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  • CV Boots again

    I just bought my first Festiva ($100) and it needed a clutch. While replacing the clutch I noticed that both of the outer CV boots were bad so I decided to replace them. I removed the axle from just the wheel end and can not figure out how to get the joint off without pulling it out of the tranny and tearing the whole thing apart. Is the joint just press fit on? Or is there some type of super secret method of getting it off. I called the ford dealer and would you believe the BS answer they gave me...."We don't give advise to someone working on their own car due to liability reasons." They said I might sue them if i did something wrong. WHAT A LOAD OF BS!!! This is in the communist state of Hawaii.
    Thanks for any help.
    Keith

  • #2
    Do mean what's holding the halfshaft to the tranny? It just takes some prying to get it apart. As far as the the joint there's a clip that holds it together.. that's all I remember from the chilton's manual. Autozone has it online for the howto overhaul the aspire's... same thing if you needing a tutorial.
    91 rusty Festiva 260k

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    • #3
      No, I am talking about the outer joint being able to be removed from the axle so I can replace the outer boot.

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      • #4
        since nobody seems to like the autozone website :roll: .. here ya go.

        CV-JOINTS OVERHAUL

        See Figures 6 through 19

        On all halfshafts, the outboard CV-joint (Birfield-type) is permanently fitted onto the halfshaft and cannot be removed. To replace the outboard CV-joint boot, the inner CV-joint (Tri-pot-type) must first be removed. If a boot has failed due to age or wear, all boots should be replaced at the same time.

        Raise and safely support the vehicle.

        Remove the halfshaft from the vehicle and support the assembly in a vise with protective or soft jaws.

        Remove the large boot clamp from the inboard CV-joint and roll the boot back over the shaft.

        Matchmark the outer race, halfshaft and Tri-pot bearing for reassembly using paint or marker. Do not use a punch or chisel.

        Remove the wire ring bearing retainer from inside the outer race/housing and remove the outer

        race.

        Matchmark the Tri-pot bearing and halfshaft. Remove the bearing snapring, then remove the bearing from the halfshaft. It may be necessary to drive the bearing off the shaft with a brass drift.

        Remove the small clamp and the inboard CV-joint boot from the halfshaft.

        Test the CV-joint grease for contamination by rubbing a small amount between 2 fingers. If a gritty feeling is present, the grease is contaminated and the CV-joint must be disassembled and thoroughly cleaned and inspected before adding new grease.

        To remove the outboard CV-joint boot, remove the dynamic damper if applicable (right-hand halfshaft only), then remove the boot clamps and slide the boot off of the shaft from the inboard side. If the outboard boot is to be reused, wrap tape around the shaft splines to protect the boot during removal.

        On vehicles equipped with ABS brakes, the wheel speed sensor can be driven off the outboard CV-joint with a hammer and chisel if the joint is to be replaced.

        Do not remove the anti-lock sensor ring if it does not need to be replaced. If the sensor ring must be removed, replace with a new sensor ring.


        Fig. 6: Check the CV-boot for wear




        Fig. 7: Removing the outer band from the CV-boot




        Fig. 8: Removing the inner band from the CV-boot




        Fig. 9: Removing the CV-boot from the joint housing




        Fig. 10: Clean the CV-joint housing prior to removing the boot




        Fig. 11: Removing the CV-joint housing assembly




        Fig. 12: Removing the CV-joint




        Fig. 13: Inspecting the CV-joint housing




        Fig. 14: Removing the CV-joint outer snapring




        Fig. 15: Checking the CV-joint snapring for wear




        Fig. 16: CV-joint snapring (typical)




        Fig. 17: Removing the CV-joint assembly




        Fig. 18: Removing the CV-joint inner snapring




        To install:

        If not already installed, wrap smooth electrical tape around the halfshaft spline to protect and ease the installation of the CV-joint boot(s). Slide the clamps and the outboard boot onto the shaft.

        Before positioning the boot over the CV-joint, pack the CV-joint and boot with grease. Be sure to use all of the grease in the pouch supplied with the boot kit.

        Fit the boot into place on the CV-joint, making sure it is fully seated in the grooves in the shaft and outer race. Insert a suitable tool between the boot and the outer bearing race to allow trapped air to escape from the boot.


