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Coolant Leak near belt

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  • #16
    I just got my new water pump from NAPA/PS&D auto parts store and it was $41.19 + tax. Gonna try and change it.

    So I have to take of the timing belt? And the cranks pulley? Right? Is there chance of ruining the timing because I dont have a timing light so if I do mess it up i'm gonna be screwed.
    thanks.....

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    • #17
      you only need a timing light if you take off the distributor, which you won't need to touch the distributor to change the water pump, so a timing light is not needed

      1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
      1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
      2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor

      1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)

      If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?

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      • #18
        thats good.....

        So do I have to do before I start pulling everything, so that I dont mess up my timing?
        Any other steps I should do before I start digging into this water pump change?

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        • #19
          It sounds like your new to working on a car, I'd recommend getting a Haynes manual for step by step instructions, it could help you out a lot and help you ensure you get the timing belt back on correctly

          1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
          1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
          2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor

          1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)

          If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?

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          • #20
            don't worry about your timing as you dont' have to touch anything that would change your timing (aside from being a tooth or two off when putting the belt on). there's a write up i did a while ago about replacing the pump. i'll look it up!
            Post#4 there you go!!
            Trees aren't kind to me...

            currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
            94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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            • #21
              thank you to everyone........

              Here I go I will let you guys know how it wen when I get done. Or if I run into some gremlins I will post up the problem and situation. Thanks again fellas.

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              • #22
                Yea dont have money for a haynes manual I had a hardtime getting the funds to buy my $40 water pump Lol. But I figure thats why we have this forum to suffice as an alternative to having a hayne manual or of the equal. thank you.

                and thanks for pointing out the write up too.

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                • #23
                  Your in luck, If you get me an address I'd be happy to send you the extra one I have for the shipping cost. I know how usefull they are!!!!
                  1992 white L, Bp, American racing 13's, stock trans.
                  1991 White L, BP/F5MR, protege header, full aspire swap with gr2's, seats, and sway bar, 15" konig's, short throw, escort console.
                  1991 blue L, 5 speed.
                  1988 red L-plus-all stock.

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                  • #24
                    FYI, don't trust the wiring diagrams in the Haynes manuals (they're not correct on several pages).
                    Trees aren't kind to me...

                    currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                    94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by 91mcnasty View Post
                      Your in luck, If you get me an address I'd be happy to send you the extra one I have for the shipping cost. I know how usefull they are!!!!
                      Sure that would be awesome bro.......
                      check your pm, gonna do it. thank you!

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                      • #26
                        FYI........ just got the old water pump off and the shaft is loose and I can wiggle it back n forth a lil bit. Looks pretty ruff, and I can see where theres some dried up coolant oxidation around the water pump shaft. So I am pretty certain that it was the problem and it was causing my coolant leak.

                        Do I need to put some gasket sealant or anything on the new water pump?

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by dznutts View Post
                          FYI........ just got the old water pump off and the shaft is loose and I can wiggle it back n forth a lil bit. Looks pretty ruff, and I can see where theres some dried up coolant oxidation around the water pump shaft. So I am pretty certain that it was the problem and it was causing my coolant leak.

                          Do I need to put some gasket sealant or anything on the new water pump?
                          Yep. I always use the red high temp RTV silicone gasket sealer. Make sure to clean the old gasket off the engine block.
                          89L build thread http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=36422

                          1996 subaru impreza AWD 5 speed, EJ18

                          Post your festiva pics and vids here: www.movingviolationz.com
                          My site: 20tessa.sytes.net

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                          • #28
                            yup thanks man... now back to it.

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                            • #29
                              OK I have a little, maybe 3/4-1 inch size o-ring and I cant see where it goes. It came in the new water pump box with the other two gasket. I looked on both of the water pumps and I do not see were it needs to go!

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                              • #30
                                ^^^

                                Originally posted by link5186 View Post
                                The o-ring is located on the end of the heater core return hard line where it pushes into the side of the spout where your lower radiator hose hooks up.
                                Like Link says

                                It goes on the end of the metal tube located under the exhaust manifold
                                If a hammer doesn't fix it you have an electrical problem




                                WWZD
                                Zulu Ministries

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