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idle low and stalls at stops

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  • idle low and stalls at stops

    ok.....history on the car...1990 festiva L plus with auto tranny.. on a highway trip after i bought this thing the valve cover gasket failed allowing oil to blow everywhere in the engine compartment. I mean every where....engine shut down and i had it towed home. it was out of oil (big shocker). so i went to the parts store got a new gasket and reassembled the motor. i did replace the throttle body gasket cause i took it off thinking i needed to to get the valve cover off. anyway. after i refilled it with oil changed the plugs/wires and airfilter i fired it up. it ran..was a bit noisy at first. but seem to idle ok around 500rpm. i think this is a bit low. i took it for a drive and whoa man it smoked bad. doesnt knock or anything just smoked. so i drove it for a total of 30 miles and the smoking issue seems to have subsided and only puffs under hard excelleration now. but now it stalls when i come to a stop..it fires right back up and will idle @500 but when i throw it into gear it stalls if i dont have my foot on the ghas petal a bit. so i was thinking possible its vaccum leak, IAC (where is this located?), maybe the maf is dirty?, ..........any other thoughts?.....it seems to run great goin down the road...sorry for the long read....

  • #2
    ok just an update....i tried to look for a vacum leak but didnt have much luck. however...i took it for a drive today and now ....hot air wont come through the vents...it comes through the defrost but not the vents...so maybe this is related to the stalling when i come to a stop....i tried kicking it into neutral at stops to see if that helped and it didnt......

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    • #3
      Originally posted by ToTalXS
      ok just an update....i tried to look for a vacum leak but didnt have much luck. however...i took it for a drive today and now ....hot air wont come through the vents...it comes through the defrost but not the vents...so maybe this is related to the stalling when i come to a stop....i tried kicking it into neutral at stops to see if that helped and it didnt......
      Nay, that's how it's designed. Hot air won't come through the front vents. A lot of old cheap cars were designed like that.

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      • #4
        the IAC is located to the left of the intake, behind the distributor.

        looks like this:




        also check your PCV valve, for operation.

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        • #5
          so how do i check it?......i'll prolly grab one at the store tomorrow...i read a post that said a bad pcv valve can cause the car to die at stops...is that correct?...also....is it possible that the torque converter is not working right?...does it have a mechanical lock up feature?.....thanks

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          • #6
            No there is no lockup feature on the Festiva torque converters. I have heard rumor of the Aspires having some sort of mechanical lockup activated by centrifugal force but haven't found anything out for sure on that. If they exist they might be a nice upgrade for the Festiva
            Paul
            91GL
            Menomonee Falls, WI

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            • #7
              ok thanks....i was just throwing it out there because of the way the car acts.....when you put it into gear it really jumps and lunges then dies....

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              • #8
                ok well....it seems the pcv valve didnt help...i replaced it and still acting out....i poured some seafoam into the crankcase just for general purpose...but it seems my oil was 2 quarts low after 180 miles of driving.....so now im wondering if there isnt more oil burning than i originally thought..lol....so i priced a junker motor they want 200 bucks for a engine that has 141k miles on it...another yard wants 300 for one that has unknown mileage. i was thinking of getting the 141k mile motor and rebuilding it...but is it true that a rebuild kit really costs 600 bucks?...including rings and bearings?.....that just seems a little high to me....so it would mean i got 300 in the car plus 200 for a new motor then 600 for a rebuild kit.....i guess 1100 isnt bad for total investment of a beater work car...

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                • #9
                  Do a compression test and see what's wrong first. If it's the ring just buy the rings, check out everything else just in case but leave them if they look good and new set of gaskets. Good to go and cheap. If your cylinder walls are good shouldn't need to rebore.
                  91 rusty Festiva 260k

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                  • #10
                    rings are about 80 bucks a set then?....just curious....i'll check out the online parts websites in a bit...however....i just drove my festiva and did a little playin around.....i think im gettin massive amounts of blow by.....which means.....rings are shot and prolly this engine is not long for this world....lol....so im gonna figure out how im gonna get that b3 from the junk yard...sooner than i wanted too....the reason i know im getting too much blowby?.....when i pull the hose that runs from the valve cover to the intake off it looks like a old time steam engine just puffs away....lol....and i think thats where alot of oil is goin through there into the intake.....so im definately in need of a engine..i'll compression test that engine when i get it.....thanks for all your help....i really appreciate it....all this would have been avoided if the valve cover gasket would have been good shape......oh well...like my wife says..."its just your luck".....lol

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                    • #11
                      On my aspire I had extreme blow-by, the 4th cylinder had no rings at all. But internally the engine looked good. I kick myself for not re-ringing it. But also I kick myself for not dropping in a 1.5L, hind sights 20/20.
                      91 rusty Festiva 260k

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by ToTalXS
                        rings are about 80 bucks a set then?....l
                        80 bucks? Someone's trying to rip you off.

                        I paid $35 for mine from Northern Auto.


                        Regards,

                        Tim
                        White '89L auto - Sold!
                        Silver '06 Rav4, 95k!

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Tim
                          Originally posted by ToTalXS
                          rings are about 80 bucks a set then?....l
                          80 bucks? Someone's trying to rip you off.

                          I paid $35 for mine from Northern Auto.


                          Regards,

                          Tim
                          RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

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                          • #14
                            ok im not even gonna mess with this engine anymore......i found one with 98k miles on it for 300 bucks...im just gonna go get that one later this week and drop it in.....

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                            • #15
                              So I guess I should feel lucky that I have over 250K on my original engine and 5 speed trans and haven't had to open it up yet?
                              Paul
                              91GL
                              Menomonee Falls, WI

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