High idle is I think around 1200, been a while since I've had an EFI one, but I think thats about what they did. Regular idle should drop to around 700-800. The only way to adjust the belt is with the alt. If you can get the stub of the bolt out then you can take it to the parts store, match it up and get another bolt. Did you loosen the bottom ALT bolt before you tried to tighten it? And retighten it afterwards? If you don't tighten the bottom bolt back up it will let the belt loosen up and slip because the top bolt isn't enough to hold it.
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Originally posted by chaosdrifter06 View PostMy guess is this: Did these engines have some sort of engine temp sensor that would make then engine rev higher than its idle point to warm up the engine?
It is located on the underside of the intake manifold on the passenger-side of the engine compartment.
Might be able to get you a pic.
Originally posted by chaosdrifter06 View PostRemember, the fuel is fine it has new gas and I re-filled when it was close to empty. before I drive it 5 miles away, I'm going to drive to the bank and see if it survives that.
Instead of draining the old fuel/water/crud from your tank via the drain bolt you just diluted it.
Be that as it may, that is not your current problem.
After warm-up could you drive to/from the bank and did it return to idle when not in gear?
Originally posted by chaosdrifter06 View PostUPDATE: Serpentine Belt started to squeal. It's new so I guess it has to be tighten up. Went to tighten it up a little bit by going for the adjuster bolt on the ALT....then the bolt snapped due to rustIs there any other way to tighten the belt other than the ALT?
You need to get some PB Blaster and let it penetrate the fastener before you attempt to break them loose. This will save you much time, pain, and suffering and reduce the use of the F-bomb in the presence of your automobile.
Also, as htchbck stated you need to loosen the ALT pivot bolt before attempting to tighten the belt.
In your case, I'd remove the bolt and clean it and lube it up before put it back in. This will make adjusting belt tension much easier.
Remember to be careful of over tightening the belt as it will lead to premature Alt or water pump bearing failure.'93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
'93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
'92 Aqua parts Car
'93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
'90 White LX Thanks to FB71
"Your God of repentance will not save you.
Your holy ghost will not save you.
Your God plutonium will not save you.
In fact...
...You will not be saved!"
Prince of Darkness -1987
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Not to hijack the thread, but has anyone ever noticed any two bolt tensioners/brackets for the ALT on any other B-series engines? Like the ones on Honda's and Nissan's and even the FE engine in my MX6, that have one bolt that tightens to tension the belt, and another that locks it down. I hate trying to tension the belt on festivas and my Miata by pulling on the alt and then locking it down, I love having an adjusting bolt. This kind of relates to the topic at hand because we're talking about alts and belt tension, right?No festiva for me ATM...
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The car stays in idle when not in gear after warm up. It squeals periodically, but it stays in idle.
Thanks for the heads up on the bottom ALT pivot bolt. I'm so pressed into getting this thing running properly I'm missing things. I need to slow down after looking at this. I just wish they gave us more time with these inspections.
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That's what squealing alright....the ALT/WP belt is brand new I just think it's a little loose hence why I'm trying to find a way to tighten it.
If that doesn't fix it, then I say it has to be the ALT on its way out since the source of the squealing is somewhere in the immediate area of the ALT.
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They have to be on pretty tight.
Before you run the risk of over tightening the belt, try to cleanup the pulleys (drive, Alt, and water pump) with some sand paper/steel wool and maybe use some belt dressing.
I use a pipe between the ALT and the block for leverage to help me tension the belt before bolting it down.
Have you been able to remove the remains of the lock down bolt for the ALT?'93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
'93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
'92 Aqua parts Car
'93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
'90 White LX Thanks to FB71
"Your God of repentance will not save you.
Your holy ghost will not save you.
Your God plutonium will not save you.
In fact...
...You will not be saved!"
Prince of Darkness -1987
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Originally posted by Pu241 View PostI use a pipe between the ALT and the block for leverage to help me tension the belt before bolting it down.No festiva for me ATM...
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i hope my how too made the job easier? the belt needs quite a bit of tention to keep from squeeling. remember that as you put an electrical load on the Alt, it will try to stop spinning because of the magnetic field generated to produce current to the battery.Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.
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