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  • Radiator Fan relay question

    Ok, fan started not coming on couple weeks ago, right when my puter had committed ritual suicide so I couldnt come here and search.

    I first started checking all the fuses, I pulled the turn signal fuse and fan came on and ran all the time plus as a bonus my turn signals then no longer worked. I put fuse back and temporarily ran wire to passenger compartment to manually turn fan on and off.

    Figure has to be relay, cant find it, supposedly someplace behind left headlight, but dont see anything that looks like the replacement. Plus as a bonus the replacement is like $65. WTF, its a simple relay for pete's sake not a gold coin.

    I get $5 generic 40A relay like one would use when you add fog lights or such. I wire it up making my own independent circuit. The trigger circuit goes between + on coil and grounded to fan switch. Fan runs all the time cold and I didnt even try it hot. Figure the switch has to be bad. But switch and relay going out at same time, seems highly unlikely. The engine is originally out of a 323 so hunt around and find the old 323 thermostat housing and take switch out of it. Finally it works right.

    However after getting back online and looking at some posts here seems the original Festiva fan switch was probably still ok, it just is closed when cold, then opens up, and open solenoid in relay sends current via that 5th terminal. In other words when I turn the key on, the ignition coil is powered, which closes the solenoid in the relay, since the Festiva fan switch is closed when cold. Thus fan is off. When switch opens, it unpowers the solenoid and the relay goes to default position powering the fan on. The 323 fan switch for whatever reason is opposite and closes when coolant temp gets hot.

    Have I got that right? Thus with OEM Festiva setup, the fan is on by default so if fan switch fails or the solenoid in the relay fails? But this also means fan hot wire that relay switches on and off to the fan has to also be only hot when ignition is on? Otherwise the relay would have to be powered with solenoid closed whether car is running or not and slowly drain the battery. I suppose one could combine two relays so first relay provides power to the second relay when ignition is on. Second relay by default powers the fan when solenoid is open.

    Hmm, this maybe more failsafe but seems lot more complex. And not so failsafe if the first relay fails. Instead of two relays, about have to hook into a circuit that has enough capacity to power the fan, but that is on only when ignition is on. And I suppose thats how Festiva was designed, it gets power for fan from circuit that powers the turn signals which is a switched circuit that is only hot when key is on???

    I see the logic obviously, but it wasnt so failsafe in my case, when relay failed, the fan did not come on constantly. Maybe some other wiring failed too? Not sure it wouldnt be about same difference at this point to wire in a manual over ride switch to the dash that if fan doesnt come on, you flip the manual switch to turn it on. Or just gamble. I mean the Festiva seems to have been designed so unless you really push it, in most circumstances the radiator tends to keep engine cool enough to prevent self destruction even without fan. I mean it took a bit for me discover fan wasnt coming on originally, first noticed coolant temp gauge showed higher temps than usual after driving up my steep hill. Then listened for the fan and didnt hear it. On some cars I would have fried the engine by this time.

  • #2
    You lost me about half way through
    lol
    i can tell you where the relay is though
    took me forever to find it myself
    it's behind the drivers side headlight
    you will find it alot easier if you take the battery out
    i also removed my coolant overflow tank just for easier access
    it's bolted to the inner panel behind the headlight and below a 1" thick bundle of wires
    i had similar problems with the fan not coming on
    after test after test after test
    i have determined that the problem lies in my thermoswitch... at least i think it is ... i will find out wednesday-friday when we get the money to order one
    not sure if that helps other than to help you locate the relay

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    • #3
      At this point it works and think I will leave it like it is. After thinking about it, not lot reason to try and go back and do it the factory way. After all the factory method wasnt so failsafe as it left my fan non-functional when it did fail. Thanks for hint though, just out of curiosity think I will look and see if I can find original relay on mine. Why car manufacturers have to hide stuff like this, I really dont know. And still odd that the Festiva and 323 fan switches work exactly opposite. Think since Festiva is a Mazda design with lot Mazda or Mazda clone parts, it would be same.

      I still liked way they did the fan switch on that '77 Rabbit I had long ago. Switch screwed into radiator. Hot fused wire went to one terminal on switch, ground wire went to the other. No relays, no complicated wiring. And that switch was maybe best engineered part of the car. Cost like $7 at parts store. Never gave a lick of trouble. I made an adapter to splice this wonderous little piece of engineering into upper radiator hose on 3 or 4 other non-VW vehicles I owned over the years and never had one go bad on me or fail to work. I would have made one for the Festiva, but its hard to find a weldable steel fitting for that VW switch to screw into. Wouldnt believe it, but the best and really only fitting I ever found was end off a late 50s Dodge pickup speedometer cable. Thing is those are might hard to come by anymore. I just lucked into that discovery wandering around a junkyard looking for something it would screw into. What made me try the speedo cable, I have no idea as the old Dodge obviously didnt use metric sized anything and everything on VW was metric. The VW radiator was plastic so that didnt do any good in making an adapter. And it was just some weird oddball thread thats pretty rare.

      Course manufacturers never can leave a well engineered and cheap part alone, they have to "improve" it, usually means weaken it and shorten its life while tripling its price. I've heard modern VW fan switch setups are far more complicated and lot less robust.

      Comment


      • #4
        My relay stuck in the "on" position so the fan runs non-stop, as long as the key is on. I bought an "OEM" relay on Ebay, but when I received it, it was not for a Festiva. The car would never warm up in the winter with the fan on, so 2 years ago I just unplugged the fan. I've driven it ever since without a fan. Evan last month when it was 100+ degrees. Temp gauge barely gets over half way. Twice it started to make me nervous while waiting on road construction, so I just shut the car off. After about 2 minutes of being off, it cools back down to just below 1/2 gauge.

        When I swap in my B6, I think I'll just use an aftermarket relay and a temp adjustable switch kit. Also thought about using a relay from a 323 and the corresponding temp switch.
        Brian

        93L - 5SP, FMS springs, 323 alloys, 1st gen B6, ported head & intake, FMS cam, ported exhaust manifold w/2-1/4" head pipe.
        04 Mustang GT, 5SP, CAI, TFS plenum, 70mm TB, catted X, Pypes 304SS cat-back, Hurst Billet+ shifter, SCT/Bama tuned....4.10's & cams coming soon
        62 Galaxie 2D sedan project- 428, 3x2V, 4SP, 3.89TLOC

        1 wife, 2 kids, 9 dogs, 4 cats......
        Not enough time or money for any of them

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        • #5
          How many cables is going to the fan relay? And what colours?
          My fan only starts when I disconnect the thermoswitch.
          I've tried to have the thermoswitch connected and then connect the 2 termosensorcables at the bottom of the cooler to eachother, men the fan still wont start.

          Mazda 121 -88

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