        Fig. 19: Installing the CV-joint assembly (typical)



        Install the boot clamps, wrapping them around the boots in the opposite direction of normal (forward) halfshaft rotation. Pull the clamps tight with a suitable tool and bend the locking tabs to secure in position.

        After installing the outboard CV-joint boot, if applicable, install the dynamic damper onto the halfshaft at a distance of 18.99-19.27 in. (482.5-489.5mm) from the outboard end of the halfshaft. Measure this distance with the outboard CV-joint fully pushed onto the halfshaft.

        The dynamic damper is only used on the right-hand halfshaft assembly.

        Fit the inboard CV-joint boot and clamps onto the halfshaft. Remove the tape from the halfshaft splines.

        Install the Tri-pot assembly on the halfshaft with the matchmarks aligned. Install the Tri-pot retaining ring.

        Fill the CV-joint outer race with 3.5 oz. (100g) of high temperature CV-joint grease. Install the outer race over the Tri-pot joint with the matchmarks aligned and install the wire ring bearing retainer.

        Fit the boot into place on the CV-joint, making sure it is fully seated in the grooves in the shaft and outer race. The distance between the CV-joint boot clamp grooves will measure about 3.5 in. (90mm).

        Insert a suitable tool between the boot and the outer bearing race to allow trapped air to escape from the boot.

        Install the boot clamps, wrapping them around the boots in the opposite direction of normal (forward) halfshaft rotation. Pull the clamps tight with a suitable tool and bend the locking tabs to secure in position.

        Work the CV-joint through its full range of travel at various angles. The joint should flex, extend and compress smoothly. Wipe away any excess grease.

        If necessary, carefully drive or press the wheel speed sensor onto the CV-joint.

        Install the halfshaft into the vehicle.

        Lower the vehicle.

        Check the transaxle fluid level, and add fluid if required.

        Road test and check for proper operation of the halfshaft assemblies.
        91 rusty Festiva 260k

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        • #5
          Thanks eric. I had figured I had to remove the whole shaft and take off the inboard joint to replace the outboard boot but was hoping there was a different way.

          There is no info I could find on the autozone site that was suggested. They didn't list the Festiva nor Kia.
          Thanks again,
          Keith

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          • #6
            That is totally wrong for festiva axles and all other axles I have worked on. I have replaced a outside cv boot on a festiva without removing the axle from the vehicle. Remove the outside joint from the steering knuckle, hold the shaft that goes to the inside joint, and hit the inside lip of the outside joint with a hammer. It should fall on to the floor, and installation is the reverse. The joint is held on by the same style clip that holds the axle in the transmission.
            The Festiva Store
            Specializing in restoration, tuning and custom parts.

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            • #7
              Noname is right. The outer joint is on splines. You can remove the outer knuckle as he said. I use a brass punch so not to mark anything up.
              Be sure to get all the grease and dirt out. If you use kerosene or other solvent, make sure to finish up with brakecleen to remove any residual solvent that could break down the new grease. Check inside the joint for discoloration/bluing or gouges in the grooves around the ball bearings. That will indicate the joint got hot and dry of grease and should be replaced.
              '89L 110k mi. BP/G swapped
              '90LX 68k mi. wrecked 12/14 RIP
              '90 F250 4X4 108K mi.
              '13 Kia Rio 5 LX 70k mi.
              '18 Kia Soul 40k mi. Daily
              '64 Studebaker Gran Turismo Hawk
              '66 International Harvester pickup

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              • #8
                Thanks guys but I already figured out I could do it that way. I knew there had to be a way and I just gave it a good whack with the hammer. Already done and back together. Having done frame up restorations on cars and many rebuilds I learned a long time ago that manuals are not always right. Thanks anyways.

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                • #9
                  *BUMP*

                  Hey everyone!

                  Im currently trying to remove the passengers side CV joint on my 1999 Ford Festiva GLXi Manual. The bearing had disintegrated on the outer joint. I have everything off but can't seem to get the bearing off the shaft? Is there a clip that needs to be removed as the bearing doesn't seem seized or stuck.

                  Thanks and greatly appreciate the help!

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                  • #10
                    As Eric Smith wrote above it seems both boots have to come off the inner end. See post #4 above. Good luck.
                    Last edited by WmWatt; 09-30-2019, 07:26 AM.
                    Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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