head troubles, video to see!

[bassman]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z-eHa980jh8

[Biff]

I watched your video. Interesting, makes me wonder if the extreme cold, plus syn oil just didn,t work. I have never used syn oil so just suspect, thats all. I would take the cam out of it's bore, shine up and check out the bores, make sure the oil feed holes are deburred, and put it back together. Nothing to loose.
I was suprised at the tightness of a cam when trying to turn the cam while changing a timing belt. They are tight. Surely this car has seen cold like this in it's life before?
I have an engine out back, but surely auto wreckers in your area might have something.
Let me know.

[1988festivazoom]

Synthetic oils are better or at least now worse than conventional oils in the cold so I highly dbout that it would be because of the oil. I personally run amsoil 10-40w high zinc and its max cold start temp is 48*c so freaking cold. And syn oild stays on bearings and the cylindre walls better than conventional oil. So it being caused by oil is highly unlikley.

[Biff]

Synthetic oils are better or at least now worse than conventional oils in the cold so I highly dbout that it would be because of the oil. I personally run amsoil 10-40w high zinc and its max cold start temp is 48*c so freaking cold. And syn oild stays on bearings and the cylindre walls better than conventional oil. So it being caused by oil is highly unlikley.

Yes, I would say you are right, if was a lube issue, the crank would squeek long before the cam.

[sasquatch]

throw an aspire head on it and be done... cheap at the junk yard and will give a little boost in hp...

[1988festivazoom]

yep u can problay pick one up for 50$ and then get the fms cam! my roomate has the cam in his b6 and it was a huge improvment, its funny bc it "lopes" and it sounds like a missfire lol

[FestYboy]

can't run the FMS cam with aspire rockers....

[htchbck]

I bought a car a while back with the exact same problem you're having. Ended up pulling the dist and tapping the cam out that end of the motor after removing the thrust plate. Drilled out what was left of the retaining pin and I cannot for the life of me remember what I ended up using to replace it, but it was just something random I found laying in my garage that was the right thickness and I just tapped it into place with a hammer. Used an easy out on what was left of the bolt and replaced it with a spare one. I figured the motor was probably toast anyway, but why not try to fix the problem. Found one of the journals on the camshaft that looked a little scored up, and sure enough on the inside of the head there were a couple of burrs. So I surrounded the area with shop towels and got out my trusty dremel and went to town on it with a tiny wire wheel till everything was smooth again. After reassembly the cam squeaked at idle, so I never drove it more than ten miles from the house in case it died on me. After about 200 miles the squeaked stopped and I drove it normally for another 70,000 miles. Eventually it developed an oil leak in the bottom end and a friend borrowed it for a week and never topped the oil off like I asked him... lol, and that was the end of that, finally slung a rod. Good luck on the fix!

[econoaddict]

All it takes is a bit of crud to block one oil supply for the cam and you lose a journal, and boom, cam locks up.
I just dealt with the same problem. The cam will not come out of the head or turn, big hammer and punch it still won't come out. Mat try to put it in a press.
Heres a couple of pics of the carnage. I will keep trying to remove the cam to get pics of that.
No oil to one cam journal caused this, the bottom end is still great, in fact in the car and running great.

[iceracerdude]

I wouldn't "just try and run it". No matter what, that head is going to be coming off.
Either to replace the camshaft and clean up the journals, or to replace the entire head.
If you've got anything busted off down in any of the cylinders like a spark plug tip, or a ring or even a piece of valve, you don't want to grind up the rest of the engine.
Honestly, a used or refurbished head and gasket is going to be the easiest, fastest and least expensive way to go on this one. Synthetic oil did not cause this, but too many additives or coolant in the oil at one time could.

[bassman]

All it takes is a bit of crud to block one oil supply for the cam and you lose a journal, and boom, cam locks up.
I just dealt with the same problem. The cam will not come out of the head or turn, big hammer and punch it still won't come out. Mat try to put it in a press.
Heres a couple of pics of the carnage. I will keep trying to remove the cam to get pics of that.
No oil to one cam journal caused this, the bottom end is still great, in fact in the car and running great.

to get mine to turn I used a big bar on a wrench to turn the cam.

[bassman]

I wouldn't "just try and run it". No matter what, that head is going to be coming off.
Either to replace the camshaft and clean up the journals, or to replace the entire head.
If you've got anything busted off down in any of the cylinders like a spark plug tip, or a ring or even a piece of valve, you don't want to grind up the rest of the engine.
Honestly, a used or refurbished head and gasket is going to be the easiest, fastest and least expensive way to go on this one. Synthetic oil did not cause this, but too many additives or coolant in the oil at one time could.

300 000 k on this engine, the owner wants to fix it and found a new one on ebay for $225, he thinks that is the way to go?

we both have many other cars so this is no big deal to be done soon, just sad that his favorite is down..