89 Clutch Replacement?

[hand101]

Got a Festiva pretty cheep. Done ALOT of basic work to it. brakes, ign mod, plugs, etc and now when i drive it, it takes alot of RPM's to really get it to move. Is this my clutch going/gone out? Also feels like it is towing a 20k lb trailer. Clutch?
I live in SE Iowa if that helps if anyone is near.
If it is clutch how easy is it?
Pull wheels
Pull Axles (both?)

Now can i get tranny out with little effort?
Im a "back yard/shade tree wrench" and can do most myself but have never messed with a clutch.

Any info would be awesome because I would really like to get this little "booger" road worthy.

Thanks

Jhand101

[Pu241]

SE Iowa, is a little vague.

And putting your location in your profile, as below, will save you from having to add your location to other posts.

Go to User CP (top of the Page in the blue bar)
Control Panel(left side of screen)
Edit Profile-scroll to bottom of page to location.

There are a number of knowledgeable members in IA, so an accurate location can be useful to you and those member who may want to come by and help you.
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[hand101]

thanks for the info
i live in Mount Pleasant Iowa.
thanks

[JoDan]

Pulling the tranny out of this little car is a no-brainer you got it just watch to see what your taking off so it goes back on right and you'll have it out in no time

[blkfordsedan]

it takes alot of RPM's to really get it to move. Is this my clutch going/gone out? Also feels like it is towing a 20k lb trailer. Clutch?

Just out of curiosity, are you sure you don't have a rear brake or front caliper dragging? A quick way to tell if a clutch is slipping is to put it in 3rd or 4th gear with the parking brake set. When you let out on the clutch it should kill the engine. If the clutch is shot, it will start slipping and the motor will stay running. One word of warning, if the car has been sitting for a while and the parking brake is not stuck, it probably will be after you set it. I would make sure the cables move free before setting it. Obviously, you can also jack each wheel up off the ground and turn them by hand to see if the brake is dragging.

[hand101]

blkfordsedan
hey thanks for that advice...you know i may have rears dragging...i did just put new fronts on and when i had it up on jacks it ran fine with wheels off as i had put it in gear and let it free run. never thought about the rears being stuck untill you said that. I will have to check on that if i have time. i do remember that if i pull on the parking brake lever there is no pressure and it pulls really easy...will try jacking up rears and see if they spin freely.
thanks

[Pu241]

Good call blkfordsedan, the rear drum emergency brake mechanism is notorious for locking up.
First step can be done by sliding under the back of the car and follow the e-brake cable to the backing plate.
Then push the mechanism that the cable is attached, to try and get it to release.
Might have push pretty hard.
Do that for both sides.
If it "breaks free" your on easy street.
Whether it breaks free or not, in order to fix it right you are going to have to pull the drum off and extract the e-brake mechanism to which is also attached the auto adjuster.
There is a rivet that hold the assembly together and the assembly should freely move around this rivet.
Over time and bad road conditions it seizes up and has to be "PB blasted" into freeing up.
Then cleaned and lubed to permit freedom of movement when reinstalled.
Good luck.
suggestion: do one side at a time and take pics for your reference.

[Festiva Time]

Great insight about brake drag causing the problem. No one mention adjusting the clutch. Never assume! It could be the front brakes not releasing. With one of the front wheels off the ground, trans in neutral, hand turn that tire several turns. It should move with a little effort. Repeat with other side.

[hand101]

hello and thanks for the info and help

father in law and i both looked at it today and tried driving it around. the rears are locked up and also the clutch is pretty much gone. The motor stays running in all gears with clutch out and we heard a clunk and a grinding sound in the rear when getting it to move.

Question now is what clutch do you guys suggest? want to make sure I get good one that lasts and pretty easy to install as I have NEVER done clutch work before.

Also any friendly suggestion would be great on how to change the clutch would be great also.

Thanks

[blkfordsedan]

Before you ever turn a wrench, buy a Hayne's manual. It will prove to be invaluable.

Personally, I would pull the engine & transaxle out as an assembly, but I've heard you can split them and leave the Transaxle in the car. Someone on here has done that before and can chime in.

With the motor out, I would replace the water pump & timing belt as well. If the seals are leaking, it would be a good time to replace the front & rear main seals and the oil pan gasket. If its a stock B3 daily driver, I would get an Exedy stock replacement clutch kit. It's the same brand the factory used and can be found local or on Ebay. LUK or SACHS are good as well. Just make sure to get the kit with new pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bearing and install tool. I would also take the flywheel in to a machinist to get resurfaced and checked for scoring & cracks. If you know what you're looking for and have a sander/grinder, you can skip this expense and do it yourself.

All this info will be in the Haynes manual. Follow the directions & pictures and you'll be fine.

[JoDan]

I just pulled my engine out today and left the tranny in the car. Just remember to get every bolt out of the bell housing including the little 10mm bolts and I lifted on the chain closer to the crank pulley side and used a crow bar to separate. Be careful not to get caught on the input shaft while taking out cause I ended up bending a fin on the pressure plate, but if your replacing it, then it isn't that big of a deal. I would also get someone to help you when your pulling because I did mine by myself and its hard to operate the hoist and try to steer clear of everything at the same time.

[apintonut]

Before you ever turn a wrench, buy a Hayne's manual. It will prove to be invaluable.

Personally, I would pull the engine & transaxle out as an assembly, but I've heard you can split them and leave the Transaxle in the car. Someone on here has done that before and can chime in.

if u take a 4x4 cut it so that u have 2 lengths that set on the inner finder lip and a 4x4 that connects them so that u have a I shape then place a screw sizer jack on top of it then use a chain to the front of engine over the the jack and to the back of the engine u can lift the engine with out a hoist slide it to the right and replace the clutch (ive dont this on allot of nissans and a few hondas)

i once considered patenting this built out of steel and adjustable with a sliding jack to so all front wheel drive cars

[GenevaDirt]

I think the easiest way is pulling engine and tranny together then doing the job out of the car.....but it is pretty easy to pull the engine and leave the tranny in the car.
Unless you have access to a lift I would try it from underneath. I hate working under the car on my back with limited room.

Replace all that you can while the engine is out of the car....very easy to do then and not too expensive. Once done it should all last a LONG time.