Oh i don't think that is a fair comparison. The clean engine is owned by someone who takes care of the whole picture, not just an oil choice. The dirty one is an engine that skips changes all the time, lot of starting and stopping never getting to temperature...probably doesn't even have a thermostat in it, pcv tube full of holes and doesn't hold pressure etc. I HAVE brought 2 of those b3's in the same condition back from the dead just by running dino. I didn't want to waste synthetic on leaking valve seats but i got both engines to pass emissions. One is still running 3 years later in a festiva (aspire engine)
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Synth vs Dino Oil on an old B8
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Although it's true, you can keep an engine clean with dino oil, just one of the things that helped create those top engine pictures is dino oil's inability to fight heat heat, and not I'm not just refering to extremes either. The synthetic just doesn't break down and then bake on like that.
You cannot deny the technological differences.
It's the same thing with spark plugs, platinum can take twice the heat of regular plugs, iridium, twice the heat of the platinums. So yeah, I guess I'm an "oil and tire snob" for that mattter ha, ha.
Hey, don't get me wrong, I've got a nice revolver, but it ain't like my Glock 17.Last edited by iceracerdude; 04-17-2011, 11:40 AM.
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After much discussion to my fellow friends, I came to the conclusion that an old motor (150k and up) needs way to much prepping in order to get on synthetic. Apparently I would have to change the head gasket, get the head resurfaced and block rebored, new rings and sleeves. Thats over 600$ worth of parts / labor here.
I will probably end up using half synthetic.J-S
'93L "Pepestiva" - 160 miles old Road Slave
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Originally posted by js_og View PostAfter much discussion to my fellow friends, I came to the conclusion that an old motor (150k and up) needs way to much prepping in order to get on synthetic. Apparently I would have to change the head gasket, get the head resurfaced and block rebored, new rings and sleeves. Thats over 600$ worth of parts / labor here.
I will probably end up using half synthetic.Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link
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I put synthetic oil in my Festiva when I got it. It had 218K miles when I changed the oil to synthetic. No leaks and no puffs. It did quiet down if not eliminate the tick I had on start up.Rick
1993 Ford Festiva
1986 AMC Eagle Wagon 4.2L/4.0L head, AW4,NP242, Chrysler 8.25" rear. SOLD
1981 AMC Eagle Wagon-As Seen on TV Lost In Transmission
2000 Ford E350
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Thanks for the input nitro,
I don't wanna things half-way, but by the time this B8 dies, I'll have the funds to put a proper BP in it and do it right. The cost of the oil is no issue at all here, it's all this prepping that strangles.J-S
'93L "Pepestiva" - 160 miles old Road Slave
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Originally posted by Eaglefreek View PostI put synthetic oil in my Festiva when I got it. It had 218K miles when I changed the oil to synthetic. No leaks and no puffs. It did quiet down if not eliminate the tick I had on start up.
Festi mileage high 200's) I used the oil made for older engines. No problems, leaks have not started, it quieted a click that was there, and the engine runs cooler. This came in handy during a hose failure when I was in the middle of nowhere w/o my duct tape. I change my oil once a year and have it analyized to be sure the additive package is still up to snuff. One thing people over look is filters, a very good air and oil filter is vital! Syns for filters is also the only way to go, you can save an engine with good filters and ruin one with a cheap one.
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Not to hack the thread, but what about a brand new rebuild on a B6T engine? Would synthetic oil prove a better choice, or is standard oil better to break the engine in?In love with a MadScientist!:thumbright:
There's a fine line between breathtaking ingenuity and "That's the stupidest thing I've ever seen!"
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