Replacing head cover gasket

[Jdperrine]

How much torque do I need to use for 1992 Festiva L?
Do I need to replace the bolts as well? I've heard mixed responses.

[Pu241]

All B series Mazda engines, of which the B3 is a member, DO NOT used torque to yield bolts. Therefore they can be cleaned up and reused.

Torque in two stages:

1) 35 to 40 ft/lbs

2) 50 to 60 ft/lbs

Since you didn't ask I assume you have the torquing sequence.

I suggest you get a Haynes or Ford manual it can be very helpful when you do not have access to the internet.
They are relatively cheap via ebay.
Good luck and let us know how this turned out as we supply much info but rarely do we get the follow up!

[batstiva]

A little confused here. Are you talking about doing the head gasket, or the valve cover gasket?
The specs for the VC are 44-80 in-lbs.

Do not over tighten these bolts, as they will snap off. Ask me how I know this.

Head bolts are 2 stage
Stage 1 35-40 ft-lbs
Stage 2 56-60 ft-lbs

[GenevaDirt]

A little confused here. Are you talking about doing the head gasket, or the valve cover gasket?
The specs for the VC are 44-80 in-lbs.

Do not over tighten these bolts, as they will snap off. Ask me how I know this.

Head bolts are 2 stage
Stage 1 35-40 ft-lbs
Stage 2 56-60 ft-lbs

How do you know this sir?

[Pu241]

Yes, good point!
I assumed due to replacement of bolts question, he was talking about the head-bolts.
I've never had any VG bolt that needed replacement with gasket replacement.
And batstiva is correct in/lbs, because if you break one it make life much more difficult.

[batstiva]

How do you know this sir?

Long story. The short version is this- 77 Mercury Comet, VC leaking, replaced, subscribed to the 'tighter is better' school of thought, turns out that is not always correct. What can I say, I was young, dumb, and full of...well anyway, correcting that problem is not fun.

Yes, good point!
I assumed due to replacement of bolts question, he was talking about the head-bolts.
I've never had any VG bolt that needed replacement with gasket replacement.
And batstiva is correct in/lbs, because if you break one it make life much more difficult.

John, you may be right. Just never heard anyone call it a head cover gasket, and as the torque levels are very different, just wanted clarification. Because, as we have both stated, breaking one of those valve cover bolts pretty much makes any day a Monday.

[Pu241]

Well, as he was on here at 12:44 and we got no follow up, I really don't expect much clarification. LOL!

[batstiva]

^^ I suspect you are right, sir!

[Kbrier]

Yes: I also verified that the valve cover bolts will break off (inch pounds only!!). I guess it really is not much fun unless you have to extract a broken bolt form the head? All good now!

[Jdperrine]

Ok...
We're replacing the head gasket!
Is there a walk thru thread? Will Haynes manual cover this?

[Safety Guy]

Yes, Haynes should cover it. Best to get a Ford shop manual when you can. You should be able to find one on ebay for around $25 or less, shipped. Sometimes folks here sell them.

I just did my head gasket, though I didn't have a "step by step," I do have a few pics here, along with links to my "help!" threads where I asked questions you may want answers to as well. Go here:

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31934

If you don't have time or interest for the whole thread, my engine stuff starts at the top of page four. Don't forget the links to other info! That should help you "see" what you'll be getting into, though your engine is probably not out of the car.

Karl

[Jdperrine]

Sorry, change of plans.
We are first going to change the valve cover gasket and hope that will stop the oil leak.
I've ordered a Haynes Manual but it will not arrive before we want to do the job.
Is there a sequence to replacing the bolts?

Thanks.

[scitzz]

An oil leak wouldn't very likely be a head gasket...

No sequence for the valve cover bolts, and Batstiva gave the in/lbs specs for it already...

A Haynes manual will give you very good directions for anything except the windshield, the brake rotors, and rebuilding the transmission!

[iceracerdude]

Yes, Haynes should cover it. Best to get a Ford shop manual when you can. You should be able to find one on ebay for around $25 or less, shipped. Sometimes folks here sell them.
Karl

Absolutely go to Amazon.com and buy one in "used good condition" for like $4-$6/w $2 shipping!
I do this exclusively...Every one I've ever bought like this, looks like it was used one time lol.

How much torque do I need to use for 1992 Festiva L?
Do I need to replace the bolts as well? I've heard mixed responses.

No you don't need to replace the head bolts, they're not TTY type bolts (torque to yield")
You do want to chase the threads though (run a tap in the bolt holes, and then Q-tip them out after) I also wire wheel off the threads of the bolts and oil the threads with motor oil before installing them. One thing I consider to be very important and always do is: After I reassemble none tty bolt type engines, I'll heat cycle the engine several times. Figure a 100-200 miles or a few trips to the stores then I pull the vc and "re-torque" the head bolts again. By that I mean, I simply check them all in the correct sequence and apply the 60lbs again. I don't loosen them, I just set the wrench to 60lbs and go over all of them again. You'd be surprised to see that a few might have backed off a little.

To create a perfect leak proof vc do this: Clean and dry the VC's "gasket groove" throughly, I use brake cleaner as it leaves no residu. Be careful with the stuff because it will eat plastic.
Then put a little bead of (oxygen sensor safe) rtv in the groove before placing a fresh gasket back in the groove. Make sure to wipe the sealing surface of the head dry of oil and reinstall the vc. Now wipe off any extra rtv in the event you were a maniac with the rtv. Let this dry over night before driving.

[Jdperrine]

Thanks guys.