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Now, for my next trick...drum roll, etc!
With nearly 175,000 miles I wonder if I ought to change the water & oil pumps too, once everything is torn apart to do the timing belt and seals?*
I've always used synthetic oils, MOBILE ONE for a long time and lately NAPA's cheaper all synthetic grade; so perhaps there isn't a great amount of wear on the original oil pump? I got the car with 85,000 miles whose first owner claimed to've never used other than MOBILE ONE.
The heavier leakage seemed to coincide with my switch to the NAPA synthetic the past fifteen thousand miles or less which I always wonder about a little, despite an universal net opinion the two oils are nearly identical.
I guess renewing the water pump is sort of a "given" anyone would want to replace with as many miles as the car now has; but, that is my reasoning after having had for a dozen years as my only car, a '66 VW Type III; which had as one of that vehicle's virtues, lack of any water-cooling system. I have replaced water pumps on various other vehicles, usually cast-iron V-8s with overhead valves and push-rods. They always seemed to fail in instances which were generally disruptive and difficult, though not as much of a pain in the you-know-what taking off the timing belt to access looks to provide.
If I get through this project, then probably installing a good thermostat switch for the radiator fan will bring the car back to near new function; along with making the windshield squirter functional again...living in both Eureka and Bellingham, the climates are such that a person rarely has need of the washer fluid squirter, since the rains are frequent and heavy enough there is plenty of ambient moisture always washing the screen.
*The last oil pan I removed was one on a Chevy in-line cast-iron six cylinder motor, and that was a real chore; where afterwards I had so much oil leakage the whole process is terrorizing to think about doing again. Probably at fault were the bogus torque specs for the bunch of small bolts around the periphery of the oil pan given in one of the four factory shop manuals I'd had, recommending way too high a torque level I only reasoned was wrong after breaking off a few screws in the block: Definitely an error in the manual, not my reasoning foot pounds rather than inches.
With nearly 175,000 miles I wonder if I ought to change the water & oil pumps too, once everything is torn apart to do the timing belt and seals?*
I've always used synthetic oils, MOBILE ONE for a long time and lately NAPA's cheaper all synthetic grade; so perhaps there isn't a great amount of wear on the original oil pump? I got the car with 85,000 miles whose first owner claimed to've never used other than MOBILE ONE.
The heavier leakage seemed to coincide with my switch to the NAPA synthetic the past fifteen thousand miles or less which I always wonder about a little, despite an universal net opinion the two oils are nearly identical.
I guess renewing the water pump is sort of a "given" anyone would want to replace with as many miles as the car now has; but, that is my reasoning after having had for a dozen years as my only car, a '66 VW Type III; which had as one of that vehicle's virtues, lack of any water-cooling system. I have replaced water pumps on various other vehicles, usually cast-iron V-8s with overhead valves and push-rods. They always seemed to fail in instances which were generally disruptive and difficult, though not as much of a pain in the you-know-what taking off the timing belt to access looks to provide.
If I get through this project, then probably installing a good thermostat switch for the radiator fan will bring the car back to near new function; along with making the windshield squirter functional again...living in both Eureka and Bellingham, the climates are such that a person rarely has need of the washer fluid squirter, since the rains are frequent and heavy enough there is plenty of ambient moisture always washing the screen.
*The last oil pan I removed was one on a Chevy in-line cast-iron six cylinder motor, and that was a real chore; where afterwards I had so much oil leakage the whole process is terrorizing to think about doing again. Probably at fault were the bogus torque specs for the bunch of small bolts around the periphery of the oil pan given in one of the four factory shop manuals I'd had, recommending way too high a torque level I only reasoned was wrong after breaking off a few screws in the block: Definitely an error in the manual, not my reasoning foot pounds rather than inches.
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