always worked great for me....plenty of room to remove the axle.

Note left and right seals are different!

John....I have always used the same seal on both sides...no one at the parts store has ever asked me which side. But always change them when replacing axles...cheap enough and you do not have to tear it all apart again when the old ones leak because you wanted to save the money.