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  • #16
    hopefully this evening I will have time to check timing belt and maybe do a compression check.

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    • #17
      I was able to sneak out to garage and do a quick compression test. cyls. 1&2 both hit the gauge with about 120psi, cyls 3 & 4 are the losers of the group they both put no effort into the test at all and failed with 25 psi each. If my limited knowledge serves me right I think I should be looking for a head gasket failure? Does that sound kinda right to anyone else?

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      • #18
        Sound like a head gasket issue to me as well. However my Hyundai I had was reading 0 because it had a hole in a piston and it still ran... Like crap but it did run.
        The normal is not always normal... MOST is not ALL... And any job can be hard if you don't have the right tools!!!

        My Fleet:
        89 L 4spd (Daily Driver(if it isn't broke down)) "Spanky"

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Crankworm View Post
          I was able to sneak out to garage and do a quick compression test. cyls. 1&2 both hit the gauge with about 120psi, cyls 3 & 4 are the losers of the group they both put no effort into the test at all and failed with 25 psi each. If my limited knowledge serves me right I think I should be looking for a head gasket failure? Does that sound kinda right to anyone else?
          Well I would still check the timing belt cuz if its out of time.Valves will be open when they shoild be closed & visa versa.
          Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
          Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
          Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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          • #20
            whew this is getting to be a pain in the side. Is there an easy way to check if the timing belt has jumped besides taking the cover off and lining everything up?

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            • #21
              It sounds like a lot of work but just break out the ratchet and get it done.

              You have a Service Manual or Haynes to go by?
              -Zack
              Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub

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              • #22
                yup have a haynes book I guess I will get to it

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                • #23
                  It took me a while but I managed to get to the timing belt. The belt didn't jump and the timing marks all line up. I set up my compression gauge on cyl 3 to pressurize the cylinder like you would to work on valves and rotated the engine. First air came out the intake, then the exhaust, and eventually lo and behold there was air leaking out of cyl. 4 It will probably have to wait til this weekend but I guess I'm gonna be pulling a head.

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                  • #24
                    I had similar symptoms on my original 1990 back in 2004..
                    Everything was spinning OK, fuel ok etc. Apparently all the sparking was
                    going on at exactly the wrong time. Did not backfire of pop once as I
                    turned the engine over.
                    When I removed the crankshaft timing gear, I noticed that the key was
                    notched about 3/4 of the length on one corner.
                    The key looked like someone took a spoon to one corner and smoothly scooped it off (about 1/16" deep) for about 3/4 of the way up. The remaining 1/4 of the length has sharp 90 degree edges.
                    If I remember correctly the engine had about 240,000 on it.
                    It was either replace the crank or the engine. I fixed by replacing with a used
                    engine that was given to me.
                    Hope that is not your problem.
                    Last edited by 1990new; 04-25-2011, 02:32 PM. Reason: spelling, grammar, added final comment.

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by Crankworm View Post
                      It took me a while but I managed to get to the timing belt. The belt didn't jump and the timing marks all line up. I set up my compression gauge on cyl 3 to pressurize the cylinder like you would to work on valves and rotated the engine. First air came out the intake, then the exhaust, and eventually lo and behold there was air leaking out of cyl. 4 It will probably have to wait til this weekend but I guess I'm gonna be pulling a head.
                      Man sorry to hear the news Crankworm. A head gasket @ 126k is a little odd. But what doesnt kill us it makes us stronger Maybe you can get on craigslist & ebay & do some shopping. I know when pulling a head,you can get bogged down. In all the other things that can be replaced during the rebuild. And before you know it you've spent way more money than you you wanted. I just found an engine and trans for $200.00 on craigslist. The guy swears it ran fine but the tranny was making noise. I figured it cant hurt for $200 right? So I brought it home.That might be an option you want to pursue? A used motor might be the way to go? jus a thought. But on a positive note. A head gasket isnt the end of the world. Lets just hope thats all it is. Got my fingers crossed Crankworm !
                      Last edited by nitrofarm; 04-25-2011, 03:25 PM.
                      Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                      Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                      Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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                      • #26
                        Thanks for the help guys I will keep ya updated as I go. I'm gonna try hard no to get bogged down, only gonna do the bare minimum to replace the head gasket. gonna try to leave the intake and exhaust manifolds on the head, and not worry about anything else. Gotta keep it cheap.

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                        • #27
                          pull the exhaust manifold off the head and leave it attached to the downpipe. don't remove the dizzy. you'll need a GOOD torque wrench and a 12pt 12mm socket to remove and install the head bolts.
                          Trees aren't kind to me...

                          currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                          94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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                          • #28
                            Thanks for the tips festyboy, I've got the sockets and the torque wrench. I assume that the exhaust manifold is easier to remove then the downpipe? My exhaust system is sketchy at best I may have to post a pic sometime so everyone came laugh(exhaust repair tape underneath and a cherry bomb sticking out the rear of the car and yes it does have a wire coat hanger holding it all up). wasn't planing on taking the distributor off, I wish I could fix the oil leak but it looks like its coming off of the crankseal or the oil pan and I am already sick of working on this POS.

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                            • #29
                              Finally got the head off, cylinders 3 and 4 both have burnt exhaust valves. does anyone know how this may have happened? A mechanic friend said he hasn't seen em in years and fuel injection engines don't generally have a problem like this.
                              Last edited by Crankworm; 05-01-2011, 08:01 PM. Reason: spelling

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                              • #30
                                timing was off at one point causing spiked cylinder pressures and temps. when the exhaust valve opens, all that heat rushes past the lip of the valve and starts to melt it.
                                Trees aren't kind to me...

                                currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                                94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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