Replacing da bearing HELP!

[js_og]

Hello guys,

I plan on changing my front wheel bearings in a couple of weeks. So far I bought the bearings, inner and outer, but apparently I need to pack them with oil.

Anyone ever replaced their bearings? Any advice is welcome.
What kind of oil should I buy for this?
We don't have access to an hydraulic press, what's your way of doing it?

Thanks!

[1988festivazoom]

make sure u put the spacers back in the EXACT location they came from. wheel bearing grease, hi heat ect. dont buy cheap stuff if u want them to last.

[js_og]

I already bought cheap china bearings cause I only need them to last a year. I'll be doing the aspire swap next year. Why? Because my 12 inchers are brand new :S

Ok spacers back in exact position. Noted captain.

[kumalaba]

^

cheap bearings not a good idea!

[Safety Guy]

I can understand using cheap bearings on the rear which is easy to replace, but for all the work required on the fronts, you'll really be better off with good quality bearings. Then after your Aspire swap, you can either keep these for any future Festivas which need fixed up or you could sell them to someone who needs them. Don't throw them out unless they're really rusted gnarly pukish blechh.

There is a recent thread on this subject...here ya go:

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34540

Karl

[bravekozak]

Make sure you pack the wheel bearings with a good, lithium based, milled grease such as Esso Unirex EP-2

When the soap base is milled while it is still very hot from the contactor, it will be very smooth and there will not be any gritty particles. Pack the grease in from the large end and force the grease all the way through the roller bearings until it comes out the tapered end.

The EP designation is for Extreme Pressure additives.
EP1 is for winter driving way up north.
There is more oil in the grease and it is softer at normal temperatures.
Make sure you buy a number 2 grease. You do not want to have oil bleeding out into your grease caps.
Good luck.

[WmWatt]

My bearings were done wrong by Candian Tire and only lasted 2,000 km before they had to redo them under warranty. Based on that you may not get a full year out of a cheap bearing job. I used Candian Tire (Motomaster) bearing grease (green) on the back and they're still good years later. It's less than $10 and 'way more than you need.

[js_og]

Thanks for all the input.

Karl: I'll try getting refurbished Karl. Any recommended top end brand for wheel bearings? I guess I can use the same bearings on both Aspire and Festiva hubs.

WmWatt: thanks for the suggestion. I'm on a budget for this year. Next year I'll take the EP-2. Noted.

[m715]

Set 11 in Timken bearings X 4 for the front, or Federal Mogul A18's ( for Festiva's)

[js_og]

A18 ? This is what I got from my local dealer. But it states CBK on it. Could it still be Federal Mogul? maybe A18 refers to something standard along bearing manufacturers...

Here's what I got:


Part#:A-18
Manufacturer:NATIONAL SEAL/BEARING/HUB ASSY
Notes:Front Whl ; Outer ; 2 Per Veh; Years:1994-1997; Per Car Qty:2;
Véhicule:1994 FORD ASPIRE L4-1295cc 1.3L F/I Vin H

[m715]

Good question. It could be both an interchange, or the same bearings. Even Timkens are not all made in the US anymore. It seems to be that if it has the name brand on the package though, they are made to a closer tolerance per the company's spec. The overseas outfits can make good, fair, and poor quality product, and do! just depends on the price.
Think this is bad, try weeding out the different quality production from the same manufacturer in Auto Glass! There is a BIG difference!
Just looked, because that name sounded familiar. Those are Federal Mogul. That is their seal and bearing division.

[js_og]

I paid 14$ per bearing. How does that sound to you?

[m715]

As I remember the last time, about the same money as the Timkens. The "cheap seats" type would be 6-8.00 ea.
Good luck. I hope you do as well as i have with this, but I do have the Rotunda tool set to split the hubs with, so I did cheat some.
Just remember the spacers. They stick to the bearing, and I think that is how the repair shops screw up and throw them away by accident.

Michael

[FestYboy]

when reinstalling the hub/bearings to knuckle, use as LITTLE force as needed to seat them in place. i've found the best way to fit them is to install and fully seat the outer race on the hub. then install the spacer ring onto the hub. install the inner and outer race into the knuckle like you would on a rear drum. place the hub into the knuckle and then carefuly press the inner bearing onto the hub. do this in small steps once you get close to seating the bearing. if you press too hard, you'll have to secure the knuckle in a vice and smack the hub shaft with a socket (27mm) and hammer to loosen it slightly and try again. there should be NO bearing play, BUT the hub should also rotate smoothly and easily (having bearing play will let the hub spin VEARY easily and also reduce the life of the bearing). i've done several bearings for festys and NONE have had issues (yet). i do most of this work by feel, but i've also been doing it for a while, so ...

[js_og]

Procedure well noted Festyboy. Will try to do as stated, but my friend told me about a pipe and hammer. He plans on picking a pipe just the right diameter smack the bearing down.