Exactly as title says
Any suggestions are appreciated
1992 white L, Bp, American racing 13's, stock trans.
1991 White L, BP/F5MR, protege header, full aspire swap with gr2's, seats, and sway bar, 15" konig's, short throw, escort console.
1991 blue L, 5 speed.
1988 red L-plus-all stock.
out the top disconnect everything heater core hoses, radiator hose, remove radiator and fan and remove battery and tray. unplug everything of coarse and remove all mount nuts and completely remove passenger mount then hoist them both right out watch the rear tranny mount so it doesn't catch steering rack and master cylinder
Or if you have a dolly and several jacks but no hoist, you can lower the engine and trans on to the dolly and jack the body up off of it. Then roll the new unit under, lower the car on to it and jack it into place. I did this alone but it would have been easier with some help. I have changed two engines this way with no problem. You have to jack the front up about 45 degrees, so be extra careful if you do this.
If you do it this way you will have to leave the drivers side motor mounts in place and remove the front and rear bolts that support the bar that goes under the transmission. (You also have to lower the front sway bar.) You must be very careful with the different jacks so as to keep the unit as level as possible as it drops down and goes up.
It's easier from the top if you have a hoist. One time I rented a hoist and did one that way.
flip it like Neanderpaul did it.... I think he has that on YOUTUBE somewhere...
Andrew Walker
Current Daily Driver:
89 Nissan D21 SE V6 5 speed 4x4
Projects in the works:
84 Mercedes Benz 300D(T)(Baby) currently awaiting transmission transplant/ full on restoration
1992 white L, Bp, American racing 13's, stock trans.
1991 White L, BP/F5MR, protege header, full aspire swap with gr2's, seats, and sway bar, 15" konig's, short throw, escort console.
1991 blue L, 5 speed.
1988 red L-plus-all stock.
I wouldn't recommend taking the engine out the bottom if you live in a "rust" area. The crossmember bolts get really rusted and if you try to remove them using a big wrench, you can twist them off and then you have a mess.
well the car is going too the crusher after it comes out so hurting it isnt a problem just wanna get it out fast and salvage as many parts as possible
1992 white L, Bp, American racing 13's, stock trans.
1991 White L, BP/F5MR, protege header, full aspire swap with gr2's, seats, and sway bar, 15" konig's, short throw, escort console.
1991 blue L, 5 speed.
1988 red L-plus-all stock.
I suspect RUST - These cars are paper thin and once the rust starts, it doesn't take too long before they won't pass inspection (for the states that have inspection). Fixing rust get pretty cost prohibitive really quick.
You guessed it!! Trust me it's makes me sick too crush it but the city is comin down on me and there's no floorboard left lol!!!
1992 white L, Bp, American racing 13's, stock trans.
1991 White L, BP/F5MR, protege header, full aspire swap with gr2's, seats, and sway bar, 15" konig's, short throw, escort console.
1991 blue L, 5 speed.
1988 red L-plus-all stock.
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