TACH Install: Auto-Meter #2891 tachometer

[bobstad]

I've gotten an Auto-Meter 2 5/8" 6000 rpm tachometer[http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugede...arch&gid=2599] to install on my '91 Festiva L, 5-speed; and am wondering about a few things doing that?

At the pdf download: [http://www.autometer.com/productPDF/0595A.pdf]

The wire(white) to the car's lighting system isn't clear on the vehicle?

Nor is the wire(red) to the ignition switch.

Or the wire(green) to either the coil or an electronic ignition?



How do I locate the particular attachments, and how are these made?

Also, since there is need to fuse the connection to the ignition, how to do that? Is there a recommended source of such a fuse, and which brand or type is best, adequate, etc?

[apintonut]

i think its
white is back light power so it lights up at night when u have ur lights on

red is switched power so that it powers up when u turn the car on like ur radio

green is ur feed line or signal line so it know how many rpms u are doing

[bobstad]

Besides that!!!

I've also decided to mount the tach on the outside of the right side of the instrument cluster's hood; and am baffled as to how to get the bracket the tach fits in, mounted there?

This would be just above the dashboard in line of sight almost to the road and the car's center; as the best possible place, also reasonably located and securely mounted.

[bobstad]

Redundant, or what?

i think its
white is back light power so it lights up at night when u have ur lights on

red is switched power so that it powers up when u turn the car on like ur radio

green is ur feed line or signal line so it know how many rpms u are doing

I was that far myself...I have no idea how to hook up at these points however? Nice to know someone is reading at the website. Now, someone with a clue, too?

[apintonut]

well u can hook up the power line T the back of the fuse panel (after the fuse not before) then to the coil pulse side a test light will help and if u want to fuse the feed line to be safe use a 25a fuse-able link line just after the coil

[apintonut]

I was that far myself...I have no idea how to hook up at these points however? Nice to know someone is reading at the website. Now, someone with a clue, too?

im sorry where u trying to insult me? i have no problems hooking up a tach.
ur questions weren't clear. thought maybe u weren't clear as to what the lines do or where they need to go to.

if u know what the line dose and need to go to then i would think u could look at these points on ur car and find the best place to hook into them for ur applications

how ever if u are still lost i can draw u some pictures but if that is needed i would just recommend that u have some one hook it up for u.

[hofficergrover]

I ran all mine into the radio for the power ground and lights. Then used the tach wire from the gauge cluster to splice into. Then all mine were inside the car and away from the weather.

[bobstad]

I hate electronics; a spark and the fire is set!!!!!!!!!!

im sorry where u trying to insult me?

Naught at all; but, I felt like getting advice on stealing a bulldozer or road grader, skip-loader or forklift. Sorry if my dialogue is confusing, but I try to be as clear and accurate as possible.


I was supposing someone might have a clue as to how I might reach the back side of the ignition for instance, though maybe going at the fuse box could shorten the length of wires and simplify access and tearing into the dash area? I'd envisioned being able to splice into the current wiring nearest the places like the ignition or lights or coil; as diagramed in the Auto-Meter pdf?[http://www.autometer.com/productPDF/0595A.pdf] I'd wanted to see if I could follow the schematic in the Auto-Meter pdf as closely as possible, but perhaps there are alternatives?

There are obvious enough attachment points on most stock applications such as these where existing stock items like the lights, ignition and coil/or whatever are located. The problem I have is my most recent familiarity is with the German fittings on the '66 VW Type III I used to drive. More modern set-ups have me confused; or for instance I'd of already gone through the wiring with di-electric grease to get the windshield washer pump motor working again.

I try to unhook any of the fittings in the electrical system and feel like I will break them, until finally I've figured out what I'm doing, then the next one is different from the last.

And, I'm still not sure if the Festiva has an actual coil or a hybrid type of electronic ignition? The distributor didn't seem exactly like the older ones I'm most familiar with.*



*On everything from my first car, a '57 Metropolitan, and any variety since where the '67 Mustang I had from '69-'73 is the most modern vehicle besides the Festiva I've driven regularly and owned, maintained, etc.



Maybe there should be a separate forum for gauges here? I probably need to post in the interiors forum, about mounting the tach as mentioned in my second post; and probably there will be answers to other questions better there too?

[leapin]

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13262&highlight=tach

this should answer a few questions.

[festivaWES]

If you remove the speedo cluster, there should be a green wire with yellow stripe that is tach signal also.

[bobstad]

Now, to get this done well soon.

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...highlight=tach

this should answer a few questions.

Thanks, this looks good! Weekend coming up also now, so a chance to get out and take a look at things to see what can be done. Probably going to rain though...I like the white face on your tach, and think the black Auto-Meter might not be as easy to read. Do you often rev to that red-line, or near there?!!

[bobstad]

That tach wire search is going to be soon!

If you remove the speedo cluster, there should be a green wire with yellow stripe that is tach signal also.

There must be a thread or posts dealing with getting behind the instrument cluster? I have the factory service manual & the Haynes ones, so likely in there is some info also; if I can find either of them in the home front chaos?

[leapin]

Do you often rev to that red-line, or near there?!!

Everyday. I keep fresh oil in it. Just cracked 120k(200kms). Doesnt use a drop.

[bobstad]

Speaking of high revs...?

Everyday. I keep fresh oil in it. Just cracked 120k(200kms). Doesnt use a drop.

I'll probably broach the issue in the self-help repair forum, but one I've had discussed at this site previously if a few years ago; which is that when I've been driving often accelerating hard, such as when in traffic trying to avoid being run down by larger often faster vehicles, the oil seems to be sucked into the air-intake from the crankcase.

What now is interesting I'd not run across in the previous discussions about this though, is from one of the links at this site, where someone says they replaced the PVC valve in their Festiva; which may've solved the problem I experience though they'd not specified the exact conditions causing oil to be drawn from their crankcase into the air intake. In the discussion earlier there seemed a general consensus that high revs due to the Festiva's design, were causing the oil to get sucked through the air system.

I'm not too bright, but I think a faulty PVC valve should cause some pretty grim problems if let go a long time; so perhaps there isn't a relationship?

Like I said, I'll post in its own thread...I'm getting annoyed at some leaks near the timing belt getting all over the alternator; so really should be after getting something done, as the car really is using oil, though running great with perfect plug conditions always. I'm near 175,000 miles and the car runs like the proverbial top, 40 mpg-plus when conditions are optimum, as always!

[FestYboy]

Bob, you should replace the crank seal first as it's usually the first to go and cause the leak you describe. but in all reallity, once you're in there doing the crank seal, the cam seal is another 10min of work, so do both. and to do both, you need/should open the valve cover thus needing the replacement of the VC gasket. oh and while you're in there, inspect the cam for wear and also replace the timing belt since it has to come off to get to both crank and cam seals.

it's a kind of all-at-once kind of maintenance job.