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Lots of Power When Cold...Gutless When Warm...

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  • Lots of Power When Cold...Gutless When Warm...

    I've been trying to figure out for years why my mothers Mazda 121 (- see avatar on left here - see also Gallery) with B3 engine is:

    Gutless & does 26MPG

    Well recently I've been driving it a lot myself and I found that it is very "nippy" (probably "peppy" for US folks) when cold - but once it gets to the operating temperature it feels gutless.

    The thing is the car is totally reliable...never fails to start etc..

    This might suggest it is running rich to me but looking at the spark plugs they are not black and look like the correct colour (color) to me.

    It never fails any emissions tests...presumably it would if it was running rich?

    Ive looked at most things and replaced air filter, plug leads and inspected the distributor cap and rotor and all seems to be well?

    No codes are displayed with an ODB tester...

    Any ideas?
    Tell it like it is...not how it should be

  • #2
    fuel injected or carbed? thats a sign of bad injectors. but not sayin that it is tho...it could be other things as well
    90 L FI..second B3
    90 L Parts car
    Jay

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    • #3
      Originally posted by studdyhalllooser
      fuel injected or carbed? thats a sign of bad injectors. but not sayin that it is tho...it could be other things as well
      Fuel Injected (16v SOHC) - carb throttle body style...

      It's been like this since 16,000 miles and now still under 60,000 miles..

      Some pics of it here http://www.fordfestiva.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4180
      Tell it like it is...not how it should be

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      • #4
        is it smooth accelerating or does it want to stumble?
        90 L FI..second B3
        90 L Parts car
        Jay

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by studdyhalllooser
          is it smooth accelerating or does it want to stumble?
          Thats the thing it runs perfectly in all respects...

          except gutless and poor fuel economy... :cry:

          (I've sent you a message on yahoo if you have it running?)
          Tell it like it is...not how it should be

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          • #6
            one thing you can do is: pull the engine out with the transaxle and
            send it to Rockville,MD , USA

            or

            give me a little more back ground information , like how your mothers drives the car, odometer reading, what services has been done, ETC.....

            Comment


            • #7
              Coolant temp sens

              check your coolant temp sensor. Its sending a signal that your engine is too cold/hot and either sending too much fuel or not enough
              1996 Aspire, 2DR 5SPD 185 60 14, Aluminum rims, Mild Stereo system, some neon tubes, 185 000 km not a speck of rust runs like a champ
              B8-ME Swap COMPLETED.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by mechanicaldj
                one thing you can do is: pull the engine out with the transaxle and
                send it to Rockville,MD , USA

                or

                give me a little more back ground information , like how your mothers drives the car, odometer reading, what services has been done, ETC.....
                I've got a buddy from Scotland that lives in Ellicot City that could possibly put it in his suitcase for ya!

                Odometer now 57,000 miles

                She drives fairly slowly these days probably around 45-50mph most of the time.

                Servicing has just been routine air/oil filters, plugs, brake discs (rotors) pads etc. I changed the plug leads last week (no difference at all!).
                Tell it like it is...not how it should be

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Coolant temp sens

                  Originally posted by krustyguitar
                  check your coolant temp sensor. Its sending a signal that your engine is too cold/hot and either sending too much fuel or not enough
                  How would I test the coolant sensor?

                  Should I be checking resistance or something like that?

                  Back to my original part - it never fails emissions tests - I would assume a rich mixture would cause failure? And if the mixture was too lean then I'd be using less fuel?
                  Tell it like it is...not how it should be

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                  • #10
                    replaced the fuel filter today - can;t notice any difference
                    Tell it like it is...not how it should be

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I was just browsing ebay for a new distributor cap and rotor when I came across this add:

                      REPLACEMENT DISTRIBUTOR CAP & ROTOR ARM…… IS YOUR FIGARO SLUGGISH?.... WHEN YOU PUT YOUR FOOT DOWN @ THE ROUND ABOUT…. 2 SECONDS LATER THE CAR DECIDE TO GO ???????MOST OF THAT ...IF NOT ALL THAT CAN BE TAKEN OUT BY FITTING A REPLACEMENT CAP&ROTOR .....IN JAPAN THERE PETROL IS 100 OCTAIN.... WHERE AS HOW IS 95/98 OCTAIN ...WHAT WE DO @;;;; FIGAROCARS.COM;;;; IS FIT THIS MODIFICATION. TAKE ABOUT 15 MINUETS... ONCE FITTED .. SLACKEN OF THE DISTRIBUTOR BODY . BY THE 12MM BOLT .. AND ADVANCE THE IGNITION UP BY TURNING THE DISTRIBUTOR BODY ABOUT A 16 TH OF AN INCH CLOCKWISE .THIS ...WILL ADVANCE THE IGNITION UP SLIGHTLY...YOU WILL NOTICE A GREAT IMPROVEMENT.. IF YOU DECIDE TO DO THIS YOU MIGHT. AS WELL BUY FROM US ..THE QUICK D.I.Y.SERVICE KIT THEN THAT’S A PROPER JOB DONE... SEE OUR OTHER AUCTIONS?

                      P.S

                      HAVE ALL THE OTHER PARTS IN STOCK WWW.FIGAROCARS.COM TO KEEP YOU FIGARO RUNNING--- RECON ENGINES/CYL.HEADS/ GEARBOXES/PISTONS BEARING/GASKETS/ SHOCK ABSORBERS/ BRAKES/ WISHBONES/DISC/STEEL ROAD WHEELS/NEW BUMPERS/WHEEL TRIMS/HEAD LIGHTS/GRILLS/DOORS/MIRRORS/GLASS/INTERIOR PARTS SEAT ECT INSURANCE REPAIRS/RESPRAYS/INTEROR/REFURBS/
                      Can the timing be adjusted on the B3 FI engine like this?

                      This is a Jap-spec Mazda 121 and has been running on UK Fuel for 8 years now...I always assumed that the electronic ignition compensated for varying octane?

                      Should I try turning the distributor body colockwise?
                      Tell it like it is...not how it should be

                      Comment

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