p5 brake swap

[Justin2129]

find something of about the same thickness as the rotor and put it in there? or even just use the rotor. the rotors arent bolted on, theyre just held on by the caliper and the wheel, so when you take the calipers off, theyre loose

i just really think it's gonna be hard to re-route the ebrake cable

[neanderpaul]

Lol, simultaneous same idea posting! :lol:

[Justin2129]

Could we put and secure something a little bit thicker than the rotor in the gap of the pads? Then remove it and reinstall?

lol same idea @ the same time

[Justin2129]

Lol, simultaneous same idea posting! :lol:

x2!!! hahaha

[Damkid]

why not just use the rotor itself? take the rotor off the hub, put it in the caliper, turn the caliper as needed to get the bleeder upwards, then re-install, i see no reason why that wouldn't work, then you can keep your ebrake hooked properly

[Damkid]

:lol: yup, i guess i was typing as you guys posted as well :lol:

[Justin2129]

haha that must be the answer if all 3 of us thought of it at once :p

one more question though....if the rear calipers are the problem, shouldnt the fronts be solid?

[Damkid]

what i would do, is fix the known problems first


for example: I had ran my festiva once without the alternator belt, i had a few lights come on in my instrument cluster which was weird cause it wasn't the charge light either, but instead of looking into why i had lights on, i put a belt on and it fixed the light problem

What i'm trying to say is, once the rears are bled and working properly, maybe it'll fix the fronts as well

If there's too much air in the rears, i would assume the pedal would still go to the floor even though the fronts are just fine

[Justin2129]

awesome...sounds like we have a solid plan for tomorrow then thanks for your help man

[Damkid]

not a problem, i just hope you get it all fixed up so i can hear how much of an improvement the brake are over stock, that way i know what i get to look forward to lol

[Justin2129]

not a problem, i just hope you get it all fixed up so i can hear how much of an improvement the brake are over stock, that way i know what i get to look forward to lol

even if they performed the same as the stock brakes, the things look BEAST behind the rims...the looks alone almost make it worth the swap

Use your finger. LMAO

A wooden block sandwiched between the pads would be perfect. BTW that is a really good idea to dismount the caliper.

lol! and yeah WAY easier than swapping sides and re-routing the e-brake. it's almost perfect the way it is right now

[Justin2129]

here's a sneak peak haha

old:


new:

[Damkid]

I agree, those new brakes are sexy as hell :thumbright:

[gorgonheimer]

Bleeders must face up. 1x4 will work great to flip your calipers up for bleeding. If p-brake cables are a problem try flipping brakets and everything from left to right. Maybe some pictures could help figure out those p-brake cables. Getting the bleeders up temporarily will fix your problem, but u will have same issue next time u service the brakes.

[htchbck]

As to the question of "does side matter even if the hoses aren't stretched?"

The answer is yes, if the bleeders are pointing down you will never get all the air out. Period.

As to the question of the fronts being solid, if the backs have huge air bubbles, nothing will feel solid. Fix that first, then if there are more problems just go from there.

Also:

My guess would be that the brake lines are narrow making it easier for fluid to push the air through unlike calipers where there's a pocket of fluid where air can move more freely and not go where you want it to

it'd be like trying to drain air out of the bottom of a half full cup of water

Absolutely correct sir, especially the analogy of draining air out of a water cup