Is it the fuel pump?

[Pu241]

I did say it may take a while for the lifters to get pumped up.
But, might want to give this a consideration:

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32376

You might want to only use half the recommended dose and give it a second treatment when it next needs and oil change.
This keeps from pull too much crud out too fast.
Just a thought!

[RichardLSU]

Started it up again, tick is gone.

You must have been right. Thanks!

[RichardLSU]

Also, when I get my Aspire parts, I'm going to rebuild them as much as I can, new bearings, grease, shoes, cables, lines, etc... If I'm going to do this I want to do it right.

[RichardLSU]

When I get out of class I'm going to remove the valve cover and replace the gasket (old one is leaking) and check out what is making the tick. I figured it was probably a lifter. The oil is nice and clean though, but I think I used 10w50, not 5w. I might run some Seafoam through the oil and see if that breaks it up.

I let it run for a bit and the ticking didn't go away, even after it had warmed up a bit and I had driven it a mile or so.

The brakes made a horrible grinding/rubbing noise but after I drove around it seemed to quiet them down. I attribute it to sitting for so long and needing to loosen up. They didn't seize, thank god.

[Pu241]

Ticking is the lifters, probably due to not running for so long, let it warm up and they should pump themselves up.
Might have to do an oil change and use 5W-30 to help get the lifters to pump up.
They have very small oil passages and and crud or thicker (higher viscosity) oil will not get in as easy.
Glad she's up and running.
Brakes could need replacing or again frozen in place due to sitting.
pull the front, easiest to check and see.
If it sat a long while, when you pull the drums, you might as well repack the rear bearings while your at it.
Could save you pain and suffering later on.

[RichardLSU]

It lives!!!

I got the fuel pump in the mail last night when I got home and installed it this morning.

I went to Advanced Auto Parts and got a new strainer (16 dollars!) and had to sand down the inside of the inlet tube to get it to fit, but it did with the help of a rather large hammer.

I got it all put back together, attached some jumper cables to my other car and let it charge for a second. After a while I pumped the gas a few times and VROOOM! She started right up!!!

There is a pretty bad tick coming from the motor, sounds like a rocker arm or something to me. I guess I will tackle that next.

I took it for a spin around my neighborhood and she ran great! The clutch seems to be in good shape but I could tell new brakes will be needed soon. An excuse for an Aspire swap I say! As I drove past an elementary school some of the kids on recess yelled "I LIKE YOUR CAR!" Hahaha!

I have the biggest grin on my face!!

[Pu241]

$30 wasn't bad!
Glad you didn't pay for a new one!
Now that I think about it, I doubt you could have ordered a new one!

You got it under control, replace the pump first and I'm sure after a few cranks she'll fire right up!

Keep us posted!

[RichardLSU]

Actually, I searched for it on the For Sale forum and found one from a user who no longer needed it. 30 bucks including shipping, I figured it was a pretty good deal so I grabbed it up.

I know someone said to bypass it somehow, but honestly, I'm terrified of messing with any wires under my hood. I went out and looked but couldn't identify what they were even talking about.

If it turns out that I don't need it I'm sure it will either sit on my shelf in the garage or go to another user who can use it.

[Pu241]

Why the MAF (which is actually a VAF)?

I believe it was mentioned that you can jumper it out of the circuit!
If it turns out not to be the VAF hopefully you can get your money back because they aint cheap!
Also, if you had placed a [WTB], someone would have had a known good unit available for way less.

[RichardLSU]

Thats good to know about the filter sock. Thanks!

It seems to me that everyone thinks its the fuel pump. I sure hope it is.

I've got a new relay already and a new MAF sensor and fuel pump in the mail. I'll start at the back and work my way forward.

Now I wish these parts would just get here!!!

[IdealSociety]

sounds like the classic fuel pump issue for sure. i picked up a bad tank of gas just once from a recently flooded gas station and it threw about a pound of sand into my tank and killed my fuel pump pretty much within 10 minutes of driving.

Its really surprising how quickly those fuel socks can crud up and let a pump die. While you have the pump out, look into the tank and check for crud/rust etc. If its nice and clean no worries!

Also, you can buy a stock fuel sock from almost any parts store separately for around 5$ if it doesnt come with the pump if memory serves me correctly.

[RichardLSU]

Yeah the float and sender worked fine.

[Pu241]

You think the float or sender could go bad?

Most definitely, they have.
But will not affect how the car runs, you just wont know how much gas you have. A trip Odo helps in this regard.
Anyway one problem at a time.
I assume the float/sender worked before removal?
No reason to believe it would fail from careful removal and re-installation.

[Safety Guy]

Some advice: when you get a sock for your new pump, take the pump in and make sure the sock fits! I once bought a pump and sock at AZ and had a hard time fitting them together. The pump didn't work too well, either. Swapped it back for the original. (My problem was apparently the wiring last spring, as well as a few weeks ago. The PO had cut and spliced the wires at the fuel pump pigtails.)

Karl

[RichardLSU]

Thats kind of what I figured. I was very careful when removing the old pump from the tank. Its sitting in a safe place, still all intact.

You think the float or sender could go bad?