Great...car doesn't start now.

[chaosdrifter06]

Got the car registered....excited about finally driving the car. Put the plates on, re-connect the battery, turned the ignition. Car starts....then can't idle and dies with screeching, grinding sound. Tried to start it again several more times...no avail. Starts but refuses to idle and car dies with a grinding, screeching halt.

I wouldn't understand why it would not start now. The car reliably started when I bought it and drove it 30 miles back into town. The weather is 9 degrees outside and is the only reason I can think of that may cause it. Any ideas?

[DrMaxwellEdison]

fuel filter clogged?

[Pu241]

Why was the battery disconnected in the first place?

What else was touched under the hood.

That behavior sound like the VAF connection.
With the connector disconnected mine would start, but shut down in about 3 seconds.

Clogged filter will generally let a car idle, but stumbles and dies when trying to use more gas than the compromised fuel system can deliver.

[bravekozak]

Before you try starting it again, check your timing belt.
I hope your belt is intact, and you haven't bent any valves.

[chaosdrifter06]

It could be those, I can check but I feel like something else is causing it to shut off like that. There is a grinding screeching sound it makes as it turns off like there is some sort of resistance keeping the crank from turning. The screeching sounds like something you would hear from a squeaky timing belt and the sound would be more profound if you gas the engine.

Oh, and to answer the question of the disconnected battery, the car has a little LED light on one of the switches that would drain the battery if you let the car sit without driving it for too long.

UPDATE: The weather got a little "warmer" (32 degrees vs. last night's 9) and the car seems to start up better. It finally decided to stay idle....until I lift my foot off the clutch. The car would then try to stay idle, but sputter and eventually shut off. Could it be something with the clutch? The shifter is in neutral so the transmission shouldn't be stalling the engine since it's not engaged with it.

[Pu241]

Before you try starting it again, check your timing belt.
I hope your belt is intact, and you haven't bent any valves.

All Mazda B series engines are non-interference engines.
The valve can't make contact with the piston under any circumstances.

If the timing belt were broke it would not start at all.
This might be a timing issue, but is definitely not a broken timing belt issue.
Slipped tooth might also be a possibility.
Definitely check you timing.

[Pu241]

Grinding/screeching noise could be from the Alternator/water pump belt or the water pump or alternator bearings themselves failing.

A single LED would take a long time to drain the battery.
So what is this switch being used for?

I wonder if you have the correct fluid in the tranny case.
It should be ATX fluid and red in color.

[WmWatt]

If the gear box is in neutral I wouldn't expect much resistance. You could try putting the car in gear and rocking it back and forth to move the transmission a bit before trying to start. If you have jack stands you could try setting the front end up off the ground and starting the car.

[htchbck]

All Mazda B series engines are non-interference engines.
The valve can't make contact with the piston under any circumstances.

Not true, once when I was rebuilding an engine and had the pistons layed out on a towel on my workbench, I was cleaning a valve and dropped it. It made contact with two of the pistons, bouncing off one and coming to rest against another. :lol:

But yes, sounds like it could be a trans issue, though my first guess (and easy to check) would be either the WP or the ALT. Just take off the WP/ALT belt and then crank it and see if that makes the sound go away. If it does then one of the two probably has shot bearings. With the engine off see if either pulley is hard to turn by hand while the belt is not on. Also, do you have AC? On my Miata the compressor is going bad and if I hit the A/C switch it will just about kill the motor at idle. Might check to see if the AC clutch/pulley is locking up too if you have that.

[chaosdrifter06]

I think the AC in my car has been removed...it is a swap after all and I don't see a compressor at all.

The screeching sound has gone away. Now all it does is sputter and shut off. Stays on when I'm on the clutch pedal, shuts off once I get off it.

The switch is connected to the radiator fans. Yeah, it doesn't turn on when the engine does

Either way I'll check the WP and ALT....just wish the snow would let up though...I have until next Monday to get this car reliably running and inspected.

[htchbck]

I think the AC in my car has been removed...it is a swap after all and I don't see a compressor at all.

Sorry, didn't know it was a swapped car, if you mentioned that I must've missed it. I take it that you did not swap it yourself? So was it running after the swap, or is this the first time you've tried to drive it? Could be something in the trans/clutch binding if something wasn't done right during the swap. What motor is in it now?

[chaosdrifter06]

Sorry, didn't know it was a swapped car, if you mentioned that I must've missed it. I take it that you did not swap it yourself? So was it running after the swap, or is this the first time you've tried to drive it? Could be something in the trans/clutch binding if something wasn't done right during the swap. What motor is in it now?

The car came with the swap already done. From what I checked with the previous owner, he did the swap 14 years ago when the B6 was the best option available for these cars. He took a B6F from Japan and took out the original carbed B3. The transmission is from an Aspire and so is the suspension and brakes. The car ran and drove when I bought it though the previous owner says it has problems with the cold weather so all it may need is a tune up.

[chaosdrifter06]

UPDATE: Did some work on the car today. I started the car up, revved it to 3500 then it began to stay at idle. I'm guessing it's a timing belt? There is a REALLY loud squealing when I give it gas.

Just want to confirm before I go to autozone and buy the part to make sure it could be it.

And just to make sure in case it is the timing belt....what car should I ask for? The B6 engine was in the 323, but I'm not sure that it can be the same since the Fuel injected models weren't available at that time in the US.

[wybnrml]

UPDATE: Did some work on the car today. I started the car up, revved it to 3500 then it began to stay at idle. I'm guessing it's a timing belt? There is a REALLY loud squealing when I give it gas.

Just want to confirm before I go to autozone and buy the part to make sure it could be it.

And just to make sure in case it is the timing belt....what car should I ask for? The B6 engine was in the 323, but I'm not sure that it can be the same since the Fuel injected models weren't available at that time in the US.

All US 323's were Fuel Injected.

Another thing I would check would be the gas tank. If the car was sitting for awhile before you bought I would check for rust or water. There is a access panel under the rear seat under the carpet. May not be the starting problem, but doesn't hurt to check anyway.

[htchbck]

So... have you tried taking off the WP/ALT belt as has been suggested? I think that you might find that is where the squealing is coming from. As for the rough running/idling, it does not seem like a timing belt issue because it is intermittent. Could be a timing belt or timing belt tensioner problem, but I'd try the theory that it might be the other belt before digging into the timing belt. Just my $1/50