Replacing b301 head on my Festy (Aspire)

[BrianFestiva]

Hey guys just need some help and advice.
I am replacing the head of my 1.3L b301. I have another head with cam and valves ready to go. I have had heads off before but never had to time them beacause I just left it where it was. Seeing as this is a new head I have to make sure its timed. Sorry I have done it once ages ago on a FWD Gemini and I can't remember how I did it. All I know is I was scared stiff lol as I'm used to working on non interferance engines! I know to turn it over by hand with out the plugs in when its all together and check for mechanical lock up and I know how to get top dead centre. I am browning my pants cos I need to get this right as I have little money and I will be driving 9 hours interstate next weekend.

So how do I go about it on a Festy?

My old head is leaking oil into the coolant and the last owner/mechanic crossthreaded the thermostat housing so its gotta go.

Thanx heaps guys!

Brian

[GenevaDirt]

The Festy is non-interference so you will not have to worry about that. Just find top dead center on the engine then make sure you line up the timing marks on the head before you put the belt back on. The markings are very easy to see on the Festy.

Do you have a Haynes manual?

[BrianFestiva]

Yeah, getting the manual tomorrow. I take it the manual shows the the timing marks?

[GenevaDirt]

Yeah, getting the manual tomorrow. I take it the manual shows the the timing marks?

yes it does. It is a very easy job on a Festy. Book is illustrated pretty good.

[BrianFestiva]

Cool thanx heaps. makes me feel better that its a non interferance engine!

[GenevaDirt]

Cool thanx heaps. makes me feel better that its a non interferance engine!

yes....makes things much easier.

[iceracerdude]

The "2" marks on the cam sprocket are at 12:00 and 3:00. It's the easiest timing job you'll ever do. Here's 3 little tricks I like to do, once I get the new head installed. I clean and completely dry the "seal groove" of the valve cover with electrical contact cleaner, and then put a little high temp rtv in the groove before I place the rubber seal in it, this will give you a perfectly leak free valve cover like this:

I then slowly pour the 1st quart of oil over the entire valve train, then I install the valve cover, and then add the rest of the oil through the fill hole. I pull the valve cover after driving/heat cycling the engine a few times (maybe 200 miles) and then re-torque the heads. You know, just leaving the torque wrench on 60 lbs. If you don't do the other 2 things, at least do this...ask me how I know.
You should see this DOHC Nissan head I'm working on right now, got a timing chain and it's an interference motor. I've had to remove both pieces of a 2 piece oil pan to remove the oil pump to remove the chain!

[BrianFestiva]

All in all running and now the rocker cover has been painted blue to boot! :wav:
Thanx for all your help! you guys are legends!
Brian:thumbup: