DIY Alignment

[ericsmith32]

For that you need camber bolts. Camber bolts replace the top bolt where the wheel assembly connects to the struts. Gives you up to 1 degree of camber. It's best to go to the alignment shop.

[brickdog2000]

So it would be cheaper to go to the alignment shop?

[ericsmith32]

In the long run yes. I'd make sure everything is done first unless you get a lifetime alignment plan.

[Safety Guy]

"Cheaper in the long run?"

If you're running really cheap used tires that you long to experiment with, do what you will!

If you just dropped more than $100 on some tires and want them to last awhile, I'd go to the shop and have them do an alignment.

For example, I'll be experimenting with a bubble balancer and a set of used 175/70-13s. Two came with my car and two were about $28 from the 'yard. I'll be keeping watch via a tread depth gauge.

I recently bought two new 165/70-12s for my '92L that cost me about $110 shipped to my door. I took them to the shop to have them spin balanced and mounted on the front after an alignment. I'm not willing to "experiment" with new tires, even "cheap" ones. Not until I see how well the bubble balancer works!

Karl

[brickdog2000]

safety guy let me know how it goes. My tires are still fairly brand new but they do have some decent wear on the inside tread.

[FFW]

For that you need camber bolts. Camber bolts replace the top bolt where the wheel assembly connects to the struts. Gives you up to 1 degree of camber. It's best to go to the alignment shop.

Sort of digged this up....

Getting good wear on my outside front tires (positive) Shop place told me i need new camber key up front. Asking $110 labor and alignment not included of course. Checked out some youtube videos on how to install but bit lost on RockAuto of where to order it from (if anyone can point me on the right direction to buy it). Plan to buy and install my self and just take it somewhere to get align properly.

[nitrofarm]

[QUOTE=ericsmith32;355222] - both the same with a little bit of toe in. I guess this is normal?

Yes you alwayswant some TOE IN for the rear.The reason is casue over bumps etc one tire is always be trying to centerthe car.(feels much more stable) If it were zero or toe'd out.The car would feel real loose. (especially on uneven/varying road surface.

I do this all of the time but I use a much different method. I set the camber using a flat chunk of bar square tube I cut to set on the both edges of the wheel and a magnetic based analog angle finder from harbor freight. I then set the toe using an adjustable paint roller handle from lowes (I trimmed it for the small wheel base) I attached a nylon tape to it so I can obtain a measurement. I extend it out to the inside of each wheel on the flat lip and take a measurement from the front and back of the wheel. I take the measurement and and subtract the two, then divide by two to get what the needed change is to get a static zero reading, then adjust a tiny bit of two out due to its a front wheel drive and the drive wheels pull in under acceleration. BTW for the camber on my car I had to change the bolt size and machine a wedge to get a zero measurement, but on my festy I have bigger front springs (heavier weight), aspire front end and did not cut my springs.

Dude this sounds very much the way to go.You always want to go off the rim if possible. Please post your pics so others can see.

[Safety Guy]

Just for Brickdog, my bubble balancing didn't go too well and so I took it in to Walmart to have my other tires balanced. My HF bubble balancer just didn't seem to be very repeatable. I'll need to try another brand or an older one someday.

Karl