Lost 5 mpg this last go around

[jbuck1975]

Some how I lost 5mpg. Went the same route. Same weight in car same speed driving habits same. Ran engine when I got home to look for fuel leaking. Didn't find dripping. But I noticed some wetness around the disrupted. Can I be leaking fuel out of that area?

[Pu241]

Whats a "disrupted"?

A lot depends on the accuracy of your fill ups and the total miles on the tank.
2 and 3 gallon fill-ups or 100 to 150 miles between fill up will give poor MPG results.
Weight really only matters for city driving.

Looking over you fuelly data, what was the temperature in your area during the previous tank verses this one.

[jbuck1975]

300 miles both fill ups. Highway both. Same temp. Wetness around the distribution cap. Spelling wrong

[Pu241]

Wetness around the distribution cap. Spelling wrong

Excited engine or the "o" ring seal on the end of the distributor is leaking allowing engine oil to pass.

[TominMO]

What's an "excited engine"?

When my Aspire's distributor o-ring was leaking, the oil came out at the base of the disty where it mates up with the block, not at the base of the cap. So I'm thinking it might not be oil there. Jbuck, is it oil or water or what?

[jbuck1975]

Not sure what it is. But yeah at the base of it

[TominMO]

Not sure what it is. But yeah at the base of it

It's most likely the o-ring then. It's an easy replacement job.
O-ring part #: 72222, at either Carquest or NAPA. Under $2.
1. Put a mark, with a permanent marker or something, across the disty base and the block, so you can line it up again when re-installing the disty.
2. Pull the cap, and notice which way the rotor is pointing, again so you can align it the same way when re-installing. I like to look at it from the driver's fender and relate the rotor's direction to the hour hand on a clock.
3. Undo the disty's electrical connectors. Remove the two 12mm bolts that hold the disty on. Then yank that sucker outta there.
3.5. Use this opportunity to clean the block, tranny, and disty.
4. Remove old o-ring, which is most likely very brittle. Install new one.
5. Put it all back together. Probably a half-hour job, including the cleaning.

[200KGPGTP]

I didn't even remove the wires, or mark anything for that matter. It would've been pretty hard to put it upside down. Just make sure you don't move the rotor on the head, and don't clean the bolt bus on the dist, the grime is what I used to put it EXACTLY back where it was

[200KGPGTP]

I didn't even remove the wires, or mark anything for that matter. It would've been pretty hard to put it upside down. Just make sure you don't move the rotor on the head, and don't clean the bolt bus on the dist, the grime is what I used to put it EXACTLY back where it was

And it didn't take me any more than 10 minutes LOL

[TominMO]

Sure, but faster isn't always better. Ask any woman!

Edit: except nuns.

[nitrofarm]

[QUOTE=TominMO;411613]Sure, but faster isn't always better. Ask any woman!

Just don't ask an "wet" woman. Ask an "excited" one.

[jbuck1975]

Thinking I need ALL NEW seals and gaskets. How many seals and gaskets are there. How much would they all cost?

[TominMO]

Thinking I need ALL NEW seals and gaskets. How many seals and gaskets are there. How much would they all cost?

First, stick a bottle of seal renewer in with your oil during the next change. That may stop or slow leaks by re-moistening seals that have dried out some. But do the disty seal swap anyway, and the valve cover gasket too if it's obviously leaking, which is a common (and big) leak point. Wash the engine about 100 miles after the oil change, to give the seal conditioner time to work and to be able to check for fresh leaking. Then go from there.

[WmWatt]

Uh, I've heard that faster is better for women in the oldest profession.

[TominMO]

Uh, I've heard that faster is better for women in the oldest profession.

Time = money.