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  • Fusible link fire...car stalls

    The other day when I went to start my car, it had no power, so I called a friend to jump with a near-new Corolla. As soon as I turned the ignition, the main fusible link caught fire. After letting the car sit for a couple hours, I came back to an odd clicking sound (kind of like a relay) coming from around the battery. Disconnected the neg. battery cable and it stopped. Stupidly, I replaced the fusible link with a 30 amp. Drove fine for 15 minutes, then the link blew. I had to replace it 5 times so I could get the car home. After that, I researched and found it needs a 40 amp fuse, so I replaced it with the proper one. The fusible link hasn't blown yet, but the car definitely seems like it lacks horsepower and it stalls at idle. Sounds like something electrics related, maybe some one else has had this problem? Thanks for any help.
    BP, Aspire brakes, stock trans.

  • #2
    could it be a huge draw on the alternator to recharge that battery? how about you disconnect the battery cables and charge it up first.
    -Zack
    Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub

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    • #3
      have you checked the other fusible links? the other 2 are 30 amps. Find that relay by the battery....make sure the wires are not fried.
      "FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
      89L Silver EFI auto
      91GL Green Auto DD
      There ain't no rest for the wicked
      until we close our eyes for good.
      I will sleep when I die!
      I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!

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      • #4
        I replaced the two 30 amp links, and noticed a few more things. When I put the key in the ignition, but don't start the car, there's a weird sound (like air running through) coming from the top of the engine toward the back. Not sure if that's normal or not. Took a look at all the wires around the battery, and everything appears to be normal. Lastly, it will run fine if the car is cold, when it warms up it starts to stall. Has me stumped. =\
        BP, Aspire brakes, stock trans.

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        • #5
          Just checked the timing belt (it's okay), changed spark plugs, and cleaned out the IAC. Same problem, it will idle fine until it gets to about normal operating temp. It then just drops way down in revs, pick back up for a bit, then die down again and stall.
          BP, Aspire brakes, stock trans.

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          • #6
            might be a bad mass airflow sensor, check all vacuum hoses also. how many miles do you have on your festy??

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            • #7
              coolant temp sensor located on the intake manifold



              I am the original

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              • #8
                I fixed the problem seemingly by adjusting the small allen screw on top of the IAC. Unscrewed it just a bit, and it idles fine and won't stall. Even still, when I drove it, I noticed it makes a weird whiny noise. Feels like I have no power, and have to push the engine way too hard. I'll check the vacuum hoses when I have time later tonight.
                BP, Aspire brakes, stock trans.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by mechanicaldj View Post
                  coolant temp sensor located on the intake manifold
                  I believe it may be this aswell. If the sensor messes up it tells the computer to retard timing because the engine is running hot, in which its not. When a engine infact does run hot the computer pulls timing in order to richen the fuel/air mixture, this making your engines performance go down. Its complicated If you really think about it hard.

                  Do you have CEL on at al?
                  89L build thread http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=36422

                  1996 subaru impreza AWD 5 speed, EJ18

                  Post your festiva pics and vids here: www.movingviolationz.com
                  My site: 20tessa.sytes.net

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                  • #10
                    always keep 30 and 40 amp fuse blocks in your glove compartment or tray.. and yes, they should be 30 amp, 40 amp, 30 amp as the order...

                    -"Hairlipstiva" 1991 GL 5spd (swapped from an auto), rolling on Enkei 14x6 +38 with 195/45/14 Toyo's, Jensen MP5720 CD deck, tach install, LED strip in cluster, down position rear wiper, FMS springs, Gabriel shocks on 4 corners, Acura Integra short shifter
                    -Escort GT 91 donor car with BP, G5M-R tranny to be dropped in the little guy...
                    -Aspire brake swap COMPLETE!
                    https://www.wunderground.com/persona...?ID=KOKOWASS38

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by ejp2fast View Post
                      always keep 30 and 40 amp fuse blocks in your glove compartment or tray.. and yes, they should be 30 amp, 40 amp, 30 amp as the order...
                      Haha, I figured and bought a few extra ones. Anyway, it idles fine now. When I drove it even further today, the power seemed to just deteriorate every minute I was driving. I had to park it, and get a ride home because after 10 or so minutes I needed to floor it just to get the car crawling, and I didn't want to abuse the engine. I noticed the car will NOT stall if I put it into gear at idle. Maybe a clutch issue? This thing is trying my patience.

                      Oh, and the CEL is not on. I tried unplugging that coolant sensor and it had no effect.
                      BP, Aspire brakes, stock trans.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by jamesmc View Post
                        .I tried unplugging that coolant sensor and it had no effect.
                        Which temp sensor did you unplug?
                        Location please.
                        As you may or may not know gauge and ECU temp sensors are different.

                        I think you may have a messed up IAC.
                        Anyone have a procedure for testing the IAC?
                        '93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
                        '93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
                        '92 Aqua parts Car
                        '93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
                        '90 White LX Thanks to FB71

                        "Your God of repentance will not save you.
                        Your holy ghost will not save you.
                        Your God plutonium will not save you.
                        In fact...
                        ...You will not be saved!"

                        Prince of Darkness -1987

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                        • #13
                          Unplugging it would be the same as the sensor being bad, but like you said there is no CEL so you can cross that off the list.
                          89L build thread http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=36422

                          1996 subaru impreza AWD 5 speed, EJ18

                          Post your festiva pics and vids here: www.movingviolationz.com
                          My site: 20tessa.sytes.net

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                          • #14
                            Sounds like a plugged converter.

                            Check to see if it it getting real hot while running.
                            Rodney

                            1991 FI 5 Speed Aqua Blue

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                            • #15
                              I had to end up taking it to a mechanic and I'm not sure what he did to fix the idle, but he did that for free so I'm guessing it was something simple (was in a rush so didn't bother to ask.) Also, he replaced the clutch, and the car now moves, and way faster then it ever has. It's great! =)
                              BP, Aspire brakes, stock trans.

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