Festy not running.

[sc72]

91 efi, hears the story, we took two cars 1 auto and 1 stick, removed all parts from both cars that are involved in changing the auto car to a stick shift, ecu, wire harness and switches,etc, this is were i am at this point, engine trans and all components, the fuel pump does not have power so the car will not run unless you jump the starter and use carb cleaner or starting fluid and yup it will run but not with out help, as i'm wrighting this i'm woundering could it be the three fusable links. OK so any thoughts of were i may have gone wrong, or how to fix this. Thanks

[nitrofarm]

How do you "Know" the FP doesn't have power?
Why are you jumping the starter solenoid?
Doesn't crank @ the key?
Do you have any schematics & a test light/continuity tester?
Need more info.......Thx, Thomas

[sc72]

Yup i figured i would leave a few things out,

How do you "know" the FP has no power, It's not making any noise and we checked to see if there was 12 volts present, nope no power.

When the key is turned on we have dash lights but the starter will not engage.

No does not crank with the key.

No schematic, but yes we do have a test light and a multi meter.

[jbuck1975]

Is ALL the distributer wires connected? Move different wires around like battery wires etc

[shadetree]

Is the clutch switch connected ? Fuel pump relay have power?

[GenevaDirt]

Yup i figured i would leave a few things out,

How do you "know" the FP has no power, It's not making any noise and we checked to see if there was 12 volts present, nope no power.

When the key is turned on we have dash lights but the starter will not engage.

No does not crank with the key.

No schematic, but yes we do have a test light and a multi meter.

if you have dash lights and head lights but nothing at all happens when you turn the key....check the middle fusible link

[wybnrml]

My guess is it has something to do with the Park/Neutral Switch. I would follow the steps in ejp2fast article, that should get it running.

Wiring for backup lights and neutral switch: See farther below for 4 spd transmission wiring.
You’ll have the automatic wiring that stays with the car, and they are color coded as such: The back-up light switch wiring is BLK/YEL and RED/YEL and the neutral switch is BLK/BLU and BLK/RED. The 5 spd back up light and neutral switch connectors do not just plug in… you need to splice them. On the automatic tranny when it is out, I cut the quick disconnect wires 4 inches back on the transmission side, so on my 5 spd I still could disconnect the wires if I needed to (see picture below). On the 5 spd transmission, the back-up light switch is below the clutch release lever (and also under the battery) on the left (drivers) side.. The neutral switch is on the right side of the transmission below the CV axle. It does not matter how you wire these in, as they only close the circuit for continuity. Here is the picture of the splicing into the back-up lights. Notice I have a RED wire that acts as a jumper from the BLK/BLU to the BLK/RED for continuity for the neutral switch. (Car won’t start as car thinks the car is in any other position than park or neutral with discontinuity). If my neutral switch wasn’t messed up, and was hooked up where this RED wire is, the car won’t start unless you had it in neutral.

[sc72]

Jbuck1975, i will re check the wires,

shadetree, yes clutch switch is connected, will start at FP and work backwards from there.

GenevaDirt, that was also my thoughts, i have a spare set of long shank fuses i'll put in tomorrow.

wybnrml, thanks for digging into this for us, i will go over the wiring in the morning. right now it's time for supper and some sleep.

i'll get back on tomorrow with some results. Thanks for the help.

[GenevaDirt]

one more thing...you are pushing in the clutch pedal when you are turning the key....right....lol

[nitrofarm]

Some good suggestions have been mentioned. Also on a side note the fuel pump should never run with just key on. You have to be in "START" or "RUN" postions of the ignition switch. Without a schematic its gonna make it a little tougher on you but it sounds like you'll get it.

[nitrofarm]

My guess is it has something to do with the Park/Neutral Switch. I would follow the steps in ejp2fast article, that should get it running.

Wait I thought he said he cannibalized the harness from the stick car? If thats so,this wouldn't apply right? That post was for a person who put a stick in an auto that still had the auto harness right? Sounds like he has the stick harness in place of the auto......
Some good suggestions have been mentioned. Also on a side note the fuel pump should never run with just key on. You have to be in "START" or "RUN" positions of the ignition switch.And even then if the VAF doesn't sense air movement the FP wont run. So don't just assume the FP isn't working properly. Thats why I asked how you knew. Without a schematic its gonna make it a little tougher on you but it sounds like you'll get it. It just sounds like a Clutch Interlock or Neutral safety switch maybe not working. But like someone mentioned check the "Main" fuessable link for power w/test light. This one would keep you from getting the starter to crank.

[nitrofarm]

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=20127
You can see some of the wiring here...hope this helps

[sc72]

one more thing...you are pushing in the clutch pedal when you are turning the key....right....lol

umm i ah um is that important. j/k

[JohnGunn]

the fuel pump does not have power so the car will not run unless you jump the starter and use carb cleaner or starting fluid

Power to both the starter solenoid and, the fuel pump relay at start up, comes from the same circuit. (There is a switch in the VAF meter to the fuel pump relay, but it is not active until after the engine starts.)

Here are the components of the failing circuit:

1. Battery.
2. "Main" fusible link.
3. Ignition switch.
4. Clutch interlock switch.
(At this point the circuit branches.)
5. One branch goes to the starter solenoid.
6. One branch goes to power the fuel pump relay.

This means that you don't need to worry about the VAF meter, or bother to test for power to the fuel pump relay. Assuming you have a good starter motor with a good solenoid, the turning over of the engine will signal that circuit is powered. Trace that circuit until you find the place where it is broken.

Just to be sure you know, here is what you have to do to activate that circuit in a manual Festiva.

1. Clutch pedal depressed and held while...
2. Ignition switch turned to the start position.

Good luck.

John Gunn
Coronado, CA