SPANK is up and running again! ROUGH

[doylerl]

Ok, so many of you know I have been battling with my ignition modules. I have replaced the disty several times, and it kept blowing the module inside! Well, I think I narrowed the problem down to the wires that go from the module to the coil. Well, I got about 6 old distys from Tony on here, and was able to rob pieces from each of them and crimp new ends onto the wires to get it going again. Well, after cranking for a minute or so, it finally fired up. It is running kinda rough in my opinion. I set the idle to about 900RPM, but between 1k-2k it shakes the whole car, and when I first go to give it gas, it pops, like it is running (rich?). Is it possible that in all the hassle I got some plug wires mixed around, or would it not even run like that? Also, it has been sitting for 4-5 months with 1/2 tank of gas in it. Could the gas already be going bad? I don't want to risk breaking down on my way to the station to fill it up with fresh gas, if this would not be a likely issue. Any help on this would be great. Thanks again.

[Festiva Time]

Go back and set your engine to TDC, install the disty, check each plug wire for damage & proper order, and readjust the Disty for about 5 degrees of advance. Fire it up. I have used gasoline that was a year old without any real problems.

[Pu241]

If you mixed up the spark-plug wires i doubt it would start.
As far as the gas goes, the 10% Ethanol gas (aka crapoline) has a shelf life of somewhere around 3 months, depending upon storage conditions.
Hot and humid is bad, cool and dry is better.

FWIW, I'd dump the recommended amount of Seafoam, Drygas, or Isoheet (whatever brand is handy) in the tank to bind to the moisture I'm sure that's in the tank/gas and then fill it up. I'm sure after you burn out that tank the next will run better.
But you might want to check and cleanup your plugs, cap, and rotor just to be sure that part of your ignition system is OK.
Up date us on its status as you go!

[doylerl]

Forgot to mention... NEW: plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil. It hasn't been ran with these parts installed, so I'm sure they should be good. I will go back and recheck, but I don't know what could have happened. It is the 10% crapoline though, so I will add some kind of additive to it as well. I'm just excited that it is breathing again, even if it is coughing... Thanks for the advice everyone.

[doylerl]

I have some STP Gas Treatment that says "Improves Quality of Gas!" on the bottle. Do you think that would work? Also, should I pour a little into the carb first, or just let it circulate through the tank for a few minutes?

[Pu241]

I have some STP Gas Treatment that says "Improves Quality of Gas!" on the bottle. Do you think that would work?

Based upon the STP gas treatment MSDS I would have to say no.

http://www.thecloroxcompany.com/products/msds/armorallstp/stpgastreatment.pdf

You'd be looking for Methanol, but preferably Isopropanol as a major component of the product you want to bind to the moisture/water that may well have accumulated in your partially filled gas tank over the time it has been sitting!

[doylerl]

Ok, well, I just took it around the block... or should I say tried to take it around the block. The brakes are sticking a little bit, so 1st gear wound out at about 10mph. No big deal, so I shifted to 2nd. It died. So, I fired it back up and turned back around toward the house. Wound out at about 10mph shifted to second, it died and I coasted to the curb in front of the house. It fired right back up, but I don't think it should just die like that.

[Pu241]

Does it rev OK in neutral, if you mash on the gas?

[doylerl]

It runs fine at idle 900-1100, but between 1100 to 2000 it shakes really bad. After 2000 it idles smooth again. This is while in neutral.

[Pu241]

Sounds like maybe you're not firing on all cylinders!
When it ideling, and you already know your idel is a bit high, pull a spark plug wire off.
If the cylinder is firing it may well die on you.
When you come to one, if you come to one, that when you pull the plug it doesn't change anything then you have found your weak/none firing cylinder.

[doylerl]

Will that shock the *&^% out of me?

[Pu241]

Yes, if your grounded and your wires are "bleeding" voltage!
But you said your wires are new!
Besides 40-60K volts doesn't hurt that much!

But, just in case wear a set of dry leather gloves and try not to stand in a puddle when you do this.
Really, just keep your hand, and any other body part, away from the "business" end of the sparkplug wire and you should be OK.

[doylerl]

Besides 40-60K volts doesn't hurt that much!

Right... lol. I have been shocked by 110 enough to hurt for a minute, but 40-60K would probably knock me on my butt!

But, just in case wear a set of dry leather gloves and try not to stand in a puddle when you do this.

I will try to remember this when I'm out there...

Anyway, thanks for the tips, but around here it starts to get dark around this time, so I will check back in and update you guys in the morning.

[michael11]

You can also use one of these:
http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/p...s/?product=319
"Made of glass-filled nylon for shock resistance and extra strength"

[Pu241]

Right... lol. I have been shocked by 110 enough to hurt for a minute, but 40-60K would probably knock me on my butt!

The house current and voltage as well as its frequency are more dangerous when you consider that your typical house circuit probably has a 15 or 20 amp breaker on it, meaning way more current than the typical automotive ignition system. But another danger is the house currents 60 hertz frequency which if passed across/through the heart can stop it.
That is a bad thing.
Don't get me wrong, you'll know you've been grabbed by the 40+ K volts out of the coil, but it's not as dangerous as house current in my mind!
Carpet generated electric shocks are 20 to 30K volts, just for reference.